robbo_rb180

Been slowly collecting parts and the new internals arrived this week so engine was dropped off for machining. Just going to get crank linished, rotating assembly balanced and deck the block. Heads getting hot washed then returned so I can start porting it before being machined. Hit some suspect areas in the engine bay with a wire wheel and found some dodgy repairs Plan is to sand blast the bay and see how bad it is. Also got to see the plans for the new track and stage 1 looks good but is now 12 months away so going to try and get the car all sorted for japnats at QR in April

You mean the body loom that runs under the right guard? Just make sure it ziptied hard against the underside and don't run stupid size/offset wheels and low height.

What is the diff ratio?

I have used East Coast Customs in the past when in Brisbane. They do a wide range of vehicles from imports through to new model american & euro stuff. Had a mate use GT Auto garage with good success

I don't know of any that far north but any brake/parts shop will be able to supply rotors or even one of the resellers on this site. @Dose Pipe Sutututu for brake stuff

I've grabbed a 300zx wheel and clock spring with the factory cruise switches and wiring it to the link ecu for cruise control

. 82 it's responsive, as he wanted mid range power. To save money go the internal gate version and port the factory exhaust manifold. Have a search for @The Mafia old thread on low mount Gt30 made good power.

besides the battery polarity, check that the engine block is grounded to the chassis and all the grounds are clean. As duncan said whip out the multimeter and diagrams.

The ar1 is good for the money if your going out for a bit of fun. They seem to go better at higher pressures(31-36psi hot) depending on cars weight.

Just put one of these on a rb30 powered drift car. Very good result on low boost (16psi) did QR matsuri with no issues so far.

So starting a separate build thread for the race car as its about to go through another small build/update. Original build starts around page 2 https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472170-robs-sil80-more-skyline-than-s-chassis/page/2/ The car has been great since originally putting it together but after 18 months of use it is showing a lot of signs of use. So after the last event it was showing signs of heavy blow by and lower compression since last compression test 150ish down to 115. Decided to pull the engine out and do a freshen up with rings, bearings and gaskets but after pulling off the turbo found oil had been leaking into both housings. After a bit of investigation I found the restrictor wasn't a restrictor but just an adapter 😅 Wasn't going to pull the motor down as found where the oil was coming from but I just kept thinking while the engines out......... Spent the afternoon stripping it down and I was surprised with what I found This was the worst of the 2 rod bearings and one of the mains had marks in it along with the exhaust cam. Cylinders 1 & 2 both had marks in the bores so hopefully honing will help. Seeing a machine shop later in the week to see what can be done. Will definitely be doing rods and pistons now. While the engines out I'll be tidying up the engine bay. Fix the hacked up cooler holes, dodgy tower repairs, clean up wiring and a new colour maybe silver or grey to help spot leaks. Specs as of 13 october 2020 Engine- sr20 arp headstuds metal head gasket gtx gen2 2867 1350cc injectors Aeroflow fuel reg walbro 460L Link G4+ ECU fmic 3 inch exhaust turbosmart BOV Driveline s14 5 speed NPC RB Heavy duty conversion clutch 4.3 diff ratio Nismo centre 5 bolt axels Suspension & brakes s15 5 stud urethane bushes MCA X-R coilovers whiteline sway bars kazama rear camber, toe & traction arms gktech castor arms r33 brakes unknown rotors Elig race pads front, street pads rear hel braided lines wheels & tyres TE37 17x9 +22 255 40 17 Advan A050 Inside Cobra suzuka seat 5 point harness AGI Half cage Defi guages- water & oil temp, oil pres & boost works bell quick release keys racing suede wheel battery in rear seat area

Cheaper than r33 xenon lights ? Were around $500 ? Almost looks like it came from factory with all the "standard" Nissan parts.

Welcome, That's a massive effort staying in Iraq for that long (I spent an 8months in Afghanistan years ago ) Looks pretty good at the moment. I don't have any experience with R32 bodywork but new suspension bushes and ball joints does make them a lot nicer to drive.

Just spent a bit of time this morning doing a few small things like fitting indicators, rear speaks, shortening intake pipe and cooling plates. Engine bay all done just need to fit a washer bottle in the corner Thanks to @Ben C34 advice went back and checked the ethrottle setup and set it up properly so idle is smooth at 800rpm and doesn't stall ? Big ticket items left is driver side lca, cat back exhaust and Coilovers.

definitely a market for it. Just finding quality parts to copy will be hard but if you do I'll take one of these

Pm sent

Thanks for the info will have a look at that before I do anything else.

Progress back moving under its own power. Been spending a little bit of time sorting out the power steering setup since I didn't end up going electric. Went with an aeroflow tank as I stuffed up the original one trying to weld on dash fittings. Cut off the old bracket and made a template, copy to aluminium, cut/drilled and folded. Finished making lines and filled with fluid only to find I had hoses the wrong way on the rack. Switched them around, Bled it up and everything thing was all good. Also fixed cooling set up by moving one of the fans, got a new nismo thermostat just incase as the old one was around 11 years old. New coolant with demineralised water and now temps around 80c at idle. Still sorting idle with ethrottle as when I stab the throttle it doesn't return to idle smoothly or stalls so will keep adjusting the proportion and stall gain to make it right. List of things needed to get back on the road is getting smaller.

the ball joint taper is different. There is no need to change the knuckle to run the gtr hubs, I'v run run them on all my s chassis' with no issues. I've got a set here and will get some pictures & measurements to show the difference

I think that's going to change with Americans now getting into the platform.......

Thanks Eric. Maybe worth stepping up to a 3576 or 3584 if wanting the power. Check out @Dose Pipe Sutututu build page 72 has good data and setup if wanting good power with response, no need for nitrous on your current set-up might just need rear housing, setup close loop boost control on the link and more timing with the e85.

That's fair enough, I know how my sil80 went with Aussie 500hp at the wheels and was very linear with a built Rb25, 6boost manifold and gt3076. 82(2008 spec) and e85. If just chasing a power figure adjust baro, temp correction and ramp rate on the Dyno ?

Stepping up to a bigger rear housing will help but depends how far you want to move the power band up the rev range a. 82 is a good point for response and power be interesting to see how a bigger housing would go.

Easiest way would be : Walbro 460/525l Idx1300 injectors Quality fuel reg Continental ethanol (also does temp) Plenty of head room and should idle nicely

Why can't you use the r33? Vct, iacv and injectors are different off the top of my head. If you don't have a loom just use an aftermarket ecu and loom to suit