R31Nismoid

Ye the way it comes on so hard is still making me look @ the graph over and over. Wondering if during the swap there was perhaps a slightly split line or something causing a minor issue not neccesarily noticeable. Simon - were the hoses etc all replaced or was it a literal 'bolt off/on'? What about the actuator sitation - same or new? (not having a go, just thinking outside the norm here) And side question entirely, are the GTX housings different to the GT ones? (ive not really paid attention to that?) Either way - more more tuning around the 4000rpm mark. Sure looks like it could bring up a massive mid-range increase which would make it MUCH more than 10% gain. Almost 20% if it keeps picking up like it was, would be very impressive

Brakes? Why weren't you using antilag @ Motive like in the other vids? I saw another vid of the car the other day on youtube where it was definately running A/L, or was it Nitrous?

Well was just a thoughy, Jack has one of the best trader ratings on SAU for a reason Also just thinking, as you mentioned PPG... Dollar for effectiveness you'd be better of spending a little more and putting a O/S gearset in, compared with dealing with a stock Nissan item. A stock box for 3.5k - that is still has all the weaknesses... Or a O/S set for IIRC ~5.5k. Seems plenty of people have been having issues with other brands of gearsets... A simple browse in this section will give you an idea of such brands... So going with the tried and proven O/S might be another option to consider for you as you've clearly thought about strength for some reason. What power/setup is in the car now?

Why don't you put an injected V8, surely that would be 10x cheaper? A RB20 here costs $500 AUD from a wrecker lol... $1500 on an 25yo 2ltr motor is madness

15mins? Alarm?

2600k have been doing 4.5ghz on air. If you had a hotter room etc, just lap the CPU head and you'll get a few degrees out of it. I managed to drop 7 degrees lapping my E8400 - which has run @ 4.1-4.2ghz 24x7 on air for 3-4 years or so

just bend the actuator arm you girls

Just to throw a bit of a spanner at you… By porting/enlarging, more area to fill. How can you fill something that is larger, faster? When you pre-load a car then most certainly, you can. However on/off throttle filling larger spaces takes more time. Also remember you are dealing with forced induction, not N/A.

Fken hell Gav... That is insane! huge gain in the mid

^ That plagiarist website really gives me the shits! Nothing on there they guy has done himself. It's just ripping someone else's hard work for his own benefits. Still a good read though, saw it a few years back. Should probably read again haha.

If it didnt nose over hard, it would be looking to pickup a solid ~40kw @ 4500rpm. Now that would be very interesting indeed. Good to see a 18psi comparo too where most comparo's have been on 20-24psi for the most part. Perhaps with more boost the differential between the two would be more noticeable.

It's interesting to see it ramp hard @ 3500rpm. And then @ 4000rpm the GTX suddenly stops making power almost as if it's hitting surge. Was that just a case of the tune? (ie back to back test, no tune adjust?) Also interesting that its more responsive when other results all seem to show the opposite thus far.

Gonna close this guys - Sorry. There are some greater issues going on with SA in relation to this. Don't need anymore discussion on this at the moment as there has been a big shitstorm over it for 4 weeks now. Even lead to the club cancelling some events i believe

+1

No problems! Was gonna PM bout them tonight when i got home

If you are coming for the 2 days etc, then just Accommodation mate. We are working on an Evening event, but you will be able to book that via the website when it goes up. Shouldn't be too expensive. To watch Trackday - Free To checkout the S'n'S - Free or $1-$2 coin. So basically nothing. The S'n'S will just depend on sponsorship dollars and how much we do/don't get. Speaking of sponsorship - Proposals will be sent over the weekend to everyone that has asked. If you are interested in sponsoring and getting your business logo involved, trade stands, guaranteed entry to track day etc - them PM me

Had good merit until you said large percentage using a Link, kinda doubt that. Gonna be hard to find many with the same ECU/Turbo combo imo... except maybe a 3076 Once you get a way to load it into a DB, would be easy. Just depends if output format is always the same

Because the RB20 needs all the response it can get, you'll lose that with larger cams. Also porting is a waste of money on a 20 head. They flow around 30% less than a RB25 head anyway. Please read the 260rwkw RB20 thread (linked via the FI Guide). You'll see people have tried various setups and the setup that is the best for 260rwkw overall? TD06 Greddy KIT, stock RB20, decent tune People dont bust their 20 gearboxes, they don't destroy motors either People tried cams, plenums, different manifolds, cam gear settings etc. Overall these items - some of them big $$$ items – made no difference and in some cases the setup actually LOST power and/or response. Being a pioneer is all well and good, but if you are on a budget, why bother? People post up all this information to help everyone else for free, I say use it

Yep 100% years old. I when i pulled my turbo/manifold gasket off my RB25/GT30 setup years ago, it still looked near new after 4k-5kms That one looks utterly shagged, how can you get rust easily into an area that is sealed?

+1 - read the 260rwkw RB20 thread, all infos is there A GTX3071 would be much laggier than a TD06 from all reports, but then it makes more power so that stands to reason

I thought removing the exhaust bumps wasn't a good idea... Something to do with water galleries if memory serves me correct? Could've been something else but i remember it being mentioned, just wish i could remember who it was that this discussion was with so i could find out more

2530s (400-440rwkw) are bigger than a gt35 (370-400) so that stands to logic...

JAGR33 is selling a 500km old reco S3 gearbox, whilst not "brand new", its as close as you'll get.

Ye but to be fair - he's been told its got nothing to do with the actuator. Whilst it really only IS going to be the actuator, 2nd opinion also backed that up what a lot of us suspected anyway. We've all seen enough results to have a "reasonable" idea of where things should sit. There are also further reccommendations in other area's as well. I mean go back and see, but i cannot see them being too forthcoming on it all and more time spent might not achieve anything.

Ye nowhere near 500 lol