SargeRX8

It comes back. I tightened mine and its f**king loose again, I cbf with it now. NOISES ARE f**kING ANNOYING. Another annoying one? The electric window parts which loosen up over time and make noise in the f**king door. Strip the whole car down and put it back together with locktite on everything.

A cop could defect anyone and everyones skyline in this thread. I think your car looks pretty f**king tough but yeah. I have no idea what a red sticker is but driving a car that sits like that in Australia is going to ask for alot. I'm sure it won't be hard to rectify... Raise it up, remove camber and get wheels with better fitting offset. Most milo cans were designed and built in Japan by reputable companies. I care not what anyone has to say about my milo can.

Take it to a dyno, give the operator ~$80 to throw it on a dyno, check your boost, check your power, check your afr and potentially find the problem for you. More often than not a failing afm causes starting and stalling issues with the car.

Sounds like it's leaning.

Seals yes, you balance the wheels to shaft which you don't do because yours are fine.

And in a hot day, that itch plus the humidity rising from the fuel tank is enough to really f**king frustrate you when you cant get that cradle in the bracket.

In the boot, remove the back board, you will see 4 10mm screws holding down a plate. Remove that. Under there is a black lid thing with 3 hoses. You want to unplug the wires and get a rag ready for when you remove those lines as fuel is going to come out. Keep the hoses out of the way and take that lid off. To do that get a piece of wood and put it in the notches in the lid and tap it with a hammer to loosen it and get it out. Fuel pump is inside. Plenty of guides here to elaborate and show pictures of how to do it, wire it and fit it back in. Its not a fun job. Don't do it on a hot day and be ready for swearing. DO NOT EVER attempt to do it with more than a quarter fuel in the tank. Hell run it to near empty if you can.

Why not buy the seal kit and try DIY? Assuming your shaft, wheels and what not are fine, I have read of people DIY rebuilding their turbos due to leaky seals.

If you can remove the front radiator support and attach your gearbox to your engine, you might be able to drop it in as one piece and that would make your life a hell of alot easier if you are working off the ground.

Spotted a red R35 plates TECTUP or something heading easterly on victoria road. Prior to that spotted the black DEMIRK lambo. Also spotted a Hyundai i30 GTR.

Get new O rings dude. Or try swap injectors 1 2 3 with 4 5 6 and see if that wets cylinder 4 5 6. Make sure you swap ALL seals over too, so which ever injector seats you have in 1 2 3 put them in 4 5 6.

Looks like even and consistent enough comp results. Looks like your problem may well and truly be your turbo.

Ive been watching this just out of interest http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Garrett-GT3076-bb-turbo-skyline-turbo-drag-drift-/290666362763?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ad10b78b

Surely he couldn't be silly enough to run the r32 ecu... most sealing components used to seal fuel components will pretty much shit it once they are exposed to air. those rubbers are old and brittle. Blind_elk if that was case (no fuel in 4 5 6) surely the car wouldn't be ruining fine after he started it...

What has been changed in the car, what mods? did you wash only the outside of the car, excluding the engine bay?

Are you loosing oil or are you loosing coolant?

You say you changed injectors. Same rail or different rail with seated injectors? I'm going to say leaky injector seals whether it be rail to plenum or injectors to rail. They aren't really a reusable item.

Thats the guy. It took a while for him to convince me he was lebanese haha. That car was sexy in the flesh. I see all these guys running these huge bell mouths and no filters on their turbos. Aren't you worried about sucking in some dirt or small birds?

Do basically you will always lose pressure it's just about finding the leaks pre throttle body?

When you do a pressure test on the intake you don't open your throttle. Leave it shut, the throttle is sealed. If you open the throttle you will leak air as the are will flow through the head and out the exhaust. Almost all cylinders will be open it is impossible to shut them all at the same time. Are you testing with open throttle?

Put some oil in the cylinder and test again, if numbers rise noticeably, head is fine and rings are worn.

Let the other car charge your battery, I had this happen to me you can feel the heat through the insulation due to the poor thickness. A good way to make strong leads and cheaply is using welding cables, they can pump up to 300a and are much cheaper than car stereo cabling which can do about 200a at 4 gauge thickness

I do this with my car, rb25, it's hilarious, very light throttle it's like a sneeze which won't end. I believe it is normal. I can't do it anymore with my new turbo though

Put a turbo in your turbo so you can have a turbo in your turbo and spool while you spool.

Probably just take it to a shop to adjust it for you, if you know a good shop they might do it free(it honestly won't take more than a 10 minutes to do). If they charge you about $40 or $50, may as well, its cheaper than buying a timing light and you probably wont need it again.