robbo_rb180

Welcome, that's cool sending the car back to Japan. You should do a full write up on the build of the 34 https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/

New mustangs are great the 10 speed in the 2018+ just makes them great for cruising and highway fun 2018 intake, full exhaust & e85 make 340ishKw or just add a blower & headers 450kw but they are pretty big cars, took a while to get use to parking/reversing them. After being in a few mustangs and a 2019 M4. I would definitely take the mustang, much nicer to live with daily. More build saga please, been good reading and seeing how you got to this point.

Hi, try posting here in the Wanted To Buy section https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/13-wanted-to-buy/

Poor man pays twice..... Do it once and do it right. Helped with a few NA+T conversions on a few cars and with what is available these days it is easy & relatively affordable to do. The performance gain is nothing just adding the turbo without all the supporting fuel & ignition stuff. This is the only way I would do a NA+T Nissan these days Nistune https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/ecus/listing-2598731886.htm?rsqid=544f00f97d7445d8a2bb6cc625d524a1-001 AFM https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/electrics/listing-2582866171.htm?rsqid=bd2234b74bfa46ddafc477cd90d356e0-003 Add a fuel pump like an Aeromotive stealth 300, factory turbo fuel reg, standard turbo or gtr injectors and enjoy a car that is reliable and fun with the option to go further in the furture.

has the CAS got the washers between it and the bracket? Is the dwell setting correct for coils?

No, it should still turn over. I would be talking with who made the loom as if both ecus are not firing injectors thats rare for 2 fried ecus. The loom could also have a an issue damaging the ecu. Probably time to engage an auto sparky

May be worth getting a hold of a consult cable & download consult software. See if there are any codes of errors. Besides testing another ecu.

Is there a way to automatically put any thread with "catch can" in it straight to the oil control thread?

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=6boost+manifold+rb25

So it turns over but does not fire? 1. Check 12v at injectors and Continuity back to the ecu on the ground side. 2. Remove CAS and plug in, spin it and listen for injectors pulsing. 3. If the above is good, Check fuel pump is priming. 4. If pump is priming, fuel lines are backwards.

remove bearings, measure them and go to cbc or some other bearing retailer. Probably better of taking it to a gearbox/diff shop as will need to reset the backlash and will then have warranty.

Perfect example of using a short runner manifold vs standard. The only thing I would use is the plazmaman plenum which bolts to factory runners.

Bracket https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/collections/rb-coil-bracket-kits/products/rb-r35-vr38-coil-bracket-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26 Coils https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/collections/rb-coil-bracket-kits/products/oem-nissan-coils-for-rb-coil-bracket-oemcoils Instructions https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/pages/platinum-racing-nissan-rb-r35-vr38-coil-kit-excludes-neo The Platinum Racing kit is pretty good, done a r34 & 2jz setups. Comes with everything & has online instructions. Start first go and no problems since. Only use genuine as have seen some issues with others. The Link is able to to 3D dwell time adjustment, I can provide a map if required.

Once this virus stuff calms down a track day with get you motivated

it totally changes how they drive, never know it may make your barge almost handle like a BMW Last time I did it with an energy suspension urethane kit(still going good in the race car), will get the whiteline rubber stuff this time for street car comfort.

https://mcasuspension.com/products On a budget I would go the Voston range MCA design(the original Blue series) over anything else. The valving in most coilovers is not designed for Australian roads. Been in a lot of cars with MCA stuff & personally have been using a set for over 5 years.

This has been keeping me sane with the tracks closed ATM. Plenty of different games with mods out there for hills driving. 100% worth the cost and less likely to be pulled over

Great work so far. Like the diy fibreglass stuff. what sort of circuit stuff do you do? Time attack, sports sedan?

Is there a way to have a standard layout/thread for assisting members with issues/problems with their cars Thought maybe a standardised layout may help most and not frustrate others as we are getting more of the same problems repeating. I've provided 2 examples if anyone wants to add to or fix them Location: Model: Year: Engine: Gearbox/trans: ECU: Intake Mods: Hotside Mods: Fuel System: Issue/Problem: What have you tried: Example 1 Location: Townsville Australia (Country is a big one) Model: Nissan Sil80 Year: 1993 Engine: RB25det Gearbox/trans: 5 Speed ECU: Link G4+ Xtreme Intake Mods: FMIC, plazmaman intake, 74mm DBW Hotside Mods: standard manifold, gt3076r, 45mm external gate Fuel System: Walbro 460, nismo reg, 40 amp relay hard wired Issue/Problem: Car doesn't start or idle clean What have you tried: checked fuel pressure- 300kpa checked base timing & ecu offset- 15 degree base, 91 offset New fuel filter New spark plugs Pressure test intercooler pipes- held 600kpa Example 2- Location: Melbourne, Australia Model: R33 gtst s1 Year: 1995 Engine: rb25 det Gearbox/trans: Auto ECU: standard Intake Mods: pod filter, fmic Hotside Mods: 3 inch turbo back Fuel System: walbro 255 Issue/Problem: Car misfires when coming onto boost What have you tried: Inspected spark plugs- Black and fuely Checked intercooler pipes- no leaks all clamps tight Checked all Vacuum hose- no leaks or cracks Cleaned MAF

With all this lock down stuff I have gotten into the sil80 and gone through parts to sell. Fixed the leaking fuel lines at the fuel tank & drained the stale fuel. Updated firmware on ecu as it was late 2018 firmware. Removed front & rear lca and knuckles from the car. Pulled out spare frame and degreased & pressure washed away all the muck. I went and bought a small press and removed all the ball joints and the bushes I could Also started sand blasting the Brembo calipers ready for powdercoating & rebuild Got the gktech weld in plates for castor brackets & rear subrame to be done before being powder coated. Debating wether to buy new MCA coilovers for this or put the old ones back in and buy new ones for the race car.

Calm ya tits mate..... Now everyone has given good advice on how to diagnose this issue. Take a look at who is giving advice by actually looking at their profiles & posts. Most of the people trying to help have been around for a long time. I'm guessing you are in the US so not many people have experience with these cars. Check fuel pressure after the filter- will be blocked filter or dead fuel pump(I have seen a lot of walbro failures even with newish pumps). I have had a factory fuel reg fail only found it as had a guage & the tuner had swapped pumps. you have the tools there- guages & wideband may as well spend the time to check it properly. If issue is still there after this would just wait until you can book in to see a mechanic who has experience with skylines/rb cars.

Go the link. Easy to use and setup, help file is a lot better than haltech, use any sensor with its own calibration, closed loop boost and Wideband, upto 5d mapping, ethrottle if you want to enable other features like traction & cruise control and don't have to eat kebabs every time you drive the car.

They respond pretty good to some positive manifold pressure.

will need something like this kit http://alphaomegaracing.com/p/119/c/73/Z33/ALPHA-OMEGA/Evo-350mm-Brembo-Front-Brake-Adapter-Kit-Version-3.html

He is in Townsville. Can 100% say that is a known happy Dyno. Probably not the best place for a tune in Townsville. Ask me how I know.... I can recommend a much better tuner locally. The boost tee is designed to bleed air away from the wastegate to increase boost pressure.