robbo_rb180

Have a look at r34 gtt fronts as rotor is 310mm or find a friend who is happy to let you borrow gtr/brembo calipers and rotors to test fit. The evo setup requires minimum of 18inch wheels generally.

Looks like you will struggle to fit anything bigger, depending on the track and speeds a good set of pads, lines and fluid will be enough. If you decide to go bigger look at 350z brembo fronts as they will fit under most 17s (te37, rpf1, r33 gtr) I've been using project mu pads and 4000 series rotors with good consistent feel for 6+ years and am trialling a set of Elig pads at the moment but haven't had to do as heavy braking but seem alright for a budget brake pad.

Good work, always good to have a system. Have you looked at torque or realdash for ecu info to be displayed on the head unit?

Now uploads are working again here's a few quick pics.

Rear end is in, all new bushes and gktech arms also cleaned up a spare diff cover and fitted it up. Had one f**k up installing front lca bush and bent the lca, lucky I have a spare but it's on the race car in Brisbane ? Just need to clean up the threads for the rear sway bar mounts and that will be rear all done. Brake lines get measured first thing Monday so will be rolling Tuesday night. Actually getting keen to drive it. Excuse shitty pics but cbf after working on it all day. **won't let me upload pics @PranK

Also clean the negative/grounding points on the battery, chassis and engine. Get hold of an after market guage and double check for sanity.

Check the starter relay. The eccs/ecu relay sounds to be right as the buzzing will be the fuel pump that the ecu switches. If the relay is good, get under the car and give the starter a tap with a hammer as it may jammed. Following that get a multimeter and see if there is voltage to the start solenoid.

If you have the time and patience do a heap of smoothing to the casting and a base coat to get rid of all the imperfections. I sandblasted these did a base coat sanded with 400 then 800 and did final colour coat, apply stickers then cleared. I also wax & grease remover between each dry coat. All I used was vht brake paint from a can but if was to do it again would probably 2pac them. Good luck with it, I'll try and post a link where I got my stickers.

If you decide to go a new turbo see Shane at Subaru Doctor/Shane Fraser Motorsport does good pricing and work.

That's it, no one is really going to see underneath the car. Calipers all finished off with fresh stickers and clear coat. Came up pretty good, not going to be a show car any way. Finished welding the plates in and prepared the rest of the suspension for a coat of black. Will let it cure for a day or two then start putting in the bushes and ball joints. Also had the HQ tuned back in May. Made a massive 176hp ? drives pretty good for what it is, definitely needs the nitrous kit finished off. I had the timing and secondary set up right but needed a different power valve & mod to the squirters.

Use r32/33 engine cross member and mounts for that frame. Rb25 gearbox cross member requires the mounting to be moved forward (I welded 2 extensions on) Need custom tailahaft unless using Rb20 box Radiator can use one for CA18 for correct outlet positions. Either make your own sway bar spacer or get a whiteline one Google 'poor man's Rb conversion nissansilvia.com' a lot of good info All standard s chassis is retained but can use s14/15 flca and knuckles or buy a conversion kit requiring new bearings There is almost 20 years worth of info out there that a Google search will give all info My cars been Rb since 2003 and done both Rb20 to 25 box biggest problem is keeping it cool so use quality radiator and fans with ducting

lifters or valve spring issue? Guessing it's not been driven under load or had fresh oil in that time? Best to remove cam and timing covers to inspect the valve train.

Put in the correct ecu

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/water-temperature-sensor-gauge-suit-nissan-skyline-excluding-stagea-wc34-p-906.html

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-multimeter---digital/387595.html One of the best tools to own when trying to diagnose electrical issues. A quick google search and almost every basic problem is fixable with out asking questions on a forum. I miss the times before the internet was everywhere.

You've been told what you need to do to check the sensor is right. When you're relying on people to diagnose/repair it there is never a correct answer/solution with out doing some of the work.

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+measure+resistance+using+multimeter

I'll add to what Greg has said as I was recently looking at new cars and ended up with a 370z to daily. Compared to driving a modified 90s import that I have sunk far too much money into the new car has a lot of great things like cruise control, good economy, steers brilliantly, interior is nicer and goes decent for what it is without any of the hassles but I'll always have the old cars there for the nostalgia/tinkering factor. Another thing was value for money you get a lot of car for the money these days. All cars with have pros & cons with each one but comes down to what you want it for. I have found that having a one nice car (370z) & one practical do it all car (d22 dual cab) is necessary. I love driving my s chassis' but I don't think I could go pay what people are asking for them these days for what you get.

On a tight budget that is a good foundation this is what I would start with: Id1300 Injectors Nistune ecu HPX/r35 AFM Walbro 460/bosch 540 fuel pump Port standard exhaust manifold & external gate Turbosmart 45mm external gate Garret GTX gen2 3076/G30-770/ HyperGear ATR45SS-2 Turbocharger Quality Front mount Exhaust Probably wont make a reliable 600hp without a built motor but solid foundation of supporting parts for future upgrades. I would only use the plazmaman plenum on standard runners and not a knock off greddy/short runner inlet and if you want more features later on a Link G4x plugin would be the go

^Do this but gen2 , Walbro 460/bosch 540(draws less current)and top feeds. I can help touch it up.

I feel you there had to get rid of my street triple. Most guys I know have moved to Harley's for that reason as they ride nice and comfy for daily commute. With a set of pipes the neighbours will appreciate it every time you start it.

Nice buy, having a haltech it may have a few other things done to it. What's the plan for it?

Definitely, pretty spoilt for a good choice of coffee roasters locally. Spent a good part of the day in the shed getting fiddly jobs done to get the sil80 rolling. Had to sand the brake calipers as wasn't happy with the finish so a good sand and another coat of paint they came up a lot nicer so tomorrow will put on the new stickers and clear coat. Made good progress welding in the braces. Did a lot of them with the tig but struggled doing a few small ones with the mig. Got 4 left to do on the cradle tomorrow before prep for paint. Odered the rear knuckle bushes and ball joints as well as organising custom brake lines. Hopefully can keep up this pace.

With the AR1 I run them at front 32 & rear 30 (255-40-17) but my 180sx is a lot lighter and less power, the suzuki swift we run around 28-30 (225-45-17). May need to go up in size if sticking with them. I used the hankook z222 in the past and found them a good compromise for street & track. How big a tyre can you go? With the oil issue have you looked at putting a breather/fitting in the oil cap or off the side of the passenger side cam cover?