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pipster11

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Everything posted by pipster11

  1. will do i'll see if my mate at autobarnzzz can do me some discount on some nulon syn stuff and might do the p/s at the same time is there a walk through with pics for the transfer flush? if not, i shall take some
  2. Well, after searching for a bit and not finding what i'm looking for i'm here I foolishly added the nulon gearbox additive through the shifter and only read recently that if you do that it goes to the transfer case So i need to flush that out asap! Adding the fluid to the transfer case pushed up the level in the reservoir in the boot - normal? Can u use Dextron 3 in the transfer case? or Does it have to be transmax z or matic-d/j? tags for future ref: attessa atessa atesa awd 4wd transfer case fluid
  3. swap the 17's for 18's? if the 17's are 5 stud that is
  4. Cheers i may be able to get in there and cut some pages out one of my lecturers is japanese but i doubt he wants to translate it for us, bit below his paygrade I'll get it up on a torrent probably, i'm just about to head from tas to qld tho so i may not be able to seed it fully till i get to qld, i'll pm you once its up and send you the link
  5. pm rs73 he gets group buys together all the time and gave me a price on slotted dba's which was cheaper than anyone else could do them for
  6. I think duncan is gonna post me a copy and i'll try and get it up on a hosting site
  7. i'm guessing tin can or pipe the size of the intake pipe (to the turbo) with an air hose fitting and a bottle of soapy water (old school bicycle inner tube leak style) and go over all the joints
  8. clean the idle valve and go from there there is a walk through on how to do it
  9. a 300v equivalent for $60 there is nothing else that performs this well for that sort of price
  10. BUMP
  11. i've got a blitz front pipe mate chasing $150 located in lonnie, 0422 988 328
  12. if you can host it online it'll save duncan posting me a disk with it on if not, i'll try and upload it when i get it (uni internet uploads at about 12-15mb/s )
  13. when you compare it to a skyline, its not gonna come off as well obviously but comparing it to another wagon its very good, look at ford wagons, basic interior, leaf springs commodore's are the same only thing that will come close is a subaru legacy gt wagon but they are a bix exxy and the twin turbo's don't work very well like you said bubba, some day i will also own another car to throw about and go fast in, but for now, the stagea is doing a pretty good job
  14. quoted for truth if an ss commodore is a marketed as a sports car a stagea is f'ing spaceship
  15. Easy way to check jack up one corner, grab the wheel on the left and right, try to move it as through the steering wheel is turning, any play here is the tie rods or rack ends grab the wheel at the top and bottom and wiggle up and down, any play here is usually wheel bearings
  16. flex and twist is mainly in the body chassis is the same as r33 from radiator support to the c pillars, rear end is the only difference (after the rear suspension) hence why manual stags have gtr rear diffs, suspension arms, shocks (different valving) and rear cradle
  17. thats like saying, if you want awd grip buy a 4x4... you forget that under the stagea lies the engine, chassis and suspension of a sports car with awd and selectable rwd
  18. I'd be happy to settle for a japanese stagea manual just to look at the pictures
  19. would you straight swap a set of 18's with tyres? (tyres are about 70-80%) and about +42 offset
  20. new coil packs and o2 sensors should fix it up also consider resoldering your afms too http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...-s-t113284.html also check for loose hose clamps and split vac lines
  21. what time did you run i'm keen for a willowbank run when i get back maybe we could do a bit of a cruise and get a few more stags out!
  22. going back to the water based insurance my housemate was 4x4ing in his old daihatsu rocky and submerged it while doing a water crossing, the motor took on water, hydrolocked and put a leg out of bed he claimed it on insurance and they paid up
  23. You should be able to achieve that, i think i got about 700kms from a tank on the drive from the Gold Coast to Tas at the beginning of the year, about to do the reverse, but with cruise control this time so i'll hopefully be able to post the differences from 98 and 95 ron fuel too oh, and if you want a gadget that will keep track of your fuel economy and tell you what all your sensors are reading at the same time www.ecutalk.com great gadget and will let you hook your laptop up to your car too (you can do diagnostics and logging etc)
  24. grab yourself a new oxygen sensor and it should help out a bit, the sensors only have a limited lifespan and rarely get replaced in japland i also run 95 in my stagea due to the exorbitant price of 98 in tas but it does lack a bit of power compared with 98 and i get slightly less fuel consumption with it too (the ecu will run more timing on 98 = better fuel economy) no one makes an aftermarket o2 sensor for the s2 stageas (rb25 neo same as r34 gtt) so its either stock nissan one for about $250 or get one for a s1, r33 gts-25t, n15 sss pulsar and cut and re-crimp the wiring using your old plug
  25. are they aerofoil style? or box section? might have to investigate further
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