R31Nismoid

Oh lol - they are abbreviated from the other thread but then come on, what kinda gamer you think you are if you don't know those?

Most fuel has a listed shelf life of approx 3 months. I remember reading it on the Shell website, it was in another thread a while ago. Just 1/2 fill the tank as much as you need, then fill up each time you plan to do 150km's or something would be a better idea. Also, don't rely on octane booster, you'll end up fouling plugs with regular use. What you also need to be aware of is engine oil life. I mean if you are only doing 5,000km's a year, and changing oil on that basis. IMO thats far too long for oil changes.

No you didnt http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=feedback&u=1327 When you view your profile, the 5th tab along "feedback", click on it mate - it''ll show up

T25 is the frame/cartridge. However T25's, given they are bush bearing, could come with any wheel combo as far as I am aware. These days ball bearing CHRA's come set with the wheels etc. Either way the turbos are journal/bush bearing, so basically similar to a stock R32 GTR turbo, but a smaller frame. So who knows if they will/wont. Without full specs, it's anyone's guess. Don't expect them to perform well however, i'd be doubtful of them giving remotely similar results of the GT28 series in both power output and response.

Please post when ya vote too - that was i know who from orig thread is in, and who are new comers - don't be shy now

oh ic

Agreed, I've also heard good things. I don't have a sponsor mate The only sponsor is my bank account and the excessive hours i work

Done a rough tally: CS:S 10 BC2 6 TF2 6 L4D 5 SC2 5 WC3 3 DOW2 3 L4D2 2 MW2 2 VOTING THREAD: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/349611-sau-gaming-night/

Choice of the top 5 from the previous thread: CS:S 10 BC2 6 TF2 6 L4D 5 SC2 5 Please vote - you can only do it once - So pick the one you'd prefer most. I'll organise it for this THURS NIGHT if we can get enough votes, otherwise Thurs after

Yer fken oath. By the time you buy the parts, use em once - you'd hurt big time. You'd have to do 5 SAU members cars probably to make it a viable purchase given you don't shit manifold studs that often

I would tend to agree - RE: mismatch. I mean its quite evident with the surge going on that they are quite oversized. Realistically are not suited to anything other than a 3ltr if you intend to street/circuit and expect decent response. They do obviously suit their purpose, ok if you are drag racing/top speed runs and after just high end of the graph. Also remember that your gearset perhaps is accentuating the issue somewhat. Not heaps, but it all has effects in the overall with something like that. I'm going to get my car and compare with a -5 & -9 racepace cars so near idential - hopefully in the near future (admittedly I don't have stock -9 turbo's lol) It'll be interesting to see what happens from 2nd/3rd gear 80km rolling runs etc. Not totally relevant to this i know. Paul - you and Steve should do the same before he pulls it apart. Just to see what its like for before/after. Also dyno as well, two differences of the scale

Touch a housing 10mins after you've turned the car off - see how much it's cooled down There is still a rather large amount of residual heat. Cooling down from "high load" type temps doesn't take long to get to 300, down from 600-700 degree or whatever. But going from 300 to 200 takes quite a while longer

I never stop enjoying looking @ that difference

Ive fixed it all up, user warned.

Friend of mine is doing -5s on a 30DET, heaven knows when it'll be together though lol. Similar time frame to Steveo "sometime in the future"

Firstly, forget buying N1 motors. They are utterly pointless and a waste of money as they still carry all the weaknesses of the RB26. You can have a motor built for less than a N1 costs, and it will be unquestionably more reliable. The list of parts for that power output (320rwkw), is nothing more than expensive. You do not need: Rods Stroker kits Nismo Plenum HKS piping kit Upgraded intercooler Manifolds Everything else you have parts wise is good. The above will save you at least 5k which realistically, you'll never notice on the street and won't affect reliability at all. My own GTR makes 350rwkw with pretty much everything factory... Plenum/dumps/cams/crank/cooler/piping/rods/manifolds etc. Just a rebuild motor with forged pistons, new crank, head tidy up and some strengthening of the block and there isn't much more too it than that. As you are in WA, go down to XSPEED or similar and have a chat with them down there. No point going to the East Coast when you have a perfectly capable workshops over there that won't make you eat your money freighting stuff all over the place. How the mining industry affects car mechanical labour, i don't understand. Good work costs good money.

So basically you got some favours the common man wouldn't... Cool story Uncle Dunc

No excessive bumping. Read the forum rules.

I think you'll find it'll be over a lot earlier than 7000rpm. I'd take a stab @ nose over around 6500rpm, its what, 20% more capacity. But then it will be on in almost factory turbo fashion

Saw ZILLA-33 in Caulfield not long ago

The time is 1hr behind. It's been noted before as a problem. Otherwise the new content is working fine.

LOL Easy ole man I'm always watchin

Oh the Thread Doctor is indeed alive and well. Does a good business

So... (RWD) 1350x3 = 4ltr turbocharged/blown motor/6.5ltr N/A motor (GTR) 1600x3 = 4.8ltr turbocharged/blown motor/8ltr N/A motor (weights i know, are rough. Just proving a point) Same as your last thread a while ago... A lot of hoohah, about nothing. Common sense ruling. This is a skyline forum, not a blown big bore forum. Plus the idea of putting a blown 5ltr-6ltr V8 into a 1200kg car will never be approved by a Victorian Engineer anyway. So it's just ratifying common sense really as anyone doing such a thing isn't exactly building a road car. You'd still get a small 4.2ltr V8 passes potentially that is both lighter and newer than say, a LS1

yes