KiwiRS4T

If the fluid looks dirty/burnt get some new fully synthetic fluid (you'll need 10-12 litres).

I am happy to pay for specialists to do c/vs and boots.

Was your reservoir empty? If its the slave you"ll see fluid leaking. Fill the reservoir and watch it while someone pushes on the pedal (and look elsewhere on the line for leaks) Get a torch and look under the clutch pedal for interior leaks from the M/C and then under the bonnet.

e.g. Auto Gallery Yokohama gearsets (rebuilt boxes). yes there are upgraded synchro boxes available. I have one in my 32. made by auto gallery yokohama (Koizumi) it's a good box. i've used it for about 5 years with no drama. you can do a mix of the OS box and AGY bits. DJR81, they have their own double cone synchros. they also do various different close ratio gear sets too just like OS Giken. they do a nice transfer case overhaul too. <a name="content2"> ratio choice: version 1 １= ２,６１１　　　　　　　 ２=１,７３３　　　　　　　　　 ３=１,２８９　　　　　　　　　 ４=１,０００　　　　　　　　 ５ =０,７５２　　　　　　　　 OR (standard ratios I think?): １　３,２１４　 ２　１,９２5 ３　１,３０２　 ４　１,０００ 5　０,７５２　 They have some optional 5th gear choices too: 5 ０，８４２ 5 ０，８２６ 5 ０，８００ version 2 close ratio box is: １　１,９０３ ２　１,４７６ ３　１,１８６ ４　１,０００ ５ choice of the 3 above.

R32 & 33GTR R34 (6 sp Getrag) 1 3.214 3.827 2 1.925 2.360 3 1.302 1.685 4 1.000 1.312 5 0.752 1.000 6 0.793 Sorry won't keep the format - R32 and R33 GTR the same R34 in RH column.

LH Guard

I called the regas people for my Camry and they just gave me generic ones for $80 a pair. Need them for my Stagea now so I'll see if they have cheap replacements or regas mine.

With only 280AWKW so far my (target 300 -330) my car pulls strongly from 2000 rpm in top so I don't think the improvement has been counteracted. It will accelerate just as fast but of course at any given speed might be in a lower gear than with a 4.1 final drive. With a 3.545:1 first gear will be usefull again and will be able to pull more speed in each gear - handy as I will be limiting revs to 6500 - 6700. Thanks I'll check it out!

The speedo is the easy bit. If you can't get the right drive gear you can just get a Jaycar kit to modify the signal. I can't see the point of going from 4.1 to 3.9 as the difference is quite small. I have an RB30 in my Stagea (with 4.1 GTR diffs and 255 40 17 tyres) and cruising at 110km/hr is 2700 rev/min and I would like to bring it down quite a bit so I have the 3.545:1 front diff from an R34 GTR and am looking for a rear one to go with it. I have a .63A/R exhaust on my 3540 and don't fear lack of response. With a 2wd it would be easier as you have the chance to put the 9in diff from the GTT Z car which is also 3.545:1 If you really want a 3.7 or 3.9 you will find a few in this list: http://www.nismo.co....f/lsd_price.pdf

I threw my auto away when I went manual. People ask $200 for them - don't know if they get it. If you were going to keep it a GTR manual box is only $1000 but if you're going to sell it borrow the money to swap a 2nd hand auto into it and you should get a much better price.

On the C34 Stagea the attessa ecu shows error codes via a flashing light. The only problem is that the attessa ecu is in the boot behind the lining and can't be seen!

My D2s are 330 x 32mm Also sold in Aus under other names: K Sport

No. In fact the Stagea (and poss other cars) has different track front and rear from stock. Its only the circumference that matters.

If you have different rims then changing the camber might not be the right solution. Are they wider than before? Google "offset" to find out what it means and how to measure it on your rims (if it isn't already stamped inside).

Hey thanks a lot for that !! - I'd give you a beer but it would be warm by the time it got to you! Top effort :cheers:

I guess that's the same issue that is blocking access to lots of the info in the Stagea section e.g. DIY section. A member suggested a solution: Id say due to the upgrade the address path has changed slightly. Instead of being http://www.skylinesa...AVC-t62408.html its now http://www.skylinesa...d-iii-vs-avc-r/ A quick search should bring the new one up anyway until someone feels like adjusting all the links I guess that's what you're referring to. Apart from the fact that i don't have the technical knowledge to help I guess you have to be a moderator to make these fixes?!

can you do it or does it have to be a moderator? I have no idea what you are talking about but it would be good to have all the info available again!

SOLD! SOLD! Thanks

If you are not constantly modifying your car then HKS F -con is very popular with imported big power GTRs and top GTR tuners here. If you are in Japan tuning should be widely available but if you want to stay local then if you don't need a tune too often then the expense should be manageable.

To drain just drop a hose. Just run the engine when bleeding.

So there are! Sorry!

^^^Pity you're in Tauranga - I'd like to have a look but pics would be good

You can just get a small oil cooler ( I got one off a mitsi of some sort for $20) and plumb it into the line.

What's a power pak? If you mean the Atessa pump you can just bleed it by running the engine. If you're really keen the plug to disconnect is behind the drivers kick panel (its the plug you disconnect to get 2wd)

Yep the filter's metal so you can just clean it. I'd go for a longer bolt of it looks safe to drill more. ...rather than have one odd bolt size (or just leave it out and see if it leaks first!).