GTSBoy

Plastic plumbing fittings are often available in the right sizes.

I cannot imagine that it is necessary to actually swap the speed sensor. As I said, the speed signal should be exactly the same on both early and late 32s. That being a 0-5v square wave PWM. It's all shown in the R32 GTR manual. It must just be a matter of which pins it's all wired to.

There is an electrical difference. Well, there's no actual electrical difference as far as I know - it's just wiring pinouts. The speed signal out to the ECU is the same PWM. etc.

The more I think about it, the more I think that the best "twin" setup is a v.large turbo + an Eaton screw supercharger.

Oiling mods more important than ANYTHING else.

Just get used to it. To be fair, there are so many questions asked on here that the asker could get the answer for in about 3s of googling. Exasperation builds up quick.

New wheels may well sound different. As to the leak tester.....just block both turbo inlets as you would on a single. You can't leak test from the MAFs inwards, because there's a lot of connections between the turbo inlet pipes and the crankcase.

Trolollollloolloolllol

BK's do the adjustment with two plates that are slotted and so can slide in-out relative to each other, and use bolts through them to lock them together. The bottom ones are the same as everybody else's. Just relies on big threaded rods and locknuts. The bottom ones need to be adjusted carefully so that the same length change is made on both the front and rear half of the arm. The top ones are more guaranteed of correctly adjusting both halves, seeing as they are not halves! But a few people harbour worries about the types of arms that have sliding plates that lock together with through bolts as they fear they will shake loose. May or may not be founded fears. The top ones are also spherical jointed on the upper inners and I don't think the new ones are.

Darren can always be wrong about numbers. Best to double check!

No more than 20% I'd guess.

I don't know for sure, but I'd expect you have to do much more disassembly than you'd like.

I was wondering why you were winding an RB30 bolt up to that torque and assumed that you were not using a stock bolt. Basically, exceeding the required (Nissan's spec) torque on that bolt by the margin that you have cannot be a very good idea. The torque is not just a function of the bolt but also what it is screwing into and the clamping surfaces that it has to load. It's no wonder that you f**ked the first one, and I'd be concerned that the second one is just simply too tight for the application. I'd get another one and do over again at a more moderate increase over the Nissan spec.

Job is a massive PITA and you would be well advised to pay someone to suffer it for you!

Then why are you asking on a forum instead of just going to a vendor?

I have both the GK-Tech and a group buy rerun of the latest UAS arms. Both good. UAS on the car ATM. Bought GK-Tech at intro price, which made them excellent value. Bought UAS at group price which made them pretty good value. Would bang both again at any price.

Most likely an ignition problem. Missing on one or more cylinders causes power output to go down.

Measured in months, no? And here's the thing. You can still buy the 34 box brand new, which is what I would recommend. And you can convert from pull to push. So I would suggest that all options are in fact quite open.

Non adjustable FUCAs are not worth buying. Paying that much for something that doesn't adjust seems stupid.

You can run the small box against a 25DET for quite a while, but it will not have a long life if you increase the power much or if you lean on it hard a lot of the time. They're just not heavy enough in the bearings to take the torque. They wear out even with just a boosted 20. Ask me how I know. I'd plan to swap it. At least keep an eye out for a box you can buy to start the process. You can't easily buy the 33 box new any more, but you can buy the 34 box new. For >$AU3k. I'm thinking of buying one, because rebuilding the big box is also getting to be near impossible, owing to lack of internal parts.

Plenty of houses built with "bricks" in western Sydney.

The full details for RB26 cams have been listed on the 'net about 60000000173746454 times over the last 30 years. It just takes 10 minutes of googling to get a consistent set, cutting out the clearly wrongheaded ones. But as Ben said, you can get all of what you need from the data in your first post. If you are doing "Automotive Engineering" to the level that you are going to run an engine in a simulator, I find it very hard to believe that you do now know the relationships between seat to seat duration, advertised duration, lobe centre angles and the timing of specific events. All of these are simply obtained with arithmetic from each other. You only need ~half of them to get the other half. The one caveat there is that the finest details are somewhat affected by the valve clearances. I would suggest that in the context of running it in an engine simulator, precise details are only going to have a small effect on the quality of the simulation anyway. People put far too much faith in the output of computer simulations.

The dipstick is so small that it can only offer a tiny improvement.

The R34 NA box is the same box as the RB20DET box (except for one or two different ratios and maybe a tiny bit of modernisation in synchros or something equally trivial). So it is quite possible that you don't have an RB20 box, but instead have an R34 box, and maybe the car not just got a manual conversion. Maybe it also got a turbo engine transplant. R33 box and R34 box are almost identical with the exception of the clutch actuation. They will both require a different front half of the tailshaft to the small box you have.

Tight enough that it won't come loose on its own. Not so tight that you f**k it.