Daleo

Such a great colour.

Exactly; technically the spring really only needs to return the piston to it's seat after a pressure relief event. The spring in the OEM BOV is very light. Would it be possible to drill a pilot hole/bypass port (only 2-3mm dia) in the piston of the turbosmart to allow an amount of bypass air like a stock BOV? This might give the benefit of a better sealing BOV, without the issues with transient spiking.

Nah, I fitted an HDi intercooler kit for my tune a month or so ago, and fitted a thinner fan to suit; was SURE I had it going the right way. In traffic once the weather warmed up; the car seemed to be running hotter than I remember. Once moving; the temp would drop into the low 80's, high 70's; like normal. Sure enough; it was throwing hot air out through the grille; so I just had to pop the pins out of my connector, and switched them around; back to normal. Like I said; not a good week for me with electrical stuffz...

My stupidity apparently. I had Scotty send me an Attessa main relay, as I believed everything else was ok. After fitting it with no change; I then moved down the line to check for continuity at the fusible link, and discovered this; FYI; the centre pins are the 30A fusible link for the Attessa ETS. The 50A is the BCM fusible link. I'd checked this link before visually and was sure that it was ok; but I think the burned piece of the link must've just been sitting inside the connector; looking sneaky. When I popped the lid off to poke the multimeter probes in; my stupidity was revealed... ​Found the part on EPCdata, was quoted $35 each from Nissan Aust, so I'm going to grab a few online for $11ish (free delivery). Poked in new fusible link; no AWD light and pumpy noises. Happy days. Damn; I should've been a hand model...

For a complete set it's probably about as good as you'll do; I've seen tards asking $1k for just the fronts, with worn out rotors.

Love me some hoverstag action.

I wired up my aircon fan so that it blows instead of sucks. Amazing what correct airflow does on a warm day... Also sorted my AWD issue; many thanks to Scotty for his help in sending me bits I thought I needed, but didn't. Not my best week with electrical work this week...

But I don't have an S2000 or a Prius; nor have I ever run over a paver. This has no relevance to me.

Nominal rotor thickness is 30mm; lower limit after machining is probably 28mm. You'll need pair of vernier calipers to measure accurately.

Meh, I carved great chunks out of my FRP reo to fit a radiator; its the Stagea way. If you don't need to cut anything; you're not trying hard enough.

What are they? Black always looks great against the yellow.

Best of luck; hope you can get some advice.

Give Mark Stenberg a call; he has represented me several times with excellent results. He's a genuinely good guy who understands traffic matters, and is an avid Car and Motorbike enthusiast. http://www.lawstop.com.au/ My suspicion is however; you may have nowhere to go, as paying the fine is effectively the equivalent of an admission of guilt.

Agreed. Mine is a latching switch down next to my right knee; push it in, hold down brake lightly for 5 sec, push switch again to release; good to go for another week or more.

Jesus Christ, All that extra wiring and lines is hurting my brain! Don't you at least try to hide extra wiring in your engine bay? Why have you connected the BOV to the wastegate pressure reference line? The BOV needs a pressure/vac signal on the engine side of the throttle body. Without vacuum; the BOV won't open when the throttle closes.

A lot was from State registration authorities, but it is all contained in the Light Vehicle Modification Standard. The stuff about Police is from my own triumphant (and somewhat expensive) experience. They do not like me, and I do not like them. Never trust them; they are NOT your friends. Some Police are most very excellent, and are genuinely trying to do good; I like them. Most that I have come into contact with however; are ill educated, ex-schoolyard bullies with a f**king massive chip on their shoulders. They are generally easily identified by their poorly executed sleeve tattoos in my experience. Several have tried, and been found wanting. They will ALWAYS be Contstables from here on in.

The ruling on privacy glass is different to tint, as it isn't a film applied after manufacture. The Stagea has no alternative "clear glass" option, and all Stagea's have it; so the original approval for RAWS would have to cover the glass. RMS can't accept a vehicle for road registration in NSW, then reject the light transmission of the vehicles glass after the fact. It is a simple thing to verify whether glass is tinted, or dyed between the laminate, and RMS should be able to work that out. The Police cannot enter a vehicle without your permission, or without reasonable suspicion that you have committed a crime. The easiest way to stop this; is to lock the vehicle when you exit, and then they must request that you open it. You can then ask for what reason they need to look inside your vehicle, or whether you are being arrested and on suspicion of what crime this is happening. If they try the door of a locked vehicle they'll generally back off. You do not have to submit to search/seizure without reasonable suspicion; but the best way is to continue to verbally refuse to submit, and then if charged, you would likely have any charge thrown out either at hearing or on appeal to district court. You can then pursue any officer that has acted improperly through the PIC (Police Integrity Commission) this get extremely f**king uncomfortable for bullying Police; as they cannot refuse to be interviewed, and if your case is proven in the case of serious misconduct, their punishment can be extremely severe. Noise is measured at "Engine Speed at Maximum Power" ("ESMP") means the speed at which the engine develops maximum power (rpm). So on a car that they have no specific data for you would argue that the test would be done at 3600rpm It's also worth noting that the noise reading is taken from a steady state revving, and on the return to idle; not a sickcarnt mad limiter bash on the side of the road... Taken from http://www.ntc.gov.au/Media/Reports/(9745A524-E60D-9B7C-835B-CDAF7DC19D8B).pdf BOV is retarded; he knows it's legal, and is just being a pillock. The HID's will be an issue, as they are supposed to be removed at compliance; but most compliers don't, as they are far superior to a hacked up headlight with an H4 isert where there was never supposed to be one. Someone may have a set that have been hacked that you can borrow, but it would be difficult to assemble everything in the 2 day period specified. Honestly, this sort of thing does immeasurable damage to the reputation of Police in the wider community; we routinely see officers abuse the powers bestowed on them to punitively punish the people they are employed to protect. It leaves a really bad taste in my mouth, and I have very little respect for the "Force" as a whole. Individual officers can be absolute gems; but tossers like this one wreck it for all the good ones.

Nismo Duracon; end thread. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISMO-BLACK-Gear-Knob-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-Silvia-S13-S14-S15-180SX-350Z-370Z-/191703800534 The other I've used, is the MOMO Anatomico; really nice shape in your hand, and a subtle factory style look. I used the short version without the bottom collar, and modified the boot to fit right up against the leather.

Do you want to pop one in a postpak for me mate? Let me know what I owe you.

It's the same.

The connecting threads are M10. The only "Failures" I've seen are the result of people not tightening the locking nuts on the threaded section or on the aluminium "Turnbuckle" section; which allows the tread to fret, and eventually fail.

That's a win then! I like their products, but the fan does seem a little hit & miss on anything other than SR's. If it works in your application; you can't argue, and the price is right too.

Keep an eye on the GKtech fan; I ran one for a while and found that whilst it could control temps ok for a short while, temp would slowly rise in traffic until reached a point where it could no longer control, and temp would spike from high 80 to over 100 degrees in a very short time. This was whilst using a 3 core 50mm rad, and a brand new OEM fan clutch. Back to an OEM fan, with nothing else changed and the car would never go over 86 degrees in any scenario I know Mat Wooten (GeeTeeTee) had a very similar experience to mine with the GKtech fan. It also sounded like a low flying aircraft all the time which drove me mad. I had good success with a heat gun and a wooden roller on the shroud to push back the offending area that was fouling the fan under deceleration (engine mounts on the VQ are quite soft). Just keep a wet rag handy to cool the area your working on as the shroud can sag or go brittle if you overheat it.

The HD ball link is a lot nicer and more durable than the horrible loop style arrangement. If you purchase a Whiteline front and rear bar kit for the R and S chassis cars now; they actually include the HD ball links. They also deal much better with angular misalignment than the loop style ones; as they often just pop the bush out of the eyelet. I can supply these for a pretty decent price if you're interested; shoot me a PM.

Oh noes, what a fool I feel now! Where have you been all my life to assist with my big life decisions? Bite me champ.