tridentt150v

I hate my parents for being working class. I hate myself for being working class....I should have been a mega god actor, lawyer or accountant or in real estate or something and made obscene amounts of $$$$ and then I would not want!!! [well, not want as much, or other things]. Very nice, but makes me sad ? lol

FYP?

Do you guys have to swap them over to left hookers? I see yours is still RHD, or can you drive them like that? Excuse my ignorance

Yeah, RB25 [at least] as GTSBoy said, also has a hi mount larger turbo, aftermarket dump, probably a blitz style mount mount intercooler, alloy radiator, pod filter, and I would think an aftermarket ECU cos there is no afm [maybe cos pics are slightly from the wrong angle to confirm - looks like a plug underneath, but there is no housing so I am thinking no]. I think it could even be an rb25/30 cos that strut bar is up against the plenum, but R32's have less room there to start with. Others with more hands on exp. might confirm. Take it to the garage he used to get it tuned at and ask them, they would know more than we could ever tell from a few photo's.

Santana [Ft Rob Thomas]

Hehehe....that was my trap. And I did say....."depending on your supporting mods"....so that was my no responsibility clause.

Just hi flow your turbo if you want more power on the cheap. Its a bolt off/bolt on mod so only costs for the turbo work and a tune. It is possible to get anywhere from 220 to 260rwkw depending on your supporting mods. Or if you have $$$ buy a new turbo, maybe a Hypergear one, talk to Stao?

Sounds like your covers are loose and rubbing on the cam wheel?. The rubber locators on the bolts perish and fall off then the cover doesn't tighten up when you re install. You have to get new rubbers or make up some rubber washers. To get the lower cover off you need to take the top one off first. But first try working around both covers and see where the bolt/rubber locations are and try tightening them or replacing the rubbers without taking them off. Might save you a few hours if it works. If you do have to take them off, check when your timing belt was last changed etc…..if its due then you can order a kit with pulleys and belt etc and do them at the same time - while you have the covers off. While your there check the water pump for leaks etc...might have to replace it as well? Also the cam oil seals and maybe lower seal?

Yeah, I'm not convinced its a boost issue tbh.

Some rims on a Gtst would have a 265 tyre hitting the guard lip...I think if you got the lip rolled it would be easier. I've got 255's on mine [3/6 spoke Advans, see sig] and they miss the guard, but its millimetres in it. It also depends on your suspension setup and camber your willing to run with. Coil overs and lowered is always going to create more issues with wider tyres, so rim offset becomes more important with each modification.

Yes, new blades. But if the ones you have now are still working OK, just do what I said and save your money till they are worn out.

Use a dob of silastic, slide the metal inserts out a bit and work the silastic in as you go, then push the inserts back in. Will fix it no probs. Done right you will barely notice the fix.

No but will watch now lol....as they say...there is one born every minute!!!! PS if it sells I might have to get into the turbo business good money for old rope IMO.

Was going to say it looks like my '98, so the last of the R33's, but the timing cover behind the CAS is different and much bulkier. It has a larger flange and that webbing that mine doesn't have. Looks like its lost some coolant more than once as well - all that white dust.

Yep. one is for the toes on a humans foot, and the other one is for a camel.

I made up and polished a s/s one prank. I am pretty busy right now but will see if I have a photo of it somewhere. The reason I made one up was cos every number plate I have ever seen is always hanging down over the FMIC and radiator area....this has got to affect temperatures. The one I made sits the number plate above the air flow area.

Fully change the battery and then use the headlights on high beam for 60 seconds and see if the battery handles it or drops down to say under 10 volts. If it stays above 12 volts its OK, if it drops, its had it.

U could try running the turbo without coolant for a minute or so and see if the white smoke still happens.

Before everyone jumps on a train that they can't get off, has anyone actually measured the heat changes in the fuel at the tank? I'd be interested in quantifying just how much heat we are talking about? What pump type? And under what conditions? Maybe what is needed for a dedicated track car isn't necessary for a road going version? I didn't see this data anywhere in the thread BTW.

I'm yet to see an aftermarket BOV that performs better than stock in a street car. They only thing they seem better at is wank factor.