Daleo

What is the dia of the front bar? I have a set of 22mm billet lateral locks at home; but they only cost about $20 a set, so I can source them for you if you like?

If the lip seal on the drive leaks; due to the mounting position, the sender (which is just an encoder) can fill with oil. I've seen this a couple of times on r31's, which use a similar setup.

http://youtu.be/aFd5Cci_pE4?t=54s

There's always a way...

+1. Once you've had a couple of goes; it gets easier.

Er, no. It's estimated that in 35% of fatal motorcycle accidents involve another vehicle turning DIRECTLY across the path of a motorcycle that is being being operated within the speed limit and within it's own lane. That's ONE specific type of driver error accounting DIRECTLY for 35% of ALL motorcycle fatalities. By my schoolboy maths, this leaves only 65% to account for all other types of motorcycle fatalities. It doesn't account for any other type of aberrant driver behaviour, and supports the theory within the motorcycling community; that drivers are out to kill us. Because they are. The hoon=enthusiast argument is one being cleverly exploited by the mainstream media, and deliberately marginalises legitimate road users simply because they like cars, and lumps them in with every dickhead who ever did any stupid thing in a car. It's an equation we need to spend more time opposing.

Where's the fungin like button on this forum!

Yep, the Legalis is a damn fine system.

Sounds quite nice actually. Very nicely fabricated too.

650rpm idle is actually spot on. Fuel economy depends on your right foot, but average can be between 550-650km per tank depending on how much stop start/highway you do.

I've never really understood the hoopla surrounding brake dust; I'd rather have brakes that stop like a heart attack, than sook about some dust on my rims. Besides, if your wheels are coated properly, and if you use the right kind of wheel cleaner; it's a simple job to clean them anyway... I saw a quote a while back "Brake dust is my bling" I like it.

Remsa pads; also available through GSLRallysport are excellent. ​Dustier than QFM HPX, but apparently GSL were phasing out the HPX in favour of the Remsa's as their "Go to" pad. Sits squarely between the HPX & AR1M pads for heat range, but not hard on rotors or noisy. Around $90 per end.

Bowdens Own reckon their Autobody cleanser is supposed to be quite good for this too.

Why not throw your airbox back on and then you can eliminate the pod from the equation? Cleaning the AFM couldn't possibly hurt.

Bang on Scotty, most honest turbo builders acknowledge that if you're putting a brand new BB core on an old engine; it can very easily fail due to oil contamination. Given the access issues with our set up; where do you have the filter? Is it straight out of the feed port on the block?

I actually spat my drink at the computer. Thanks for making my day.

The bar could be sliding to one side causing the issue you describe.Check it & see if it's off centre. You might need a set of lateral locks on the bar.

Try gkech for a better version of the first cooler.

I think it's just the lighting; looks like the cad plating to me. Not rust.

Spotted a black C34 in Springwood this arvo.

Depends, if the refrigerant gets below a certain pressure; the compressor will not engage. This is to protect the compressor from damage. Could even be a relay or fuse issue with the aircon clutch?

I was more thinking of the kind of damage you get with a burnt exhaust valve; a small leak allows a flame path across the seat; cuts through like an oxy. There's more than enough heat & pressure to do it. This kind of thing; or this; Less aggressive, more like erosion.

Enjoy the new ride Jules, you can always come back online and get a quick fix... At least you didn't buy a Trabant...

Pitting or damage on the seating faces?