robbo_rb180

Here is all the points/information to pay attention too relating what info you need. You'll note I did give a very basic idea of what things to look for. 1st Have a sit down with your mate and look over his s14 with 1jz -take your car, a tape measure and note book. see how they did exhaust, fuel lines, wiring, cooling. 2nd Find someone with a falcon and do the above again 3rd Google every search combination of barra into skyline- don't bother asking forums for all the answers as no one has them. 4th use all of the above information to see what has to be done just it to fit the engine- If at this point you are still 100% and know what is required from YOUR research, crack on with the conversion. I've seen a r33 & s15 drift cars with this conversion done. Both cars had issues with keeping the engine cool, trans tunnels were hacked up, both ran standard nissan diffs & axels. Engine conversions are not simple and very time consuming and not all the info is on the internet.

Well wait for your mate to come through with the info then if your not willing to take the time to actually go and physically do anything yourself. If you were serious about building an r32 with front end weight in mind you would be looking at aluminium blocked 4 cyl or 6 cyl motors ( honda seem to be flavour of the youtubes atm). There is a lot of good points & information being given but you are obviously not willing to consider it. Having been involved in a lot projects with engine swaps there is many variables are that cannot be seen until you have an engine in the car and start getting on with it. You are obviously wanting a cheap bolt in solution as you have seen people do it with other swaps that are very popular and been done for over 10 years with a lot of aftermarket support. Barra into r chassis is not one of them due to a lot of the issues mentioned above. From your earlier posts you want reliability but I've seen plenty of barra failures too even built motors from workshops who are "specialists". No one here has used you as a punching bag- if the advice here has hurt your feelings, return to your safe space & log off the interwebs. And one major thing to add... This thread is nothing like a warzone talking from boots on the ground experience.

how about heading down to your local wreckers and asking them to weigh an engine for you........... Heres an idea- buy the rb factory mounts, an engine & drop it in. Its what about $700- 800 to do which is nothing in the scheme of things in regard to engine conversions. Will then tell you everything,if r32 were cheap (Sub $1000 where they should be) I would do it as I am bored of all this talk. BUY engine and get on with it!

No amount of internet knowledge compares to hands on experience.

I appreciate his attitude. The best way to get the information you need is to actually start the project or go to wreckers and start measuring & weighing parts like a lot of did a long time ago. The above link has enough info for me to plan this build. Weight difference between dressed motors is around 40kg from my few minutes of google search.......

No just sick of people trying to get the answers they want to hear. If you have never done an engine conversion that requires a lot of fab work and need the internet to tell you how it's done, you shouldn't even do it. How about you find some local workshops that do this kind of thing often and pick their brains or go buy an engine and tools/equipment to do the job BTW I am the saltiest fu(k3r you will ever meet.... cross member to sump clearance, steering shaft to exhaust, heat at brake master, will factory clutch master work, gearbox to tunnel clearance, fuel lines on the right side, radiator size, the extra 100kg over front Axel, how to unlock ecm, engine wiring, speed input, factory guages work, exhaust on wrong side, mod Castor brackets or rad support........ 2 mins and I have got that with out looking at an engine in the car. That is why I suggest to go buy an engine and sit it in there if you're not willing to do that then this idea will never happen.......

I use to use the motul 10-40 with no problems. Oil weight should reflect the local environment the car is driven in. 25-38C and 60-99% humidity where I lived when using it.

Don't bother as engine sits higher than r33/34 conversion unless fabricating custom mounts and sump. Motor is heavier so need to run heavier springs. Nothing wrong with the Nissan diffs they can take the power just need a good centre (nismo, tomei or cusco). Don't know about the shifter position but you'll be cutting the tunnel anyway. Buy a BF XR6 Turbo, get modded knuckles, trutrac diff and enjoy. Much nicer than a R32.

Maybe use a banjo fitting so it clears, don't they normally recommend 3/4 length injectors?

This has been done but to do it properly is time, money and skill. Need matching diffs, awd gearbox, atessa pump, 4wd controller, custom front hubs or graft in r chassis front, awd front subframe, modify chassis rails to clear driveshafts, modify floor pan- will need to modify tunnel and relocate seat mount. I looked into it and started collecting most of the big parts but stopped as I did not have the skills to fabricate the metal work required. I looked at using n15 pulsar front spindles and modified R32 shafts so could retain standard front end. Cheaper and easier to buy an awd car Fullraces s14 https://forums.nicoclub.com/full-race-s-new-r14-build-thread-t530203.html Australian awd s13 drag car. Made his own custom front spindles https://www.whichcar.com.au/events/drag-challenge/eight-second-all-wheel-drive-nissan-silvia-drag-challenge-2019 Pj s13 awd https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1041939785854147&id=303857756329024&set=pcb.1041940285854097&source=48&refid=13&__tn__=%2B%3D If your wanting better launches and traction control, get a decent aftermarket ecu, DBW conversion, front and rear wheel speed sensors, good tyres, quality suspension and alignment then set up traction & launch control.

a friend has had GT auto garage fix and tune his 34gtr with good results last year.

666DAN use to supply led conversion kits for various cars, try contacting him.

they do in 4th. When tuning with HPtuners need to "activate" lock up but can have trouble staying in lock up mode on a chassis dyno. Good result from a"standard" ls1. So when is blower being ordered?

Injector choice is one thing a lot of people don't understand that is important especially with a high powered flex fuel street car. Better off buying something that comes with all the info not just 2d deadtime/voltage offset. Want flow at diffrent pressures,min pulse width and pulsewidth adder. Places to look for data are https://www.deatschwerks.com/ https://fuelinjectorclinic.com/ECUData https://www.raceworks.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/LR-RW-DATA-INJ-CHARTS.pdf http://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/folders/263533

Couldn't find the exact injector but guessing would be something like these https://www.efisolutions.com.au/bosch-2000cc-fuel-injector-0-280-158-821 Spend the extra money on these, much better control at idle & cruise. Makes a massive difference when tuning if the injector is linear & comes with all the data to setup correctly http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id2000/

you may also find that there are differences in the body & engine looms between year of manufacture. 0 Did the new loom come with all the relays near the ecu? this will help with some diagnosis

Got plenty of room or just smack it with a hammer to make room. Need more than just a drain to help with oil issues- cam baffles, baffled sump, restrictors, oil pump, oil returns in the block, not hanging off limiter.....

Old school option for mounting. Lots of various options with a quick google search. Some will even retain vent functionality. If the car feels better coming onto boost its likely your tuner hasn't setup the haltech boost control properly. Generally ramp the duty cycle to 100% and taper it off to get desired boost level. Helps with larger turbos. Depending on the what haltech you have it will have open or closed loop options.

I think I read earlier you have a haltech, why are you not using that to control boost as is a lot better and can build in some safety?

Are you even doing it right if you don't get covered in fuel? Be interesting to see how it goes on the dyno before & after. Whats it making atm, 210-230kw?

https://www.rimtuck.com/

30 seconds into test drive

Good point. Was the car on e85 only when stored? could lead to moisture build up in the cylinder which leads to corrosion.

depends on how you drove it..... Tune maybe rich in some places & lean in others. Ignition timing would definitely not be optimal. How did it drive? Was it blowing smoke? Was the engine comp tested before being installed? I'd be doing a leak down test too. Get it running and redo comp test. Check oil & coolant to see if that is mixing or getting combustion gas in cooling system. My internet diagnosis is going to be blown head gasket between cylinders.

Welcome, that's cool sending the car back to Japan. You should do a full write up on the build of the 34 https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/