GTSBoy

I would say that 1200s are only good for about 500rwkW (at close to 100% DC). That's with a standard (for Australia, braked roller dyno) discount of 25% from engine power. Dose's 1480 should be good for a bit less than 650 rwkW, which aligns very very nicely with his ~70% duty at 437rwkW. I get within about +/-5rwkW of 635 approaching the calc from either end.

GTR wheels? Nice.

More likely you've taken the teeth off the gear. Not the helical main gear teeth - the little pointed teeth that are what actually engages the gear. These work with the synchro rings, but they are not the synchro rings. The synchros are the brakes that allow those teeth to mesh. Anyway, it's very unlikley that you've worn the synchro, much more likely that the points are knocked off the teeth.

They're all essentially the same**. Although you have to differentiate between "block" and "bottom end", because Neos have different pistons and rods to vanilla 25s. I won't speak to whether there were oil pump drive changes to take into consideration, as that can be fixed anyway.

Not directly. I mean, there's nothing about what is happening at the wastegate itself that will generate smoke right there. But....if the car is overboosting and the ECU is dumping in fuel (because that's what they do from factory) then, yes, black smoke will result. It will also smoke if it is pinging its tits off too.

Yeah, whenever I say "HP", I mean HP. As in, at the engine. Allowing for a 25% discount from engine to typical Ozzie braked roller dyno figures, then subtracting the usual (more optimistic) US inertia dyno offset..... you get into the 600 actual engine HP territory from your 484 wheel number. 484 / 0.75 = 645 (that's Aussie rw intertia HP, converting to approximate engine HP. 645 --> 600 is discount for inertia dyno. Could actually be worse than that. But that would still be up around 600. So near enough for purposes.

Nice. 600ish HP is probably a nice place to be.

Hmmm. that's a tough one. There's a lot of history bundled up in that lot. Perhaps instead we can create a new pinned thread, called "Legacy Pinned Threads" and provide links to the these ones that will be unpinned in there. And maybe put the names of the pinned threads that are linked inside in the tags so they can seen from the outside? Or something like? I mean, it's half a step back towards having a more complicated forum structure, without actually having it. But there's a reason that heirarchical architectures exist. They are logical, and if executed properly, make it easy to find something without having any upfront knowledge of where it would be , and without using a search function.

:thumbsup:

Meh, I've always used 140-200TW tyres on the R32 as a daily. A set of tyres every 8-15km is acceptable to me. 8k perhaps at the less acceptable end!

https://automotive.sika.com/dam/dms/global-industry/n/interior-exterior.pdf

Sikaflex. There are many grades. I'm not sure which one is generally used for this purpose though.

Yes, and you will never get the shock to go onto the pin with the ARB loaded across the car like that. Too much force.

This an R34? It shouldn't matter though - it should be the same as on any of the others, and by "any of the others" I mean R32, because that is the car that I have had the front end apart on about 50 times this year. Sometimes, it is much easier to get the lower shock eye onto that pin when: a) you have the upper shock nuts backed off a few turns so you can wiggle it a bit more freely. When they are tight the bottom of the strut is much harder to move that _leeeetle_ bit you might need it to to win the fight. b) you have the outer bolt(s) from the FUCA out and so you can move the lower pin around freely too. Then, all you have to do is put the upper arm back on when you've got the rest back together, and this is where jacking under the balljoint can help.

I'm on the AD09, strictly on the street. They are a very nice tyre, have done ~16k km and are near the end, might make it to 20. They are, in my opinion, very much just a street tyre. I wouldn't expect them to be equivalent to some of the others in your list on the track. Although I'd be pleasantly willing to be surprised. My memory of the AD08Rs is vague enough, due to the passage of time, that I shouldn't try to compare them, but I feel as if the AD09 is not quite as "sporty" as the AD08R was.

There's a difference between "selling" a product to someone (which, if you walked into a workshop or bricks and mortar store and bought and walked out with it, is just the act of buying and selling) and rolling your buggy into a workshop and having them fit non-roadworthy stuff to the car. And for the latter, let's ignore any potential legal loophole arguments that the armchair lawyer might want to make to differentiate between supplying your own parts to be fit by the workshop or getting the shop to supply and fit. The workshops that have been dealt with in the US for this are in the latter category. It would be near impossible to try to charge/attack/criminalise a shop for selling "for off road use only" parts to someone unless those things were intrinsically illegal in their own right, or had other legislation wrapped around them, such as there is for guns, pharmaceuticals, etc. Well, no. And you knew your argument was silly when you made it. And there is. it might be somewhat harder in Vic, but then that's the price you pay for electing the long list of (unts that you have to run the whole shit hole**. But otherwise, you can put an aftermarket or otherwise tunable ECU into a car and get it run through the whole shebang of emissions testing as part of an engineering cert and, so long as the tune is "locked" afterwards, then that modification is on the list that is approved on the cert. But....it is an expensive process. ** Of course, the (unts who make up a large proportion of the population that eternally try to get around the rules are also a part of the problem and the reason that you end up with draconian rules in the first place. By contrast, SA was founded and the government and civil service set up and run by very sensible types (largely German) who set up good structures that enabled a lighter touch of government on the somewhat better behaved population. it is only more recently that we have followed the rest of Australia down the criminal drainhole of penal colony behaviour and now we have to catch up with mobile phone cameras and so on.

Yeah. Will f**k a tight nut. Will possibly f**k a non-tight nut, if accidentally put on too off-centre. Otherwise... I've always been tempted to buy one to see how good they are. Thing is....I have all the other sockets, spanners, etc. So, unless I was trying to build a 1 socket kit.... see little point.

I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.

is good

Almost certainly no. In Vic they have this crazily restrictive set of rules for mods that is usually interpreted as "no more than 2 modifications to the intake system". And they're not real hot on upgraded turbos at all, let alone high mounts. That means if you fit a bigger (particularly front mount) intercooler (which is, of course, almost impossible to go without) then you're already down to one other mod allowed. You'll really benefit from hearing from someone from Vic who knows the real state of play. Even better, speak to an automotive mods certifying engineer from Vic. You can actually read the rules from the govco websites yourself, too.

Well, I'm not clicking on a link to f**king bookface (never have, never will), so I can't really know what the complaint here is about, but.... There's nothing particularly wrong with forcing people to have a higher license category to drive super/hypercars. Note that the laws are not about modified cars - only listed standard cars, because there are not supposed to be cars modified enough to meet the law's category limits anyway. If you have a modified car that falls into those power limits you're already in trouble anyway. What is wrong is the bullshit on-line "test" to get the upgrade, instead of any actual work and training.

yes yes this yes

Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.

Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.

The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.