Daleo

I have a 30 metre long driveway; that might be free of bikes on a weekend. Maybe not though. Seriously; unless you want to sit in Auburn Macca's carpark or sit in traffic; there will be bikes on any decent road you choose. At least the Putty run isn't choked with douchebags on their way to Ikea.

Do the walking frames get stuck in the grass? *Due to the lack of emoticons; this should be seen as a subtle dig.

Quoted for nagging.

I would highly recommend going over the alloy subframe with a fine tooth comb to look for damage. Check ALL welds and all sections carefully for cracks or stresses. Also have a think about the arms you put back in; if you use stronger ones they will no longer be the "fusible link" in the chassis and you may destroy the subframe instead.

QFT; Remsa's are awesome; so is GSL Rallysport!

I run Gulf Western Syn-X 6000 5W/40. No diesel here.

Shouldn't be noisy at all. Maybe a worn timing chain? Could have had a haircut, and be wearing significantly more kays.

Is there a intermediate cable up the middle?

Doesn't work, rego authorities don't recognise your car in it's de-turboed state. They will deem it to be turbocharged, and fine her accordingly. Buy her something cheap, safe & reliable, and go from there.

I have seen Nissan handbrake cables seize plenty of times before; have any of you actually disconnected one of the wheel cables to see if it is free or seized?

Those rates seem very soft; your supplier should know that the attachment point of our springs & shocks are in from the ends of the arms which requires heavier rates to accommodate the extra leverage. The rear spring seats are only just past the middle of the arm, and the front struts attach around 75% of the length of the arm.

You know where to find me brah.

Not a damn thing wrong with the RDA H/D pads. For the $35 per end I paid for mine a couple of years back they did a damn good job. You're right about RDA's but only compared to 4000 series and up. My understanding is, they're basically a trade servicing rotor; whereas DBA 4000 & 5000 series are a much higher carbon content, and hence much tougher & resistant to repeated heat cycling. On a street car (which is 90% of Stageas) the RDA's are up to the job.

Mine don't, and the little bugger is black too. So hard to hit in the dark.

Spotted a white AXIS on the M4 this arvo; nice ride mate, like the plates too! Y u no wave back?

Pffft. 'Sif they can get up when they're hands are cable tied behind their backs. Oh, wait; your OWN kids. Nevermind.

Only if it is actually shorter.

Floor is too shallow, headroom would be terrible. Also having a false floor would make engineering seat mounts and keeping it neat, very expensive. Buy an Odyssey or an Elgrand.

Lol, no mate; don't drill the hole out. Preload basically means that the arm will be too short to reach the pivot pin on the Wastegate arm. You'll need to pull against the actuator spring and stretch it into position. That extra stretch is preload.

My actuator has almost 5mm of preload, the stroke of the thing is huge. The hole Craig is talking about is the hole in the Wastegate arm, that the pivot pin goes through. Boring out the Wastegate isn't going to make it hold boost better, if anything; it will allow you to bleed boost pressure more easily. It would be worth doing if you were building boost pressure uncontrollably, but you have the exact opposite issue.

Unless the rotors are near their limit; why not just get them skimmed?

You're right OS8ORN; from my understanding, the rwd subframe is spot on. It's only auto awd subframe that is an issue.

I was too busy welding today. I'll do the next one.

Had my drivers side front wheel bearing replaced this morning; nice & quiet again. Not doing it myself was the best $160 I've spent this week. God I'm lazy.

But is it fully sik uleh?