GTSBoy

I'm thinking it is skinny NA Neo port sizing and cams. Somehow.

Photo of manifold showing gate location? I mean, it's 6Boost, so we probably shouldn't be worrying, but always wroth knowing what the layout is. Plumbed back to atmosphere? Or into the dump?

^ This is all good advice. I can imagine that there's some passive components in the HVAC controller that run that PWM output that could die, or suffer bad solder joints. It can be worth opening it up, taking a schmooze around looking for swollen electro caps, evidence of liquid escape anywhere, tracks that have been hot, lifted, cracked, etc. A DMM might not be suitable for seeing if the PWM output is pulsing. Might be too fast and too low voltage for a DMM to keep up. An analogue voltmeter might give a better hope. I use a handheld oscilloscope (<$100 from Aliexpress if you want something cheap). A DMM might see the voltage across the motor flicker. Otherwise, as above. If you can successfully see PWM action, then the control side should be good. If you can't see it with what you have, you might need to step up the instrumentation used, as above. Beyond that, and dbm7's advice on testing the motor directly, you're down to looking for broken wires, corroded connector pins, etc.

Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.

The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.

No. GKTech arms have spherical bearings in them. No bushes. You will not need bushes for those arms. The sphericals are a bit of a maintenance nightmare. I have replaced all of mine several times in the 5 or so years I've had them, and I have the arms out regularly to clean and lube the balls. Worth the pain on an R32, because the standard arm design is trash. If you need the camber adjustment, there are other options (than the GKTech ones), although I would still lean towards and prefer the GKTech ones, even with the maintenance load of the sphericals. The caster adjustment is also highly valuable, allowing for setting the car up to drive straight. There are a million options for these, including the GKTech ones. I've had Tein rods on mine for 20 years and the balls are much less trouble in that location. Never given me a moment's pain. All positives, no negatives. I consider them compulsory.

Most driving should* be done on one side of single lane divided roads. In the RHD world, you drive on the left side of the dividing line and the road is probably cambered equally on both sides. So your side of the road slopes away to the left. The same is true for the LHD world, just everything swapped to the other side and opposite slope. With a perfectly neutral, straight ahead wheel alignment designed to drive straight on a perfectly flat surface (or at least one that is level on the left-right axis, even if it has some slope in the fore-aft axis) you will not be able to drive on a cambered road without the car wanting to drift down the camber. You will need to add steering input in the opposite direction all the time. This is annoying. The solution has always been to set the camber and/or the caster to produce a continuous turning force in the opposite direction of the camber. The car will drive straight on the kind of camber for which it was set up, presumably as described in the top paragraph. But.... when the car is set up this way, as soon as you get into a lane, usually on a multi-lane surface road or highway, where the camber is not as presumed during setup, the car will usually pull to one side. In the RHD world, if you are in the fast lane on a big divided road, you are probably on the opposite camber compared to what the car was set up for (ie, sloping down to the right) and the combination of the setup and that camber will make the car want to go right pretty hard. Even a perfectly flat lane will tend to want to go right. There's no getting around it. Civil engineers who know their stuff (which is not an assumption that can always be made) will attempt to keep the variation in camber across a multi-lane road as small as possible, and if they can will attempt to make the fast lane as close to flat, or even cambered in the same direction as all the other lanes. This takes a lot of planning for drainage, control of levels, ability to deal with the elevation changes that occur at road junctions, etc etc. So it's not trivial to get it right. When they do make it work, then the annoyance is reduced, along with tyre wear, fuel consumption, etc. In theory, the civil engineers are supposed to worry about those aspects of road design also. * This used to be true, but now with very large highway systems, even just multi-lane surface roads running everywhere, it is less true now than it was, but the old assumption is the basis for describing the phenomenon, so let's just run with it for the moment.

What do you mean by "seals"? Internal hydraulic seals (ie, is it leaking PS fluid?) or the rack boots that close the rack onto the tie-rods? Because the former is a rebuild, and the latter is trivial that you or any nearby mechanic could do. Dunno about the cowl. Just buy what you think is required and get anything else you find/break afterwards. Wing? Dunno. Don't like R33s enough to pay attention to them. Mirror glass is just glass (on the surface that you want to polish). Go for it.

440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.

thumbsup

Brother-in-law's workshop. And I'll be doing. Family doesn't get priority over long running customer jobs. It wouldn't normally take so long to get to a task of mine, but there was a series of unfortunate events involving the dyno (blowing it up) that caused a serious backlog in the normal workload, that has toaken literally forever to get out from underneath. I can't do, or more to the point, choose not to do, jobs at home that require tools I don't have or would leave me without my daily if something goes wrong that thwarts me. Gearbox out on the floor with chassis stands is not palatable when I can use a hoist at the shop. But I've only had the box for a few weeks. It's the injectors and AFM that have been waiting on access to the dyno.

Big brain energy.

Oh, you know I want to. I've been wanting a Hartley 1GZ for long enough that it's causing me to rock in the corner like kid on far end of the spectrum. I'll have to double down on the retirement strategy (which extends only to X lotto tickets at this point).

All of that can be photoshopped. Drop skid vid.

A broken Skyline?

Just ask Import Monster or Streeter or equivalent to keep an eye out for you?

Shut up you. All I'm hearing these days is "GTSBoy needs to put in a V8 with paddle shifted transmisision" and I don't like feeling pressured to spend money to make my car fun. I want to be able to grumble about how slow it is, largely because I haven't spent any money to make it fast!

I was immediately reminded that your location is QLD. Sounds like a perfect SEQ business idea.

I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.

Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.

Yeah, the thread is only nearly 20 years old.

This. They would need some tricky maneouvering to keep the income out of the country (the US). Which isn't helpful if that's where you want the income to end up.

I'd suspect it's an M10x1.0 before I'd think it's an M11. Just go down to the bolt shop and buy a few different sizes?

Oh. I did misunderstand.

No, I didn't misunderstand. I showed that tee because that is the threaded hole that you need a banjo bolt to go into yes? Two of them, one either side of the tee. The through hole in the tee is the 12x1.25 into the block.