KiwiRS4T
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Everything posted by KiwiRS4T
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I have no idea what might have caused the problem but if the error is linear (i.e. 50% out at all speeds) then there is a Jaycar speedo corrector unit that will make it read right. Is the dial the original 180k dial?
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Have you got a .63 housing on your GT35R? Looks like getting the TO4 fitted to your turbo will be a step back. If you really want a bigger housing if you advertise you might find some one wanting to go to a .63
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Gearbox oil will be OK. Just use another brand for the diffs if you can't find the Castrol. Nissan reccommend Hypoid gear oil GL5 85W-90 for the front diff (approx 1L) and LSD (if you have a mechanical LSD) GL-5 80W 90 for the rear diff (about 1.5L) You could use something heavier for Australian conditions or Motul if you want to splash out!
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I had a GCG ball bearing highflow making 245awkw ( can do a little more) but hypergear sem to be able to make the same or more power for less money.
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Had a cooling pro return flow got to 245awkw tuner reckoned it was getting to its limit so now have bought an HDi chasing 300awkw.
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Current housings for GT35R are all numbered 740 902 Maybe yours is old stock from a previous model.
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I assume you have a Nistune chip? Use 98 fuel - a good tuner will sort out the detonation or pin point the problem if there is one other than the tune. BTW a technician who knows how to operate the dyno is not necessarily a good tuner! Had any comments from other users?
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From a quick search: go into your local spare parts shop and get a replacement sock/filter to suit a v8 efi falcon. you can then plumb that directly into your 044. a few fittings from pirtek and your away.
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Since I bought a 20L synthetic atf i just use that in my power steering and Attessa.
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What diameter pipes do they use? I had thought of getting a filter relocating kit and running it through the heat exchanger in my auto radiator (have converted to manual). Then if I need a bigger radiator at that point I could add a proper oil cooler and thermostat.
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Series 1 is R33 S2 is R34 as far as running gear is concerned. Hard to import a genuine low mileage C34 - better to buy one off this forum where someone has fitted the Bilsteins and sway bars to make it handle! Stock not as quick as a Legnum but there are plenty of fast Stageas among forum members.
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The heat exchanger in the radiator is important as it helps bring the auto trans up to operating temperature more quickly - and the majority of trips are less than 10km. If you are worried about water getting into the auto trans (and I have never seen it myself but I'll take your word for it that it happens) then you would be better advise people to replace their ten year old radiators before they fail.
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^^^nb as above - do not put gearbox oil down the gearstick hole. I have a syringe type thing for filling the gearbox. Alternative for Attessa is a quality synthetic atf.
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Castrol Transmax Z Only Comes In 4l?
KiwiRS4T replied to byebye's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Any quality atf will do. -
OK got the C34 Manual and Nissan Fast from Simon (pm "Chook")
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I am not especially computer literate (= I know stuff all about computers) so unless you can give me step by step instructions - no. Also my broadband is not that fast. Will fossick around to see who has it in Aus or maybe you could start a thread headed " who has C34 Japanese language manual PDF?"!
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I have a copy. 345MB - probably too big for an email. I will try to remember who I got it from. Worst case i could copy it and send you a DVD but there must be someone in Aus (pref in Melbourne) who could make a copy for you.
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I was going to say look in the DIY section in the stickie at the top of the page but there's probably more info in the Stagea Parts listing. Then have a look under the car and you should be able to find most of the plugs. Then ask if you get stuck! BTW I have gone off Castrol Edge and am now using Motul 300v although everyone has their favourites.
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if you want to side step the clutch you will need a twin or triple plate which will be a bore for normal street use (and probably GTR axles) . if you get a better single plate you will go better but awd = too much grip for lightning launch.
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But rear strut brace helps a lot!
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What kind of clutch do you have ...single plate??
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I know where he is. I'll try to get down to see him soon and ask if its on or not. I presume the alternative he will offer is to just translate the bits that are different from the R33 manual which they have already translated.
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Timing Belt Kit From Us Really Cheap
KiwiRS4T replied to boostn0199's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Looks OK. Is it still cheap when you take the freight into consideration? With Aussie dollar at parity with US good time to import. -
The available evidence would seem to indicate these are a con. Did you fit one and has there been a long term difference in consumption?
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Transfer box problems seem to be rare even at high power levels. For an expensive ecu solution if some one were keen and rich enough you could use a Link or a Vipec wire in version as a second ecu and control all the engine management functions with that and leave the stock ecu to run the auto.