tridentt150v

Sounds like a group buy Ravi

I'm interested Matt...will wait on your installation on the 4wd and appraisal here if you can thanks.

You can use a bicycle pump and check the line if you need to. You may need someone else in the drivers seat to see if the gauges work. I did this when setting up the Snow Performance kit - they suggest it - and I wanted to hear the WMI motor cutting in and out along with the anti drain solenoid clicking without the motor noise.

I tend to agree with your reply, but is it actual experience??? And as for the projector setup, I can see your point, but are these LED replacements engineered for an LED headlight, or are they made for a halogen or normal projector...…...does anybody even know? And there is a thread on here about the legality...apparently its fine as long as it dips correctly to the left and there is no glare. So short reply, I still don't know which ones to look at. Maybe I need to be the lab rat and buy and try a set?

Ok, I searched on here, didn't see much at all tbh. I just changed over the sealed beam headlight I had on my bike to an LED unit [had to buy a new lens as well, but nothing wrong with my old lens] and the difference was very impressive..so thought I might do the same for the Skyline. I also had a look on ebay and there were so many LED headlight 'globes' it was overwhelming. Most promise a gazillion watts/lumens/K but all look pretty much the same - admittedly some have little fans, others have heatsinks on the arse end, some have rats tail H4 connections, others the spade H4 straight off the back...………..but I have no idea if these changes are better or worse. And it looks like you can get a pair of LED's for around $30 [and certainly under $50] delivered, so cheap really. I am still using normal halogen bulbs, with the yellowish, not so bright light and so thought I'd try an 'upgrade'. I know others have used 'white light' globes from the likes of Phillips etc that cost more than they are worth and I'm not that keen to go down that path anyway. I also bought a HID kit years ago...and then never ever fitted it, its still brand new in the box [probably need to sell I guess]. BTW on the operating temp, there was a great test done by a guy on a motorcycle forum where he tested a normal globe, a Halogen globe, and an LED [with little fan] setup using an infrared temp gun and the LED came out way cooler all round. That has to be a good thing. And finally { I have no idea on this] is it legal?? I can't see why not if they are a direct replacement, offer the same or better light, and operate much cooler than halogens anyway. So does anyone have any experience at LEDs on a vehicle? What did you end up with? And was it a better light?

Some restrictors are slip in and you just unbolt them...just check if yours is like this before dragging out the 9" angle grinder.

Take the pump out and try connecting it to 12 volts for a few seconds - away from the tank and let it is dry before you do, don't want a spark singing your eyebrows. This will tell you that the pump is/isn't the problem.

Would twin cam work better? ie anRB25de head? It has to breathe better surely?

It sold...so a dead thread really.

Mine has 98K....I've owned it for over 15 years. I only drive it on trips, so not that often. Its not a daily, I have a crappy 4wd that I use for that. I also use my motorbike for lots of trips. And the bloke that owned it before me put 1700km on it in 2 years [I have the import docs]. Its an April '98, he imported it in Jan 2000, with what we think is correct mileage at 38k, I bought it off him in Nov 2001.

Not sure, actually looks more Supra???

Dead coil packs affect the whole range....not just higher up. Red is dead, Blue is true. If you don't believe us, take the coils and get them tested. Otherwise take it to a workshop and get their input.

Check the connections to the fuel pump...listen and see if you can hear it trying to work next time it happens.

Or go back to std suspension......ie do it right or not at all

Bingo!!!! If you have coil overs and the car is down to the legal limit [100mm I think] then you will likely need adjustable uppers to get the alignment right. Most [including mine] do.

It was used ages ago by many [me included for a while] to compensate for cushioning effect of lead in super. Was supposed to make your valves and valve seats last longer....because everyone kept telling the world that all our valves and seats would erode away with this unleaded poison we were forced to use. It may well do this, but with modern valve seats and valves it was proven over time to be totally unnecessary. And older vehicles with cast valve seats [or cast iron heads with seats cut directly into the head] and 'softer' valves got updated and then went on to do another million miles. I can remember these sort of additives on every service station counter available in little 40ml plastic shots - one per tank fill. These days you rarely see it anywhere, and with good reason, it was totally unnecessary. We lament the loss of super, but the sky didn't fall? In the case of E85...I don't know, but suspect the same.

Get a wheel balance and alignment first. Why replace the vacuum lines??? have they gone hard with age? Are they splitting all the time?

Just send a marriage proposal to the dori hina that made/milled her own. Now that would be a girl worth marrying.

Like others, I have been using Meguiars waterless wash for a few years now and am sold on it. I wash the car properly about every 3rd or 4th time, but in between I use the Meguiars. An added bonus is the 'as good as wax' finish it gives you, And I can do my whole car in 15-20 minutes. Only thing I do before starting is to use a dust mop/brush on the car first, a 5 minute job. And you need so little of the waterless solution that I am still using the same bottle.

Yeah, don't get that...plenty of big hp and mercilessly flogged track Gtst's out there easily doing what a std 26 can do.

Knock yerself out!!!

Bomb insurance is probably the best option....I'm with AAMI and it costs me under $300 but I'm way past 25. And with bomb insurance you are only insured against damage you do to others, so you have to be able to fix/repair or replace your own car out of your own pocket. But given that 2wd Skyline's are sub $15K, you can probably buy a new one every 5-10 years based on savings from Comprehensive vs Bomb. Also try to go for as a high a excess as you can, it helps lower what you pay, but then again you trade off small scratches and dings cos you have to [again] pay for them yourself. BTW...I've had bomb insurance on all my vehicles now for the last 20-25 years and only had 3 prangs and none my fault so the other party paid.

Something screwy there....all the countries [except USA] that have a rating of over 10 are very small in population. I think the way they report on it is way off somehow. lets face it, Curacao??? Estonia???? Gibraltar??? New Caledonia Ummm??? I find it hard to believe, something is biasing the samples. Obviously a per capita report is next to useless in a real world sense.