GTSBoy

One is definitely a 'shop of the other, but the two questions are; Which is the original? Who cares?

Take it to a mechanic who has a proper scan tool.

Waste of time and effort. Plaything only.

Well.... maybe. What TCU is there? Keep in mind that a NEO ECU either expects to also be the TCU (when it's out of a GT-T) or it expects to talk to a separate TCU. There are specific bits of information that go backwards and forwards between these boxes, and it is almost certain that a Z32 TCU won't speak the right dialect. If you were using an aftermarket ECU with the Neo, it would probably be a lot easier. And in fact, these days people like Haltech are rolling transmission control into their ECU's capabilities because of just these problems. It would also be possible to go a standalone aftermarket TCU, although that might be difficult to integrate properly with a factory Neo ECU, for the same reasons again. If it is in an R31, and behind an RB, then someone has probably put it together, because the VG bellhousing is not the same as the RB bellhousing, even if there are usually similar gearboxen hanging off the back of them. Google search of 51x00 shows up many parts that refer to Z32, but that may or may not mean anything. The number also shows up some Maxima parts (which were also VG, but FWD) and so it is possible that it pertains to a whole slew of Nissan trannies.

You wanna buy some? There really aren't any available. You wanna sell them? $750. :D Prices have been going up quite a lot. I would contemplate offering you $1500. I can't see how the drug money trend for people to be asking heaps more than that can be justified for 27+year old seats. You can get good carbon Bride reps w/o rails for ~$1300 at the moment, which would objectively have to be substantially better seats (ie, the foam won't start orange dandruffing out the bottom!). But you might be able to convince someone who really really wants some to pay a lot more than I would.

Is it RWD? Could be Z32.

Any alarm at all. Anything with a snake name. Anything from Jaycar. Anything from almost anywhere so long as it isn't the cheapest, nastiest 3rd shift China-Bay spec. It's not like car alarm technology has actually moved along in any meaningful way in the last 20 years. Remote start and pagers and all that stuff are just fairy floss window dressing. The alarm needs to have black wires, sufficient relay interlocking to properly immobilise the vehicle and the right combination of sensors for your purposes. A tilt switch for example, to help with tow truck style thieves. And a 120+dB siren, in the cabin.

PowerFC is also not really an upgrade from a Wolf either. Same ancient history. An upgrade would have been manufactured this year.

NAs have no rear ARB mounts on the body, so you will need to get those.

You don't need to worry about the suspension. GTT have fork type rear dampers. Your car has eyelet type. But that's the same as R33 GTST, so not problem, there is suspension available. Your rear subframe won't have HICAS. Win. That's one less thing to worry about. Your car won't have traction control. So if/when you put a factory Neo RB25DET ECU into the car, it will chuck the shits at you because not TCS computer and probably no ABS computer eithers. You will need Nistune to dial that out, or an aftermarket ECU. You will need the engine bay loom, and the driver's side engine bay/gearbox loom, and you will probably still have to do wiring mods. You will need a clutch pedal bracket and pedal, master, wiring for the clutch switch, etc. Buy a VQ37 and CD009 instead.

Welcome. I'm still of the opinion that if you're doing an engine swap on a lower end model Skyline, you should bypass the RB25DET altogether and go large. 3.6 or 3.8L V6 + 2 turbos, or a big 6+ litre V8. If you have to put effort into a swap, you might as well gain the most benefit from it.

Hasn't been changed. Always was eyelet type, because NA.

Hmm. Maybe I correct myself. Seems the service manual shows the speed sensor is grounded on one side. The manual also has ALL the information you need to fault find this. Wire it up like this. And use this sort of thing to help you diagnose.

The usual thing to do (RB25 box into R32, for example) is to take the front part of the tailshaft that suits the box and the front part of the tailshaft in the car to Hardy Spicer (along with a careful measurement of the required length) and get them cut and shut together.

No. No ground at all. It cannot connect to a ground, because ground implies zero volts. The signal we are talking about should be a +/- 1V AC signal, which cannot be tied to ground. It need 2 wires from the sensor to the dash.

Dripping from sump is not same as leaking from sump.

Needs an SC14 bolted on to fill the bottom end.

No. Don't mess with #30 and #31. They are outputs. They go to CUs that want to see a speed signal. That signal is generated in the dash. The input from the sensor has to go onto #19 (and because it is an AC signal, there really should be a 2nd wire for that connection - you shouldn't be able to use body earth).

There is no ground. Which part of +/- 1V are you having trouble with? The speed sensor generates an AC signal. Both wires are positive and both wires are negative, just not at the same time.

If it is your only car, an unreliable shitbox Skyline is not a great choice, no matter how much you love it. It will let you down and keep letting you down and you will keep spending money on it. It will also remain a turbocharged car, which the 370 will almost certainly never be, and therefore the 370 will never be as exciting, even if it is faster in most situations. I personally wouldn't own a 370, or anything factory VQ powered, because there is just so much electronic bullshit going on in those cars. If something on the Skyline fails, you can just hack a workaround into it. Much harder in the VQs.

The R33 speedo sender is in the same place (maybe a little forwards/backwards because of possible differences between NA and turbo boxes) as the gerabox you have. If you can't see a loom plug right there, then you don't have it. Torn off? Damaged by a moron? Do you have the reverse and neutral plugs?

No. I would presume not. I cannot see why there would be 2 different outputs based on what the input type was. I would presume that the 2P output is used by some clients in the car, and the 8P would be used by other clients (think of the various CUs in the car, ECU, TCU, ABS, HICAS that want to know a speed signal). The only input is pin 19 and the input needs to come to pin 19 from whichever speed sender is in the car. Look at the whole wiring diagram to see where the dash's pins 30 & 31 go. But the answer won't be there. That's just for interest. Just wire up the gearbox speed sender to the dash input 19 in the same was as it was from the diff. There is no power involved. The +/-1V signal is GENERATED by the inductive sensor.

No, I cannot advise model numbers and power ratings. Well, yes I can. I don't know, remember or care if I have Osram or Phillips or some other option in there. I just know that they are one of those or one of the few other good ones. And the ONLY sensible wattage rating is the original 55W. And yes. The relays are vital. They save your headlight switch from carrying the high current and you can get up to an extra volt or so to the back of the globes. Power is related to V squared.

Gearbox sender is 2 wires to cluster. It is a +/- 1V AC sawtooth type signal. Should not be greatly different to that from the diff, except for pulse count per speed. The ECU has nothing to do with it. The ECU and every other CU is a client of the speed signal generated in the cluster by the speedo head. That is a 0-5V PWM signal. All this is in the R34 manual.