Kinkstaah

And for the diff lovers or haters out there, here is some of the diff noise (???) I found when the mic was either inside the car, or inside the boot. The sound gets louder as it's different clips smashed together, two instances in each file. At all times I was pretty much cruising along in 5-6th gear at 80-100kmh where it is most noticeable. I would have _thought_ I would hear this with the mic outside the car on the rear bumper but apparently not. It disappears or strongly dissipates when clutched/off throttle in and appears to be speed dependent, i.e there's next to no noise at 60kmh or under. Whine.wav WhineBoot.wav Diff? Clutching in does stop the noise, but that is also disconnecting load from it. At higher RPM I can't be sure, as the engine drowns out the noise. It could also be T56 gear rollover. tbh I have nfi whatsoever. FWIW, first file is from the back seats, second file is with the mic inside the boot. Edit: 5 seconds of googling I found this: In other words, I'm pretty confident my OEM Helical diff's bearings have the same problem as shown in the above video lol.

I purchased these, but due to a wedding which necessitated a road trip to Adelaide, a pet emergency (which cost $10k, but some things are worth this coin) and a house extension, I didn't get around to this until today. I tested on the bumper, inside the car, and inside the boot. Other than hearing mysteriously diffy noises from inside the car and inside the boot, the ones on the bumper are here for review, in the location that old mate in the previous link said. BUMPER123_220406_0475.wav BUMPER123_2_220406_0477.wav

Hey now, it's also in the profile thingy on the left side of the profile too!

Hey mate, my sedan is a R34 Series 2 GTT. From memory you need 2x nut per door as per the image in the linked thread which also is correct. You'll be happy every time you open a door, which when you think about it, is at least 200%+ of the time you drive the vehicle.

Mal Wood, most of the details are in the build thread (which really kicks off mostly with the LS Conversion). If it was a track only car, and you can delete aircon, PS, don't care about other things etc you MAY MAY not need to. I needed to. 😛

Sorry, I did check but it's so damn close down there that I honestly can't get close enough to find a part number or anything like that. I'm trying to remember where I sourced it from or how, but it could be that it either was provided when I bought the gearbox or something along those lines. I know you definitely need one because the clutch doesn't disengage properly without one, and you definitely want to be checking that a million times and measuring when you use a starter motor relocation kit. We assumed we wouldn't need 2 spacers (there was one with the starter relocaiton kit) and found out my clutch was not disengaging... ever. Which lead to a clutch failure at the track down the line. I just checked my messages and I believe the guys that helped with the fab sourced the Wilwood item (they do many T56/LS swaps into things) and used this master because they pretty much always use that master because they know it works and don't have to rely on converting OEM things. So my answer is "Something Wilwood that is suitable for a T56"

I went and checked mine just for you - I used a wilwood clutch master. Keep in mind the clutch reservoir they provide is _SHIT_. It leaked many times and in the end I used a commodore clutch reservoir for the fluid.

I'm not saying merely fuel cut is somehow superior, I was really just saying it is no issue with regards to the factory ABS sensors being unsuable as a metric for wheel speed. It absolutely does work, and doesn't have errors and doesn't need less teeth to work or what have you. More control is more better, I agree - But it's just one of those things where minimal config gives max results. It is in effect a cylinder cut system, but even on a Haltech I can't see anyone attempting to layer them over the top, because running on 5cyl instead of 6 is a very effective cut (or 7/8), and at 5000rpm this is an effect that is 'polling' very, very frequently, it feels pretty damn seamless. More control is more better, but sometimes it pays to not overcomplicate things for no real benefit, that's all.. I do have a rotary switch with mine (but even so, I usually leave it at 10%), and you can configure how aggressive the cylinder cuts with TC in stages, i.e At X% slip, use this cut pattern, at Y% slip use this cut pattern, at Z% slip use this cut pattern, etc. The benefit of having a Haltech is at MASSIVE slip scenarios, if you have a fuel controller or such your car will actually know about it, and not think the car is just running mysteriously lean and run into limp mode/engine protection. Or at least you'd hope it would know about it! If you get such a system, just experiment with cyl cut and you will likely find thats all you need 😛

I guarantee the nissan wheel speed sensors work fine from 4km to 250kmh on 265/35/18 tyres. It isn't too many to pick up and absolutely works entirely fine. The system I use (and the RaceTCS one) cuts fuel. It is more than enough to lower the car's speed and using anything else is just fussing around for no reason. It does work better in V8 land though, due to the linear power delivery than it did when I was I6T. It's pretty much a set and forget system. I wouldn't be bothering with anything other than fuel cut, using throttle sounds good, lowering boost sounds good, changing ignition timing sounds good but in the real world I just can only imagine scenarios where it doesn't cut enough to cause the slip to take effect. In my scenario the time that traction is cut is tiny fractions of a second, it loses and regains grip much quicker than I would expect any boost controller or throttle blade to react. You do not notice the actual cuts when they happen - The car just feels like it has grip on the ground, in 1st at WOT. Then you turn it off to test and you're amazed. This is the way.

..... I use the factory ABS/wheel speed sensors just fine? Perhaps the Racelogic system is different? There is another system which is standalone (www.raceTCS.com) which is another option.

I have implemented traction control with a RWD R34 GTT and using a Racelogic system. They generally work the same, they measure front wheel speed and rear wheel speed, and if there is a difference between them, then they do "Something" "Something" is user definable in all of the ECUs that manage this. This is all they really do, they can cut timing, ignition, fuel, boost, etc (pending on system) in order for the difference in wheel speeds to catch up again. TBF, the AWD system in a GTR really is just a mechanical traction control system to begin with...

I'm erring on the side of 'no' in terms of "will they fit without modification". They are much closer to 'you need flares/gtr guards' to fit these comfortably spec if you want a huge meaty 275+ tyre on them etc. They probably could work if you went aggressive with very stretched tyres, and a lot of camber and rolled all the lips on the guards. It will compromise the car a fair bit in terms of actual grip. I have a 34, but wheel fitment with regards to 33 and 34's is generally similar. To be 100% sure, find out the difference between your current rims with a site like www.willtheyfit.com by putting the specs in, and go measure

In my experience, this actually does matter - The position of the IAT sensor doesn't matter with regards to the temperature when I have tested. I've tested it in the tube next to the TB, in the tube at the start. In the airbox, inside the pod filter, as well as in the manifold! The biggest change was ducting cold air from the outside and making a sealed system. I agree - The air will not get heat soaked by the time it gets through the motor, but it will suck already hot air from the engine bay as a preference if it can, because that hot air is closest to the filter/intake. (this is in N/A land). You can't duct your already compressed/hot air to overcome this, because well, it's hot due to the fact it is boosted. I now reguarily see air temps that are 0C hotter than outside. Went for a drive recently and my IAT's were about 12C while beating the hell out of the car. Ducting really does work. Removing the duct and letting it grab heat from the wheel well resulted in 38-40C air because oil cooler is hot, brakes are hot, and it'll grab the nearest air it can (round headlights and shit which is semi-engine bay hot)/through the rad hot. Again not super relevent to your boosted setup 😛

I can see it being logical for pre-cooling the intake charge before it's actually being used. Kind of like dumping dry ice on an intercooler directly.... I.e waiting in line for your start at the drags, or driving around before you want to chop someone on the highway lol, and it would be a net benefit for @mlr's use. However for say some dickhead who decided to supercharge his LS in a skyline, then wanted to do 30 minute hotlapping sessions, at 100% throttle for extended periods well and far beyond a drag run, in a very limited packaging situation with IAT's being extreme, (70+++). I can still see the subjective benefits of generally keeping IAT's lower rather than higher which is more than just pure power tbh. Keeping it lower makes sense. But I'm still curious as to whether it would actually increase RWKW in the long run and/or actually still _work_ when the engine is under load like that. Would the motor just generate too much heat for the AC system to overcome?

Can I have this in laymans terms? Or.. more layman? Would this actually work as a net positive? Assuming the scenario where you're belting the car around a racetrack for 30 minute sessions, with the AC compressor on the entire time... assuming as well that it is geared to not overdrive itself at a hypothetical 7000rpm. Would there be a power gain by having a 1C IAT instead of say 25C, and would it offset the parasitic loss from driving the AC compressor?

Just keep in mind this kit insults the laws of thermo dynamics. It WILL solve your issues by running the kit before you launch the car and having IAT _before_ you drive. However if you're driving all the time with the system on, your AC must also always be on. You will lose more power driving the AC compressor than you will get from colder IAT's. Damn you, fundamental laws of the universe. (it however could reduce knock etc, be more consistent though).

That is awesome, provided you have a water to air cooler already... Now I want it... even though it is entirely unusable for me.... how do I run a water to air cooler and an interchiller while being N/A lol, I demand sub zero temperatures!

Post steak vids or GTFO. Cmon man, I set an example (and my example was so bad I intend to do it again, with better gear (when it arrives tomorrow...) Also I drove a M3 Competition in anger for a couple of hours recently. It absolutely doesn't compare to my own abomination. Yours likely similar. You lust after what you do not understand, stay away gateway german appliances, lest you spend much more on more expensive appliance in the future!

Due to the frustration of a mic, I have now gone to https://www.autoxandtrack.com/autocross-track-videos-sound-amazing-external-mic/ and literally purchased the exact microphone and wind sock used in that page for further testing. Cheaper options may work, but yes I've spent $100+ to deliver better sound for your hearing pleasure (and mine)

Turns out my lapel mic is not the best thing for capturing sound that is not directly in the mic. It's this, but much louder and clearer.... so generally betterer-er 1220306_0455.wav

Gougers gonna gouge. (98 ftw)

You know, I do have a gopro with external mic and back in the day was going to do testing with regards to its location, right near the tailpipe just blows the mic out by maxxing it out when used. I was going to test it as a lapel mic to determine the 'in car sound'. So maybe I'll get onto that... for... testing..

I know what you are referring to and no there is no intake. It sounds a little like a turbo in a weird way, if you can imagine a throttle 'echoing' as it opens (think honda VTEC style when you slam open the throttle). The gf was like "What is that weird whistling sound?" at idle, which is my intake coming in through the bumper vents. It's not really that audible, the car as a whole sounds a lot more exhausty than before (but more growly, unsuprisingly similar to 'growler' intakes for LS1's) because the airbox is now sealed up effectively making it quieter. In short it's more of a unified sound, instead of ENGINE BAY and EXHAUST sounds being two seperate things. It's nice.

The above example actually showed air temps of about 35-40C at the top of Lake Mountain, when I got out of the car and it was about 10C by my uncalibrated... skin, with snapshots like this: ^--- This is well worth watching form the point I timestamped with regards to IAT and Naturally aspirated performance. TLDR: 306 to 332kw by reducing IAT from 50C to 33C. In short, I was pretty convinced the pod was sucking in hot air from the bay itself, as opposed to anything outside the car. Can it take two months to make an airbox? Hell yes it can! I did originally chase up many fabricators but the wait times are extreme. Then someone at work mentioned I technically have all the tools available to make the bits I had assembled into an airbox, as I was planning on changing this: https://justjap.com/collections/cold-air-box-kits/products/sri-alloy-cold-airbox-kit-nissan-skyline-r33-r34-stagea-c34-rb25det Into something that would fit my setup. I had also purchased this kit -> https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/cold-intake-shield from the USA to aid in this as well, as I figured if I'm going all out, I'm going all out, and they also have a supporting video here with regards to how well this stuff works/doesn't work: Below are my horrific home made install pictures. "enjoy" Note, this foam is utter shit, and did not hold up to anything. t has since been replaced with door liner and coated in flashing tape (my god I love flashing tape) which is much MUCH more durable but there's no photos of this right now. I was very proud of relocating my charcoal canister, too. All excited, I went to test it out! $300 tow later, I cursed my alternator pulley which decided to not exactly be bolted on too well, received_315874983709498.mp4 Fun times. With this pulley sorted out, and new belt on, and about 6 hours pulling bits of old belt out of my aircon compressor cover later... it is now spinning true. However, my data from this drive was not really sufficient. I suspected that the holes in the bottom of the chassis weren't really doing great for pulling in cold air, given it's a low pressure area, one side is right next to the tyre/brakes which are quite hot, and the other side is directly behind my oil cooler. Not really ideal. I knew that this cooler used to be on the other side of the car, when the RB was still in it as the oil block is on that side in a RB, so I decided oh yes, it's time to move it on back and get ducting. This was much harder than I thought it was gonna be in my mind, but after some umm'ing and ahh'ing (pictured) I realised it could be made to work, and set about buying some hose (for $120) and learning how to remove and refit AN fittings, and flipping my accusump around so it pointed the other way. And voila, the oil cooler magically changed sides, right in time for me to forget how to make it actually clear the front bumper! Pictured: Seconds before pain Utterly confused, I consulted my own photos to see if I had any for how this thing used to be mounted before I did the swap, and found this photo: ...clearly showing some kind of 'spacer' So I cut up an old TV Antenna that we had laying in the front yard to use as my new spacers. I also mangled the previously well made bracket to make it kind of all fit solid. If it's stupid but it works..... I then tightened the ever living shit out of the fittings, every single one of them put 8.5 liters of oil into the car (which was supposedly 'full, and I only lost 1.2 liters from taking the cooler off...) and started it up to find the tiniest weep from one of the fittings which was sorted by a bit more brute force. It was time to get duct, now that the space was cleared: This is 2x 100mm piece of ag pipe, courtesy of bunnings, just running up to the OG intercooler holes which feed the airbox from underneath. Yes I'm aware the holes are 82/72mm or so, and my actual intake tube is 100mm, but I figured I could overcome inefficiencies with brute force. I also get a very nice intake sound now from inside (and outside lol) the car. However, it clearly works - Tested yesterday with about 20C ambient temps, i.e not ontop of a mountain: So the car is somewhat accidentally tuned rich now as the ECU now thinks the air is much colder (because it is), and oh man does the car feel much better at 20C than it does at 45C or 70C in traffic. 194kmh was recorded at the uh, private 1/4 mile strip I had access to... and 120MPH trap speed is really very high for what is a cam only LS1, take note @mlr :p, and there's probably more in it given the AFR is very fat indeed and should be at ~12.7 to 13.0 instead of 11.4. So yeah. Massive DIY success! Now to ... retune.

I genuinely enjoy cruising around in an auto 2008 Hyundai Accent when I just want to go places and don't want any fuss, performance or emotion and just look out the window all tranquil like when I commute about, so I understand the above post and where you're coming from.