KiwiRS4T

Yes that will do it. if you are running it with a manual box you can always swap it for a plug in Link later.

I'm with Shoota77 Measure your bores and if they are within tolerances put your engine back together with rings and bearings if necessary (or if you're keen a set of forged pistons and a balance) and it will probably go for years. I have an RB30 with a stock bottom end in my Stagea and it is heaps better than the original RB25 and really torquey but its not making 370awkw. You would want a fully forged and balanced RB30 to see a significant improvement on your RB26 and probably end up spending a minimum $10k or easily double that depending on how carried away you get. Your current setup sounds pretty good and you could fairly easily get a few more KW if you really want.

Mine is between the intercooler and radiator but the intercooler is quite low and half the oil cooler sticks out above the intercooler. Also I have an air diverter to force the air through the coolers (intercooler, oil cooler, radiator and aircond).

There is a fair bit of work fitting the sump adapter - drilling and tapping and grinding. A couple of bell housing boltholes will not line up and you have the choice of welding up the old ones and drilling and tapping new ones or just leaving them out.

Just drill and tap a hole. I think I'll follow GTSBoy's example and put it in the turbo as its too tight to get into the manifold before the turbo and I don't want it after the turbo.

Um you are using 4wd all the time - basically 95% rear bias. If you push the lock button it locks in 50/50 only at low speeds -its for getting out of a wet paddock or snow but once you get over about 20km/hr I think it is the Attessa takes over again. It will feel a bit clunky if you turn it on but especially if all your tyres do not have the same rolling diameter.

Wow some flash cars there. Mine looks worse now that when I bought it - needs the rust under the mirrors repair! But the cars above look so much better than boring old falcadores or camrys.

Read the thread - the answers are there. Are your restrictors small enough (I run 2 x 1.0mm). Forget the "head drain" you need to vent the sump. Spend half an hour reading at least the last third of this thread.

Looks like it! Have you got an aftermarket steering wheel?

Mine is a 1996 S1 with no tiptronic - plate says RE4R01A

That right angle turn won't be helping but looks like a nightmare to change or even work on. Try the mods as suggested by Kyle.

Annually or 20,000+ km should be fine but I end up changing it abut every 6 months (10 - 15,000km). I get Nismo filters for $30.

I have a Garrett GT3540R but would look into the Precision or Forced Performance range if replacing.

Motul Chrono 300V 10W40

My air cond is pretty chilly - got it regassed after the new engine went in. Do you have an automotive aircond shop in your town (rather than a sparky who does it as a sideline)? All Nissans seem to have the same system and a competent shop should be able to get it working for you.

Running in should be completed on the dyno with the initial tune and after an oil change you should be good to boost and drive normally (just watching for leaks and monitoring temps and oil pressure). Then another tune when you have about 10K on it.

What year is your car? Transmission type should be on the blue makers plate on the firewall.

Never heard of the brand that you quote but people do use a variety of spark boosters with success . My own preference would be replacement coils like these: http://www.aemelectronics.com/high-output-igbt-inductive-smart-coil-1240 LS1 s seem to be popular in Aus.

In New Zealand Toyota dealers have started selling Motul products under the TRD (Toyota Racing Development) brand. I got Motul RBF600 brake fluid for about $20. It is genuine Motul - the label says TRD Sport Brake Fluid by Motul and says made in France by Motul and distributed by TRD Asia so maybe you could check out your local Toyota Dealer. They also sell the Motul racing synthetic oils.

Re pics just use something like photobucket.com

Lots of things it could be but for starters 1. many owners find if you are getting low in the tank and park on a very cambered road the pick-up in the tank is left high and dry 2. pump could be on the way out (but check filter in engine bay first).

Well you haven't supplied any context. Is your engine bog standard and if not what mods? Do you have a tunable ecu?

"Hi flow" is a loose term for a rebuilt turbo which may in fact be rebuilt to original specs or to produce a little or a lot more power. Hypergear can build to your requirements so an email or a phone call would be a good place to start.

OK just looked up the RB30 PDF and that says RB30E is 8.2:1 and the RB30ET 7.1:1 (although the exact figure would depend on what twin cam head you were using) but whatever that's going back a few years - today you would want better than 9:1 or even more if using E85

Impressive specifications! (should have got the crank collar from me though...ahem). I guess you will be looking for around 350awkw? Your skinny tyres (would be illegal over here) might save you but I would be looking to upgrade especially if you are going to drag it.