GTSBoy

You're talking about the big red power wire with the inline fuse? It's a big red power wire with an in-line fuse.

Right smack bang in the centre of what? The engine, or the injector?

What he was saying is check for continuity to EARTH at the fuse box. If one side is power and the other side is continuous to earth, then when you put a fuse in, you have a short circuit (where you really really shouldn't).

Humblebrag? Whinge? Advice needed? What is it about?

If there's no short to earth then there shouldn't be a reason for a loose terminal to cause the fuse to blow. Well, obviously the + lead can only touch the thing that it is supposed to touch on the alternator stud. There really shouldn't be an easy way to short the + lead to the alternator body. There is supposed to be an insulating washer on most B+ studs (and on the D+ also). See below

My thinking is that mech driven AC comps use a couple of horsepower to drive them. So, if an elec AC comp was in some way super efficient and only used 1500W, it would still pull >100A on a 12V feed. I think the electric AC systems are from electric cars with much higher voltage supplies available.

Surely this is just screaming out for either an electric AC compressor or an electric PS pump to solve the problem? Guessing PS pump the lower power/easier option.

Wot? This one?

Get a wiring diagram before you set fire to it.

Oh, and check your thread title - that was the initial source of the confusion. I already knew you were working on an R33, but the mention of R32 derailed my thinking.

I realise this, but...... it's still useful. Simple things like what the main fuse runs and what the wiring near the alternator looks like don't tend to change much. Notwithstanding that, the R33 drawings are out there too.

The auto transmission shifter does not go into a hole in the top of the tranny. The shifter connects to a rod that runs down the side of the tranny. The manual gearboxes have a hole in the top of the box for the shifter to go into.

Are you seriously doing this without having the car's wiring diagram? It's freely available on the internet. I even made the best resolution scans I could and posted them on this very forum a year ago or so.

Simply not true. Do not even consider them. This is concerning. What about the ECU? Many people have used them successfully. But Joshua's warning above applies - to some extent. Quality control is not necessarily excellent. That depends on what you mean by "hybrid". It's a pretty meaningless thing to talk about a hybrid Mamba. Hybrid with what exactly? Myself personally? I would not consider an "eBay" turbo for a car that I like. Only for a shitbox. If you just want an easy bolt on turbo option, then you would be well advised to send your stocker to Tao at Hypergear for a highflow. It will meet your specifications for good spool, will be easy to fit, and will make plenty of power. The only downside is having to send it halfway around the world and back to get it done. There are probably turbo builders in your part of the world that can do a highflow, but we can't comment on how good they are. Tao is good.

Is that really going to be true of an NA GTS4 though? I mean....who would want one, at any price?

Hmm. You might be right. I just looked on mine (32, not 33). I have some sort of a little magnetic switch (or something ish) attached to the latch in the lid with a red/black pair, and in the same loom there's a brown/black pair with a 2 pin connector, not attached to anything. It's near the latch, not halfway up the boot lid frame like the OP's photo. It's strange. I've always known that that loom was strapped to the boot frame, yet always assumed that the light switch was near the light itself / the hinge.

Yuh, so both the solenoid and the bootlid stop light would have been aftermarket additions, not factory, hence my reference to an assumption of not being able to find it on the wiring diagram. Wiring diagram being the first port of call for answering these questions. And....is the switch for the boot light not adjacent the hinge, and not down in the "slam violently" zone near the latch? The wiring for a switch near the hinge would also be shorter and more efficient than unnecessarily locating it at the latch.

There's only 2 reasonable guesses, if you can't find it on the wiring diagram. One would be for a lock solenoid. The other would be for a spoiler mounted high level brake light.

If you're going to have an RB26 (assuming turbo) whichever way you go, then.....it would be sensible to not consider whether the starter car was turbo or NA. it won't matter, because it will be an RB26 turbo either way. Go GTS4.

Yeah. The spring was the leading theory, but clearances could also be responsible. It's hard to understand how the spring could fail in a way that does it intermittently. Maybe it's gummed up with something, maybe it's broken in some weird way. Hence the proposed disassembly. Am hoping that some aerosol maintenance (spray solvent followed by silicone lube) is all that is required, because who the hell could tell if the clearance was correct, right? I hope I don't f**k it up. This speedo is literally accurate to the km/h across pretty much the whole range (at least for the 99% of the time it's not being possessed by the devil).

It's still doing it at odd intervals. Mostly on the first drive of the day, but tonight it was fine on the way to the pizza shop, but was reading nearly double as I drove away from the shop. Factor is not 2x. Is about 170/90 = 1.9:1 or thereabouts. Is most disconcerting having the speedo wound off the dial while still only doing ~110. I think I'm going to have to spend a day taking it apart after Xmas day and putting it on the healing bench to see if it will fix itself.

First things first. Install fuel pressure gauge between engine bay fuel filter and fuel rail. Check for correct fuel pressure at idle, at low load and, if these look fine, at higher load. Maybe first things before the first thing. Take apart what you've just done and see whether you have failed to make a connection properly and something is leaking in the wrong spot. Broken wire at crimp terminal, etc etc.

This. If you're using Haltech (or equivalent) and the available engine protection, you'd be mad to not also be using the Haltch (or equivalent) dash with all the information presentation options leveraged.

Small vacuum in the tank is normal, and shows that everything (or at least most of the purge system, at least) is working normal.