KiwiRS4T

Try asking on http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/I am sure there must be a more local clutch supplier for you.

Sounds like it. I have the (unknown) but HD single plate that came with the 33GTR gearbox that went into my Stagea - it wasn't new then and its done another 10,000km since and it doesn't slip with my RB30 and about 280awkw.

I changed my S1 brakes to GTT brakes with no issues. Later I put R32GTR brakes on the rear (essentially the same as GTT) and 330mm D2s on the front. I then put a BM57 master cylinder on which just means that with a larger area there is less pedal travel but more effort required. It would probably have been fine without the change.

Right here's one:http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-519855036.htm

Its both. My Bilsteins can be revalved - I presume your Teins can be too although I am not familiar with them. The Tein S Springs I got are a bit bumpy for the road but fine on the track so I put up with it. If your springs have part numbers still visible the dealer should be able to tell you the spring rate and compare with others. e.g. my springs Front Tein F-SIN78 -010311-HCC = 3.1kg/mm (165 lb/in) Rear Tein R-SIN79-010382-HCC =3.8kg/mm (172 lb/in)

Don't know what B6s are but the Bilsteins on my Stagea work fine with stock or aftermarket springs. Height is more determined by the Bilsteins than the springs (adjusted via a circlip on the grooves in the shock body).

Is that as in overtightened or not enough? Or some of each?

Saw a Stillen supercharged 370 a couple of weeks ago. Comes with the modified bonnet but you could adapt another bonnet scoop. No idea of cost but I doubt it would be cheap.

If you have a S1 Stagea fuse box is behind the coin tray (pull it right out)

Its not a computer problem its just a bad connection.

Interesting bag of parts! You need to decide how much power you want and buy parts to suit. If you want to stick with the side mount (you won't) you will be limited to about 200 - 220 awkw. With a decent return flow front mount you could make up to 240 -260kw. I guess you're not that wedded to a side mount since you were looking at a FF plenum. You may as well fit the 600 x300 that you have. First of all there are plenty of RS4T Stageas with the RB25DET for sale between $4000 - $5000 and that would be a better place to start but if you are determined to +T the one you have then: R33 turbo kit would be a good place to start. Look for some sidefeed injectors. Have you still got the ID1000s? I might be interested in swapping them for my 550 Deatscherks (good for more than 300kw) + cash Stock 65mm throttle body will be fine. 2 1/2in exhaust will be a limitation later but fine for basic turbo set up. I may know where there is a Series 1 turbo ecu (guy I gave it to sold his car without fitting it so may still have it). Actually so long as you have an auto ecu will be a problem - you will need something like a Greddy E-manage Good luck!

Disconnect the fuel line and turn the key on and observe the flow. If there is any hesitation you should probably pull the fuel pump out and clean the sock/filter. Also possible fuel pump on the way out! I've been running on F10 for three or more years now (Stagea RB25DET now RB30/25 DET). Cheap replacement (waste of time putting second hand pump in): http://www.trademe.c...n-519483710.htm

Get your wheels balanced - will become obvious if the rim is bent.

The problem with drilling out the drains is that you have to strip and clean the block. Putting the restrictors in is 2 minutes work and AU$20 from me or possibly cheaper elsewhere or you could make your own. As I said before I would put at least provision for a sump breather and if I had an engine out with the head off I would put rings and bearings in it.

2wd from NZ$3250 http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html

Yep its better to replace it at a time of your choosing rather than have it fail on a rainy day miles from home so you have to add the price of a tow truck to the job.

Pretty common apparently - happened to me a few times - initially just disconnected and reconnected the battery and they went ok for a while and then did it again and now they are fine. You could try taking the cluster out and waving a heat gun over the back of the board or get a small soldering iron and touch any dodgy looking ( I think "dry" is the term but I'm no sparky) joints.

I think the Tomei restrictors are 1.5mmYou should be fine. These problems generally only arise on the track because you don't spend a lot of time at high revs (6000+) on the road.

Quite. The argument about the reliability of the N1 pump is seperate from the question of do you need an upgraded pump and you probably don't.If you keep the stock pump and put the restrictors in hopefully your catch can will not fill with oil enough to need to drain it back into the sump. The hose from the sump is more to relieve pressure inside the sump (thus promoting the draining of oil back down from the head) and you would run it to the top of the catch can.

The reason you will replace the pump is not to increase flow but becasue your stocker is old and may fail. The DW200 should be fine.

Ok if your engine is already out that changes things a bit. The problem with drilling the block is that you need to completely strip it so that you can clean it properly afterwards. If you want to do that fine if not I wouldn't worry. Yes put restrictors in. The SK chart in the oil control thread says block one and put a 1.5 in the other - I would suggest 1.0mm in each (you can get them from me) Sump baffle kit is a good idea. If you can, drill and tap and plug a hole in the sump as high as possible on the inlet side so you can fit a breather later if you want / need. Head drain is a waste of time and space. Presumably you are going to do rings and bearings? And stick with your stock oil pump.

Does your small town have a hire centre? It would be good to get a micrometer to measure wear on the bores and out of round to see whether you are wasting your time rebuilding or not. I believe if you are going to replace the rod bolts (good idea) you need to rebore the big ends. Nothing wrong with plastigauge in my view .....some younger compatriots get sniffy about it but I think ideally you measure and then check with plastigauge if you want.

Probably none of the above. Just fit a catch can to your cam cover breathers and see what you collect in it and then reconsider. The stock pump will supply enough oil now and hopefully not too much! To do any of your suggestions is an engine out job - you may as well wait until you blow it up and then you can think again. If you really can drive sensibly and not get carried away it might hold together for ages.

I am tracking the 330mm D2s on my 1800kg Stagea and they pull up fine (well so did the GTT brakes) but they will do it time after time - no fade or other problems so far

Starter out? Driveshaft disconnected? Rear mount off? Big screwdriver - lever gently...