KiwiRS4T

Turn up your boost!

RB30 for reliable 500kw

It is said that sitting on the rev limiter is what busts oil pumps. The answer is to learn some throttle control and decide on a rev limit (say 7500) and set the limiter to say 7800 and make sure you don't exceed 7500 and just have the limiter as an insurance against the odd over-rev.

Have you lost yopur original hazard switch? I think I have one somewhere if you need one.

Who told you it can't be fixed? First off take it to a cylinder head shop for a look. If it is a fine crack you can get the head x-rayed. There are specialist welders who can repair most anything these days.

Do you have the VCT connected and running? Is that a Garrett 35/40 or a copy ( I thought Garrett woulkd be .63 rather than 70 exhaust). Should make 350kw ok maybe more with a really good tune. 3.5 or 4in exhaust would be good. What about a pic of your mint one owner car?!!

You need bushes whether or not you have pineapples.

Do some more research and ring around - there's not much that can't be repaired these days - and if you're worried get another Neo head - but I doubt it will be necessary/.

Just get rid of the controller. You should have a 10psi spring in the actuator so just run the pipe direct and you should get 10psi more or less.

3.5 litre turbo should make the 300kw easily. Stock bottom end should handle it if tuned correctly. Beefed up auto would be the priority. Car looks good - would almost be happy for it to replace my C34 when its finished!

can you get Motul Ow 30 or say Agip 5W 30

A comparison - my Rb30 has just been fired up. Stock bottom end and stock RB25DE head new rings bearings rod bolts and N1 pump. Sinco manifold (similar to 6boost) Greddy copy FFplenum, HDi i/c, GT3540 with .63 ex, stock throttle body+ fpr, 550 injectors, synapse 50mm w/g , Link G4, venom cat and 3in exhaust now at 9 psi (to be tuned to 18 - 21 psi) limited to 6500:

Here ya go: http://ripsracing.com/index2.html

Make sure you use the last lap to cool down - no boosting, allow air to pass through your radiator, intercooler, brakes etc. Put some spare fuel in the car (take it out while you're racing of course) - you will be surprised how quickly you can empty your tank when you spend a lot of time at full throttle!

Like Tangles said - if you have the opportunity to use someone else's car do it! Apart from the fact that a car which may seem fast on the road will not necesarily be competetive on the track and you have a good chance of blowing more than the turbo if you are not carefull. Your tyres will pack up after a couple of laps - if your pads last long enough you may experience fade or loss of pedal because of the old brake fluid. Everything will get really hot....if you get really into it you will spend most of the time with your foot flat on the accelerator or hard on the brakes. The Mini Cooper, Porsche and any Falcon turbos will leave you in their wake. Having said that I am a great fan of track days and strongly recommend them if your car is properly prepared. Its just that if you haven't been before it would be great to try it out in a car that isn't yours to see what is involved. If you do decide to use your own go to the DIY section where there is a "how to prepare your car for a track day" article. And try to get at least a stronger rear anti roll bar installed before you go.And change your oil for a quality fully synthetic oil such as Motul or Agip - a real synthetic is more able to withstand higher temperatures.

I found the stock airbox with a highflow panel filter best on my RB25DET but if you want you can install two, three or more pod filters if it pleases you.

No idea - why are you asking in the Stagea forum? In any case I would have thought you would want to tune the engine to get the maximum benefit from new cams and if you are going to start modifying your engine you want some kind of tunable ecu such as a Power FC, Link, Haltech or at least something with a Nistune chip in it.

Dodgy boost guage? Have you tried another?

http://www.skylinesa...52#entry5616852 post #5 tells you the procedure for a M35 haven't found it for C34 yet http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/266512-reading-nissan-fault-codes-ecu-fault-codes-how-read-them/ Ok this may work for C34 - too dark to try it now. You need to find the consult plug which on my car is behind the coin tray next to the fuse block.

Contact Guilt-Toy on this forum: http://www.skylinesa...1240-guilt-toy/ He has successfully tuned cars by remote over the phone lines e.g. a car in Georgia (the one in Europe) from Australia. He is currently in the UAE or suchlike. Ask him what is needed to make it happen.

Because all Post 2004 Nissans are OK it does not follow that no pre 2004 Nissans are ok. In any case the petrol company's advice will be very conservative in order to protect themselves. I have been running my 1996 Stagea (RB25DET - now 30/25) on E10 since 2008 I think and no fuel lines have melted or any other adverse effects been note.

People could help themselves by putting their location in their profiles - that way they can better be directed to workshops or perhaps other members who might be nearby and prepared to have a look at the car. I doubt that the O2 sensors are the cause of your car running rich. It sounds as though you need the help of a tuner unless you have a wideband some method of knock detection and know how to tune yourself.

Just go to a radiator shop and they can find one the same in their catalogue.

You have succeeded - what kind of clutch are you running?- how does it hold up at the drags?

Used my stock RB25DET throttle body with an adapter plate pn my Greddy copy FFP.