robbo_rb180

He is in Townsville. Can 100% say that is a known happy Dyno. Probably not the best place for a tune in Townsville. Ask me how I know.... I can recommend a much better tuner locally. The boost tee is designed to bleed air away from the wastegate to increase boost pressure.

Do it, add a stillen based blower kit and scare the v8 bogans

Video added. GOPR0204_1584526511125_high.MP4 Need to find something simple to get out there and have fun in- 350z/v35 would be my pick atm How big the new shed?

They go pretty good but bloody noisy. Haven't done any really big stops(over 160kph) yet. Will go the performance street ones next.

Drove QR Autumn Matsuri last weekend. Heaps of fun and driving with mates that made the trip from Townsville. Blew a welsh plug out of the block Saturday night Got a new one and got it in and drove until the last 1.5hrs when 3rd gear decided to finally explode. Got a video from in car that I need to edit. Did post event comp test and tested 150-155psi, tested cooling system too and all good. New s14 gearbox was sourced and inspected before install, all new filters and fluids all ready for Thursday night at Archerfield drift. Definitely need to go e85 as extra 20kw would help on the big tracks. Once I get home hopefully do a few more steering mods and fix a few chassis problems.

BOC don't do nos system, just the industrial stuff and the one that does only does it a week before a big drag meet in Cairns or Mackay, should have just LS it. Got some in car stuff, will go through it when I get home as still in Brisbane for work.

A late night update HQ got 4 into 1 extractors and twin 2.5 inch exhaust, finding someone to fill nitrous bottle is turning out to be difficult. Went to Airlie Beach, rented airbnb Finally changed oil on drift car. Went to archerfield and had a great time, cars a little worse off but driving has improved Actually made small progress on the sil80 and started stripping brake calipers for powder coating and new seals

As has been said the Link help file has all information needed to get it running. Need to set trigger widest slot and trigger offset values. Depending on what fuel mode you use will depend on how you tune it. Next is injector data THIS IS IMPORTANT especially with modelled fuel. The base file is helpful but generally doesn't get it running if you have never used one or have a good understanding of how the ecu works. You need a Wideband sensor and controller to tune, wire to a AN input or to CAN. Factory narrow band is useless. IAT is only used for corrections but is definitely a must. May pay to get a workshop or someone who knows what they are doing to get it sorted. Or if you need more info PM me.

Have used NPC clutches for a while now for street and track cars with around the same power. Good pedal feel and haven't had any problems. A few friends are using mantics from heavy duty up to twin plates in commodores, skylines and wrx's with all saying good things.

New suspension bushes, MCA street performance/ultimates and decent tyres would be all that is needed suspension wise. R34 gtt brakes with HEL braided lines, good fluid and new pads(Elig, Intama are affordable good options). No need for fancy rotors. No point doing a shift kit. New trans filter and fluid will be noticeable and keep it going. As has been said recently learn from others that have spent the time and money doing it.

No point doing an exhaust or pod filter on non turbo motors. Nothing to be gained except noise and a lighter wallet. A bit of advice, google search all your questions and once you have exhausted that option then post in here.

JHH for all the machining and assembly. Listen to what they say and have a hassle free engine.

Buy a new cup, wave washer and shifter bush from Taarks or Kudos. Get shifter springs from gktech. Do fresh gearbox oil with a tube of nulon smooth shift. That's about the best you can do. Stay away from the ebay offerings.

http://letmegooglethat.com/?q=Prp+Rb+coil+kit I don't like the look of most of those plenums and fitting the new plazmaman ones with engine in is a pain with the water hose/pipe underneath.

perfect example of why not to fit that style of plenum. lost 1000rpm of response and a bucket load of power. Green is factory plenum, the others are a short runner style plenum. Bin the yellow jacket coils and get a PRP r35 coil kit.

Depends on what ecu you have. Most places have experience with popular stuff- link, haltech, nistune, apexi. Personally used East Coast Customs at Northgate. Both Link ecu's, No issues with both cars they have done.

As soon as it's wired and bottle filled, it's happening.

Nitrous almost all setup on the HQ Race car now lives in Brisbane, been drifting the 180sx heaps. Bent steering stuff last week so need new lca & tie rod at minimum and new mirror & door handle after clipping a barrier. Sil80 hasn't been touched

The problem with trying to build a car to regs for different classes doesn't work. I've looked at it before to try and make a sprint/hill climb, drift and targa car but too many compromises to meet reg's and it would not have been competitive for any of them. You have a lot of sprint based stuff around that really don't have regs so build a car for that is competitive for that style. WTAC now seems out of reach for a s13 to compete in when Honda's and i30N are are going sub 1:43.

gearbox upgrade time for the r33???

http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/garage-whifbitz-7-speed-dct-gearbox-conversion.html

DBW piss easy to do, just find a TB(bosch 60-84mm, New mustang is 83mm or LS), get a flange made and welded to manifold, Use a z33/v35 accel pedal as it bolts up and wire to ecu (12v, Gnd, 5v, sensor gnd and 2 Position outputs). I have found it heaps better to tune idle too and allows traction/launch control

Apologies for following rant.... Now you guys over there have access to gtr's get in contact with some Australian workshops for info as you are all using 10-20 year old stuff that is over priced and out dated. Who ever talked you into gtrs and power fc needs to be slapped back to last century. Engine temps should be around 85-90 load pending. Intake can go well over 60 depending on turbo and Intercooler set-up. Best thing to do is off load power fc, get a link or haltech and use fresh modern sensors. Will give you proper data and many more features. Can easily diagnose faults with trigger and sensors, get flex fuel, closed loop boost control and drivability. As previously stated about the current sensor, it sounds faulty and is probably copping a lot of hot air off the radiator as there is no shroud. Who's keen to move to US and open a gtr only shop? Would make a killing over there

whats engine temps doing and do you still run clutch fan with the shroud. Sounds like a faulty sensor. no need for fancy plenums for your power. Where are you located as there are some good workshops that are very good with early gtr stuff?

Was it doing this before the power fc install? Factory gtr Intercooler are pretty good and support decent hp What is ait intake temp? Have you got a temp probe to do some testing? Could be tune related with iat correction issue or cas could be faulty........ Find a good auto electrician/workshop. Internet diagnosis is not the way to solve issues