robbo_rb180

Spent the afternoon painting the bonnet, got the under coat sanded nicely and gave it a few coats of colour in case I need to give it a buff. Box of goodies arrived from gktech to fix the front end, the dash came back from PowerTune digital with an upgrade to the latest board and software need to fab a new bracket too and also have picked up a sponsor for the supertaxi event and the whole sides of the car will be getting wrapped/stickered up so will be a proper race car ? I'm off to Brisbane Tuesday and hopefully back home very late Thursday night (3200km round trip ?) so can get it all sorted end of next weekend.

That's a Nice clean example. Replace clutch fluid and adjust it under the dash should help with the clutch feeling. How do you go over there with police and the recent flood of 90s Jap imports?

Ffp = forward facing plenum. Have you adjusted the screw on the idle air control valve under the plenum or is the link controlling idle by ignition timing? If low idle and no leaks, its not getting enough air. Also plug in the inlet air temp sensor as it may have an idle control table that may use it.

Yes want a bit more of a factory look once its all finished. Yeah I removed the condensor back in 2008 when I had heating dramas when I first moved to Townsville but I am determined to have AC in this car as I really want to be able to drive it anywhere all year round. I use to run a 14 inch push & offset 12 inch pull and never went over 90C on track so hoping using something good quality (spal, motordyne) and the ducting/shroud will move enough air to keep it. Have priced up a custom radiator thats a bit thinner, cross flow & will allow a 14 & 12 inch pull setup but trying to avoid that ATM Thanks mate, Hows your new engine coming along?

No need for an aftermarket ecu with basic things like that. One of the nicest r33 gtrs I've driven had dump pipes, exhaust, hard pipe kit & removed restrictor. Was fine until the owner added a boost tee and turbos exploded. If you do want some extra features like flex fuel, closed loop boost control & better fuel economy look at a Link ecu plugin, goes in factory case so nice & discreet when you go home. I have found them very easy to use over the last 10 years, wire in a wideband , do some logging and have a go tuning yourself and hire a dyno when you want to do WOT tuning.

So not much more big progress on the sil80. Removed the radiator and got it chemically cleaned as I had left water only in the system for over a year, cleaned up the thermostat housing and inspected the thermostat which I'll replace as a precaution. Got some stainless steel bolts and washers to mount the new heatshield I made. Struggling to find a quality 14inch thermofan that will fit as I don't think a 12inch will be upto it(I have a 14 inch pusher on the condenser). Got the lines and new reservoir to finish the power steering off. That's about where I got to before I found out the car club I am part of looks like to be running a super sprint for the supertaxi event here so have directed attention to getting the race car ready for it. It's still in Brisbane but have organised new front lca with ball joints and a replacement tierod end for the broken one. Going to remove the vented bonnet and go back to factory steel as it is a lot better condition and looks neater so have prepared it for paint over the weekend. And to top it off I've been asked to navigate for Targa great barrier reef again this time in a pretty tough VH SS as covid border closure won't allow the regular navigator into Qld. Give the cars page a like on facenovel https://m.facebook.com/car689/ Pretty busy few weeks ahead and still got to retrieve the race car from Brisbane too ?

Looks like I'm driving in supports for supertaxi in Townsville so will be able to give a good review of the Elig pads. Trying to get a few people onto them up here.

A relay

Are you running a whole new loom or using the factory Nissan loom? Use the link ecu help file for factory ecu pin out at factory ecu side but easy enough to find with multimeter from cas to ecu

The trigger wires you need the 12v, gnd and the trigger + of each to the trigger 1&2. It may seem confusing as there is separate wire for cam and crank with all the wires as most people go to a full trigger kit but if you look at the diagram power and ground are the same pins at the ecu

What cas do you have metal or plastic? As they are reverse of each other Need sensor gnd, 5/8/12 volt (ecu dependant, trig 1 to cam(home) , trig 2 to crank

Never fitted one but you could always cut/enlarge the area where the cas gasket goes

also seems like a lot of people start the vk** swap and never finish it as I couldn't find many running examples only one I've seen in person is the MCA 370z and that is never going to be a street car again. If wanting V8 the LS* swap is the way, can even use the CD009 6 speed these days that way really should only need engine mounts. Other thing may be a honda 4 cylinder of some variety pending year to meet emissions but thats a small engine in a barge.

Where are you located? In Brisbane I recommend East Coast Customs & Townsville either myself or ShaneFraserMotorsport. A quick google of nistune tuners is a good place to start too

Check ecu and injector fuses but probably fried ecu

yep, I have gone from greddy w/Q45 to plazmaman w/ DBW. There was a noticable difference when we ran it up on the dyno a while back. Will hopefully have it all finished in a few months & have results of greddy& 6boost vs plazmaman & external gatedfactory exhaust manifold- everything else the same.

blue and pink. Same dyno & workshop. the only variables was prp coil kit & the tuners as I touched up the original tune the boss did the original only really changed the fuel map & boost control.

get a fan controller and wire it up as per instructions. something like this https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/af49-1029-adjustable-fan-temp-controller I have found most aftermarket fans not that great, take a tape measure to the rad and see what options fit from something like a falcon, commodore or even a 350z fan with shroud would be a huge improvement.

Easy to use what you have, this will work https://au.gktech.com/products/rear-suspension/hicas-accessories/s-r-chassis-hicas-delete-combo It's easy to remove the hicas ball joint by removing the clip and pushing out the ball joint and replace it with a standard bushing as I just finished refurbing one of my subframes using a donor one.

Sucks to hear about bank drama. Freeing up some dollars for a BMW or more Reno's? Please do this. How would you bonding to aluminium go with the pressure?

I've used poly and whiteline bushes and prefer the whiteline subframe, lca and knuckle bushes with everything else adjustable and rose joints. Done lots of daily/highway driving with monthly track days. Gktech have been my go to choice for adjustable arms for the last 8 years, good thing is they finally sell parts to replace worn stuff. If you can find a s13 subframe as won't need hicas lockbar. Definitely worth the time doing this.

Immobiliser is the last thing you need to do. Brake master cylinder sounds like it's stuffed and needs rebuild. Smell is Probably an oil leak onto the exhaust. Probably best to check compression and leak down and inspect turbo as it may have blown oil seal(burning oil smell) Car looks/sounds to be a stolen recovered. If not mechanically minded will be a long expensive problem.

If going to pull it apart what a s15, a bit lighter and should be able to find one for similar money

It's to route the water jackets together. Yes they look good but unless you have a a 800+hp setup not worth it. Here is a back to back on a r34 from standard to plazmaman intake,take note of the big dip. Highly recommend their top half plenums for street cars

@Chris Rogers is the alarm guy, Did mine 12 years ago never had any problems. As MLR has stated a multi layer approach is the best way still the best system ever