R31Nismoid

Ye was @ Calder with Snowy & a few others for a test day... Was quite an experience in the car with Scotsman belting around the 'Dome in his GTR. Just spewing mine wasn't fixed yet to have a crack yesterday lol. I'll certainly be entering the Vic round. No doubt about it, awesome experience. The info is on the website! Where ya lookin? Just hover over the "info" button, and it brings up all the options

My AD08s were quite impressive @ DECA, still not quite as good as my A032R in some areas, but i've not had an alignment since changing wheel size etc. Once i finish up my 10-sec pass business i'll put brakes on and start doing some laps on them and see how they go.

Victoria costs around $650-800 you must talk to the VASS signatory/engineer first. You might findbrake upgrades and other things are required. Use Enkelman in Braeside, I've used them as have many others i know. On the ball and reasonably priced compared to other VASS engineers (there is no set price).

What state? Better it gets moved there, laws vary massively. As do costs.

You fry it due to OC, don't even bother with warranty attempt

It's called SAU Nationals Sounds like a good event.

Make sure you get some bracing welded onto the manifold as well, it'll crack either way most likely but anything you can do to help stop it is beneficial

See this is how i know they are full of sheet - he had to lift off the throttle! lol @ 2 gears to go around one car too, it was like sloooow motion. The GOR is a boring road these days anyway. The limit is 80km/h and no word of a lie, all i do anytime i go down there is turn the wheel. Don't need accelerator or brakes, just turn the wheel left & right. 80km/s be toooo slow and it doesn't get to 100 until after Marengo/Apollo Bay Plus the cops love to hide out in any nook and cranny so its just silly to go there for a spirited drive. HOWEVER... If you want fun on the GOR, take an old shitbox down there like i did - Ford KC Laser, manual - FTW! Now THAT was some entertaining fun.

Ok ye not a box busting setup. Still... 2nd hand geaxbox i think is still the way to go. New Nissan is horribly expensive As for the clutch, never heard of that actually. But if you do want what is IMO the best clutch you can get - Nismo Coppermix Twin, drives like a factory clutch but has held fine with me 7000-7500rpm launches @ 350-380rwkw consistently without fail for 6 months now, it LOVES it. And the pedal is very light compared to others i've used/had (ORC twin, O/S Racing Twin etc). Only thing that comes close would be a Jim Berry special single plate.

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Ok so shoulders are both still outta action. Back to physio on Friday and slow going on recovery Could be at least 2 weeks yet. Basically can't do anything that involved using my arm going above 1/3rd or it just flares up again. Cant even work arms as Bi's are partly to blame. Doing light bent arm rows at the moment as part of recovery. Just to pull shoulder blade back, stupid IT job. Big week of legs coming up i think to keep everything going considering i can't really do any upper body at all. Protein and creatine arrived during last week too - cheap as it gets. 10kg for $270, and thats 89% protein too, hardly any filler and mixes/tastes execellent. Have starting to loading up on Creatine at the moment last 4 days. www.bulknutrients.com.au Aussie mob too

Clutch and other parts still here.

Hi. All the information regarding business advertising can be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/294953-are-you-a-business-want-to-advertise-on-sau-click-here/ If you have any more questions then PM me. Cheers Ash.

Yep 12 months from the month you join as per the first post

If its not a dedicated track car then honestly you are wasting your money mate as the R33 tank is fine. Why spend $500+ on surge tank, new pump, lines/fittings and wiring for nothing? All the 350-400rwkw CIRCUIT GTR's down here, on semi comps - use a single in-tank pump and just don't get low on a tank (my car included). It's as simple as not going under 1/4 of a tank, and correctly mouting the fuel pump. The only way you'll get a gulp of air is if you end up with the car on it's side. And that would be the least of your worries.

If you can buy -9s over the counter all around the world... Im pretty sure you'll be able to buy the cartridge without the housings, as that's all it is. Either way using SR20 GT-SS in RB26 housings is a silly idea. Just use Garrett -5s if you want more power. You'll never have the same response with more power as Disco said, its simply impossible.

Ye but what is "in the nature"... It's already gone a bit ridiculous in some instances and isn't gonna get any better.

40rwhp more = 30rwkw more You don't get that kinda gain dollar for dollar as easily hehe, very excited. You'd feel that driving around for sure, plus the pickup you'd think would be quicker too.

A 3" CAT on 270-300rwkw setup is a restriction. Even with 270rwkw and -9s, when i take the CAT out of my GTS-R i can feel a difference and it's either a 4 or 4.5" CATCO item. Not so much in outright power noticeable, but just throttle etc. Stuff you dont see on a dyno

What's the use of the car? Unless you external mount or spring for expensive lines that don't weep, you'll have to live with constant smell of fuel

You can buy a GT-SS cartridge, its called a garrett -9 they are the same thing. If they are making you buy HKS items they are ripping you a solid $1000 Aud as garrett & HKS for a -9/GT-SS are identical in every way. Actuator is different, but that's not really important. As for the rest of the story, its impossible for anyone to tell. You'd have to look the turbo ID Tags to see what they are. Have a look and report back.

Ok you got me

http://www.atomicmpc.com.au/Feature/135165,atomic-guide-to-cpu-lapping.aspx/1 Mine took me about 2 hours whilst i was watching TV. If i actually paid attention im sure i could cut that time in half A CPU heatsink is never perfectly flat as you'll see in the guide. You also use less thermal paste as a result after 'lapping' But ye, i picked up a good 7 degree drop. Pretty impressive for a couple hours work. One of the best value modifications really if you intend to overclock as all it takes it about $10 and 2hrs. Some CPU's might get more, some might get less. All depends on how covex your CPU lid is from the manufacturer. My E8400 was TERRIBLE.

Ye that is what I'm saying mr Bris