robbo_rb180

A quick review of the Elig pads I got from @Dose Pipe Sutututu R33 calipers, rda/dba rotors at minimum thickness, penrite 600f fluid, HEL braided lines. Elig Racing pads front Elig Sport pads rear Good bite from cold and consistent when hot. Did 5x 20min sessions with 2 big applications a lap from 180kph. Still got plenty of thickness on the pads but rotors are done. Dust isn't too bad for the type of pad. If wanting something decent on a budget they are the way to go.

Your doing it wrong then need to get a harley to be loud and obnoxious like @mlr ?

Good on you for having a go, at least you have plenty of spare gears. Tell the wife standard gearbox's are getting too expensive and unknown condition, you'll save money in the long run.

You'll probably be getting a few more enquiries about brake pads soon.... People were shocked I only had r33 calipers with good pads and fluid so many people didn't even think about getting at least good fluid before the event ?

Jumped the gun on that, turns out it's 4th ? 2 race drivers and a 500kw R32 gtr got me. Brakes worked really well. One of the commodore Ute's exploded a set of ebc yellows.

Why not a t56/tr6060 from a commodore? I believe there is a bolt on bell housing available. Not as smooth as the cd00* but lots of aftermarket support.

The foxtel coverage was great, did a slowmo yesterday that was cool. Yep overcooked it over taking a slow car and got on the power but had more grip than I thought. Weekend wrap........ That was EPIC Started off Saturday just working up to a comfortable pace and ended up with a 1:31.4. Lost a bit of brake pedal feel by the end of the 3rd session. Did a bolt check, bleed brakes and scuffed the brake pads at the end of the day. Todays first session car felt good and brakes were so much better did another 1:31.4 but car was breaking down under so pulled the spark plugs, gapped a new set down to. 6mm and drained the rad overflow back into the radiator. Was pretty confident as hadn't pushed hard yet. 5th and last session I knew I had a fair bit left in it so went hard and got a 1:28.936 which left me 2nd outright behind Paul Morris in the CAMARO. Car pulled like a freight train on the straights and brakes were really good. Car is in one piece but I think may have finally hurt the motor, blowing a bit of smoke and losing oil pressure. Learnt heaps and had so much fun. Will look at the car after Targa Great Barrier Reef next weekend. A few pics of the weekend

Those are 2 very tidy cars, great effort.

All ready to go, did a track walk and was surprised by all surface and camber changes.

I've still got a few from members pack. Will get them on, get picks and post/tag on instagram. Known the business owners for a long time, spend a bit with them over the years and send lots of people their way. I was amazed by the support I've gotten considering everything that's been happening. For those that do the instagram thing can follow stuff over the weekend at robert_ponystumble

Maybe a 1000 or so for this event the main sponsor is a multi event thing that will be continual for the rest of the year.

Thanks Dan, definitely have a go yourself when it's time to paint yours. A stop off this morning for one of the sponsors and got in the local paper too. Should put on the SAU stickers.....

Thanks Yeah it's good enough for race car , I'm actually surprised but have learnt alot each time I do it. Those pads are going to cop it 5x 20min sessions with 2 big application a lap. I can't wait to see how much the time difference will be between them and my car. One of the drivers has had hers for 4 years and raced alot.

Apologies for not testing start up time got super busy. BIG UPDATE TIME After a 62hr round trip to Brisbane/Willowbank to grab the car have been busy fixing and tidying up the race. Get it off the ground, wheels off and Gurney everywhere to remove half of QR and barnfind dust. Got stuck in to replacing the busted tie rod end and as a precaution replaced both sides. This is how I managed to get it on the trailer after last archy session in March. Did a bolt check and checked fluids as they had done maybe 20mins of driving and were good. Did replace the brake fluid with some penrite 600f to hopefully keep a good brake pedal feel. Next was fixing up some of the paint and body damage from all the drifting. Ended up repairing the guards and skirts with a few patches but didn't get any pics. I started straightening the drivers door and got a bit carried away This was halfway through the repair. Also sanded the roof and a pillars as was never happy with the finish the first time. A few good layers of undercoat had everything looking heaps better so setup the spray booth and got on with laying colour. So with the car all assembled refitted up the te37s with fresh advan a050 in 255 all round Had a media thing with some local and supercars drivers Today had the sponsor stickers put on and now pretty much ready bar topping up fuel and going to the track. Should be a good weekend and great to finally drive the full Reid Park circuit hopefully get some coverage on fox's port.

Check that alternator is good and grounds are all clean. Sensor calibration is correct, Voltage drop will cause a lot of tuning issues if not stable.

s14/15 ball joints. I've always just used the complete control arm from s14/15 as provides a bit more clearance for wider wheels too.

Lol'd way too musch at this. Definitely put it in, as above with becoming familiar with the software but also niceties such as better fuel economy, cold/warm starts, closed loop boost control even diagnosing issues with igintion and sensors is so much easier as can log everything.

If there is no service history of the belt being done I would do it as seen a lot of subaru. They are easy to do with the right crank tool and 2 small sets of locking pliers. Edit: All you need is long 10mm socket to remove the timing cover bolts to get that one cover off for inspection

I've helped Eric get it alot better and his booked in to get his tune sorted. There is a lot of ecu set up things that weren't/still aren't perfect but can't do much from a different continent

Start up is a lot better with this version, will test it tomorrow and let you know

Can you send me a copy of your tune and I'll make the changes and do a step by step guide with screen shots to set it up properly. Happy to help and pass on some knowledge. It should be 15 degrees where 10 is.

You need to go into the link software Pclink and change the trigger offset to set base timing and not move the CAS. I set the CAS to middle position on the bolt holes, have pclink running with timing light setup and change the offset value to get base timing to 15 degrees. The help file is very good to help with the trigger offset, if this is not done correctly on initial setup it causes issues at every step of tuning same with fuel and ignition setup as I have found a few tuners that don't understand how all the maps integrate/reference with each other.

yes, can be used on CAN, OBD2, Consult too. Can add a gps unit for extra. Running a Link G4+ plugin at the moment.

Honestly can't remember what way as I don't have one. No it shouldn't. That solenoid should be screwed in

Adjust this screw, the iacv is under the plenum will need a short screwdriver