SargeRX8

If you go hypergear, and you do it right, first go, you won't be disappointed. I just finished another intake pipe for my car. Done it my self. Full 3" the whole way. As others have said, if you go hypergear, don't expect it to be bolt on. You need to modify things to fit, move things around, make things up. If you are willing to give it a go, you can do some, most of it by your self. These days most money goes into labor and time. I payed $15 for my first intake pipe parts. $15 for this one. Others can spend up to $400 getting one made. I'm not losing money, but I will be wasting time if my pipe doesn't work. I spent $700 on a tune, payed a little extra to have the cruical bits of my car looked over(like fueling setup for instance). Day after my fuel pump failed and threw out the tune and they wanted more money to fix it. They should have known because when I did pick up the car, they had to make some huge adjustments on my adjustable FPR just to get it stable and they even had some starting issues. Save your money, then draw up a list of potential parts. I found my self buying turbo's and selling them off as was always changing my mind. I had 3 different garrett turbos with me but I knew if I went garrett it would have been longer that my car was off the road. Fitting the hypergear turbo got me(a DIY, all bolt on stuff already done). It was done in the morning and finished before I left for work at 3. You could always just get a high flow. My old car would romp this one in terms of coming on to boost, but when on full song this one just goes and up top doesn't run out of juice. Not true. Technically, for my turbo, I may see a spike to 21 - 22psi which should push it above 320rwkw then boost will taper down to 20psi. Same turbo, running 10 - 11psi, I made 245rwkw. The turbo is still in its efficiency range so its not getting too hot at those levels.

I prime sometimes 3 to 5 times, it still happens. jez I'll remove my temp sensor tomorrow morning and see what happens.

Fuel economy is all in the tune, power is in the hardware and the tune.

My car still does this. Sometimes it dies out the first start then second time its perfect but on occasions it will fire up first time after a long cold, and after about 3 seconds of 300 rpm. The response from that other chap on page one got me really puzzled, all brand new parts etc and its still there. I'm used to it because its done it for long enough but it is still something that shouldn't be happening so I'd like it gone.

Ive got a carbotic button clutch, its very manageable in traffic. It has a small friction point but really this isn't something you can't get used to...

I don't understand one thing. When looking at some setups and some catch cans, both the inlet hose and outlet hose to and from the catch can are at the top. Wouldn't it be a better idea to fit the inlet hose(from the engine) to the bottom of the can, under all your meshing and baffling and then the return line to your intake up the top? That way you help to ensure no droplets are sucked back into the intake. I am going to be sealing off and refitting my catch can, noticed a tiny bit of oil in the front of the turbo...

^ Indeed I am lol. How the f**k are you managing such a lean idle? My car lean pops anywhere close to 14... I do have a wideband uego. Ill take the car for a run next time I have access to a laptop and do some logging with afrs on a table. Should be interesting to see how well this wideband responds.

The KU31's were on my old skyline which got sold off with the rims when my car got written off. New car came with no name tires so I wanted to get the same ku31's and needed them urgently but no one had the stock at the time so ended up going with these as I was told "they are just as good as" the ku31's... Utter rubbish. Its like driving on tires made of ice, they wear from nothing. Ive got some old Continental tires up front, like f**ken 2003 production date and they outlasted these 2010 forceum tires. I got the forceum from HPR at fairfield. These Ventus V12 tires look good. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hankook&tireModel=Ventus+V12+evo+K110&frontTire=345YR7K110XL&rearTire=54YR7K110XL&vehicleSearch=true&fromCompare1=yes&autoMake=Nissan&autoYear=1996&autoModel=300ZX%20Turbo&autoModClar= Damn thats a nice price. Ill see how much they cost local(also in Sydney) and buy from overseas if necessary. My brother gets all his tires from overseas for his rotor.

Unless you man handled your AFM, it should be fine. They are fragile, yes, but cmon people run 20psi through these things with big turbos... That is alot of suction. Some people put them in the cooler pipe, that is alot of pressure on the components. Surely dropping it, disconnecting it or what not won't kill it. None the less it is a component which you need to confirm it either works or doesn't. I thought most, if not all, skylines have the limp home mode if the AFM is f**ked.

Stay the f**k away from Forceum tyres. They grip ok in the dry, never tried anything to test them in the wet. They have been in my street car, have lasted no more than 10000km. I have not done any track work, not a single burn out, just some throttle. Nothing to severely break traction and wear tires. Theres hardly anything left on them. Less than a year. Utter rubbish. I had Kuhmo Ku31's which I actually gave a hard time to and out lasted these tires by a long shot. Now I need 4 new tires, in the same year.

Genuine Bosch Z32. It was fine until I fiddled with my intake pipe(don't anyone give me shit for this) but I don't see how it could have had that much effect on it. My car has always been rich on idle just sometimes feels richer than others. I haven't kept an eye on temps or any other corrections though...

Tao are those two graphs up there your exact AFR's, what your wide band reads(I read that is how trent does his tuning, writes his table to target afrs then adjust af curve to meet this)? My car is being really weird, sometimes it will idle at 14 othertimes I see it idling at 11.1. Can you get me a similar screen dump of a SS2 target afr, what afr you actually want to see come out the exhaust pipe.You run 9's in the top end, isn't that really really low of an afr? Surely it could be a little leaner...

I made the same... move. Cost more than I anticipated, or should I say it cost more than it should and unfortunately I don't think its going to end just yet.

Ive got a genuine Hybrid front mount. 4" intake is not feasible. I just made up a 3", there isn't even enough room for that, I have no idea how I would fit a 4" in there... Custom hot pipe? f**k off no more pipe work for me lol. I have measured everything up for relocating my AFM. My wiring is already setup for it, Ive already got my silicone adapters. The only thing holding me is its one of those things like changing a clutch in your back yard, you get to a point where you cant go back and thats when you think what the hell did I get my self into. Its not a big job but I have the potential to f**k things up. A garrett will not give more power, nor better response. Tao has shown me results on the same dyno with another rb25 with similar mods to his running a 3076. His turbo made more power everywhere. The turbo can make the power, its just like everyone said. Its not one part to make the power, its an.... abundance of parts working together to achieve one goal.... power. you need a + b + c + d + e + f + g + h + i + j + k + l + m + o to = POWER. I might be missing i at the moment. Can always add n to the equation.... NOS. I see alot of you guys aren't actually happy with performance. Its not that I am not happy, its just that I am pissed off that, potentially, my intake pipe could be limiting the power I make. Ive never needed to use high boost, that is how fun 14psi is with this thing. I still go side ways on 14psi and its more than enough to cause shit stains from passengers who haven't been in a tuned street car.

The metal gasket is better. Its designed to be stronger but from what you have said its pointless. It can be done but it is VERY unnecessary. That is what everyone is getting at. The tomei IS a better gasket but not needed for your application. Are you going to put a Nismo timing belt on? It cost $250. Its better than the standard Nissan one but for the most of users its very pointless as the standard Nissan belt will hold quite well. Things can be done, when they are needed, not just because they can be done.

A dud setup.... The words no one wants to hear but unfortunately it looks like these turbos we are using are very very fussy with what they need. Where would one point then? At the turbo? The exhaust? The whole damn package? I spent close to 6k for most of the gear on my car and it still isn't making the power it should... Ive done almost everything needed to get an exact replica of the setup this turbo was made on. I'm actually making a raw 90 degree full 3" pipe right now to fit so the intake will no longer be as big of a restriction as it was. I will obviously post back again when I get it on the rollers again just to see if I can get the power I should. My motor was tested to be healthy with nice strong consistent compression. The issue is everything attached to it lol. Its almost tempting to return to stock, sell my parts off and go for the GTR. This is my last chance before this otherwise ill either sell it for parts or give it to my brother and get me the gtr.

Stock Nissan is best. If you get a metal head gasket and try to slap it on your head and the head is not resurfaced and true flat, it won't seal. Get the stock Nissan.

And without starting a new topic, are these plug and play into the rb25det series 2? They sound more functional than a power fc... Whats the price on one of these? Auto tune mmmm. There is an auto tuner for power fc but I ain't have the gonads to try it out. All it needs to work is the wide band and some limits entered by the user. I think it should be an option, its nothing fancy really. Have the ecu know what car its on and let it load up some target afr's and start adjusting til they are met from the wideband feedback. After fueling, give timing until a threshold of knock is heard. Then the user can go over it to adjust anything if necessary.

Have two tunes, one for your every day then one for your water meth injection days. That intake pipe looks very simple, a 90 with a 90 with tiny legs. is that the standard hot pipe? My shit intake hits my hot pipe which is another thing f**king with my intake. Need to extend it or get a longer 90 degree silicone from turbo to hot pipe.

$700 is steep... I had the exact same turbo with the same problem but not as bad. To get it fixed was a pain in the arse and wallet. I recon if you are a little flexible on the price, this will go quick.

Evo's are poop. They run such massive boost to create power our cars will make with half that boost. Remember my old tune? 11psi for 244rwkw. Can an evo do that? Don't let this turn into another hijack like last time lol. My brothers car runs 35psi, its a rotor, its built for it.

My injectors are a nice red colour compared to that picture. They also didn't come in those little clear bags. But packaging is just packaging. This seller has 2k+ feedback. If they sell you a non legit item you can claim your money back via paypal and have them sent back. Yeah its a risk but you really don't have anything to lose. When you get then, inspect them and check for the stampings and shit and compare with a genuine nismo counterpart.

Your diagnosis sounds right. Injectors are always shut and only open when given a pulse. Try tap the injector cap. Then again when you think about it, it want seized when you turned turned it off last. If its a stock injector just replace it.

I bought brand new nismo 740 injectors for 620 locally. The guy I bought them bought them from some shop in queensland, their site didn't cost much more than what I payed. No idea what the shops name was though...

Just grabbed me a set! Great stuff man, awesome price. Tomorrow morning hopefully ill be putting these in! Anyone considering coils, the OEM's are the rolls royce of coils for the R33.