R31Nismoid

AD08s did me around 7,000kms and there was a LOT of 4WD donuts, circuit/hillclimb and associated - and they started off @ about 80% tread... So a full set would certainly go the distance. I rate the AD08 over a RS-R in terms of performance having driven my car on both for a while.

Simon is the marketing exec down there, although what they are talking about isn't in place yet (with Just Cars). It's part of something larger SAU is working on for everyone across the country and will be announced once it's been sorted out Shannons as referenced before, will give you a discount if you are a member of a CAMS affiliated club and have a CAMS license (that's what i understand).

Thread cleaned. Warnings given to everyone. Don't cry wolf with the report button if you start something, sure fire way to get yourself a warning too.

It isn't true - until you get caught. The the reality sets in when you're forced to sell it.

He should stick to organising events me thinks!

Excellente! I'll PM people later tonight with further information and what not (in the PM we already have going)

Ye as in, are they mechanically in order. (ie no leaks, rusted holes in mufflers etc). So the RWC person was well within his rights to say it was a pass IMO. Not that they are the correct noise level, as again, that is EPA. What you can do - is pay to get it fixed, or bolt on a stock system and pass then swap back. Same two options we've all had for many years and is covered in the EPA thread.

Monthly meetings have been open to the public for 7 years, that will never change. I'm sure the entire Vic Forum gets that you don't think it's 'good value', even though it's one of the cheapest CAMS clubs in Victoria... So I'd suggest you go find another club to join and stop being a pain in the ass to this one. Post another pointless comment/dig about the club - i'll start removing the posts.

Sorry but you can't try and pin the tale on another donkey. RWC covers mechanical, not emissions as stated You knew full well it was over regardless of the RWC - time to get it fixed.

Yeah you might get lucky like that - but more often than not people strip and sell stock. Generally end up with more money that way. I was almost at the point of doing that with my 33 to be honest, would've certainly got more in parts no question.

Oh thanks for the vital pieces of information on our mutual friend - its turned out to be highly amusing

It's a defect on wheels, you'll have to hold out until someone will pony up the money. Should just part it out and sell it stock.

Pics of all the dash parts and so on. Will take $850 for the lot. It's packed and ready to post as well, so turnaround here would be same day.

Pics of the Door Trims. Will take $400 for them.

Once we have 10 sets - will get those sorted out. So ONE MORE, and you guys will have presents sometime late Jan most likely - tell your friends!

Every car is different Just going from a PFC to a PFC-Pro with identical tune, my knock went up by 15 - wasn't a problem with the tune, just the way the ECU was interpreting the signal, so it would hummmm along at 35 and it was totally fine (where previous it'd never go above 20). His knock sensor could be picking up a little more noise than yours did. Either way 65 knock isn't great, but it's still not bad. Anything over 35-70 usually just means there is 1-2 cells that need attention. Misfiring will also cause the knock sensor to go nuts as well, same as hitting limiters etc. Odi - wideband won't show you much either as by the time it's leaned off to a point that you'll notice, you've already done the damage (no-one stares @ a gauge when fully up it). Much the same as oil pressure dropping when @ 7000rpm, buy the time you notice/light comes on, the motor is f**ked anyway unless you are setting the ECU up to shut the car down in such a situation via a trigger/value/aux input, which a PFC doesn't have. I'd suggest having the fuel pressure checked, possible the walbro is faltering now and again, I had one give issues like that 6-7 years ago. However with the misfire could just be a case of a loom/grounding issue. Even voltage supply, so not the coilpacks themselves either. Could also be the CAS playing up intermittently, they have a habit of doing that when they are letting go (you can get another 6-12 months out of them sometimes before they die and the car just wont turn on). Nissan electricals are a headache

Good thing we are talking street level applications as per the first post then!

So you have a ebay copy turbo and a ebay copy gate/manifold? ebay special chip sounds like it'll fit in nicely! However if it were me, it's $100 wasted. Better off putting it into the pokies. A proper tune/ECU will cost $2000+ - fact of life.

It's also the inconsistent nature of 95. The tune has to be extra conservative as 91/95 isn't really the best at all. From what I've read the quality varies more than it does with a 98 which is essentially the flagship petrol etc given cars that are standard ULP tuned aren't really too fussed about how good/bad the fuel is. So in a boosted application you'll need to be careful as even factory turbo cars have PULP listed as the only option for good reason. Also have you thought about what would happen if you get caught using the company card? Or do they know full well you'll be burning it up using on your own private use? Can't imagine a company would be happy with that. I say go the 98 tune, use company car 80% of the time - don't need to drive a Skyline everywhere, you'll enjoy it more that way as well

I doubt i'll have internet connected (moving house atm)... So will be anything i can do offline i think, which is fk all these days lol. Damn online accounts and shit

Won't be till early next year. Track dates depend on WRX, which is never ready before the start of the year as the tracks only put up dates in late Nov usually availability. So then everyone jostles around - so check Mid Jan. Richo/Bec might have more of an up to date idea but that's usually how it's gone in previous years

Of course there is validity - I wouldn't be saying it if it wasn't there. Because a pump fails - does not mean it's the actual pumps fault. Think a bit bigger than what you see before you. It's like saying it's a tyres fault for blowing out, but the actual cause was a nail that deflated it, leading to a blow out. Given you have no idea of the motor build and it's treatment before you got it, sounds like you didn't have it properly inspected afterwards... And as a result cant confirm with any reasonable certainty there is nothing else at play here - you cannot for a second say it's exclusively the pumps fault. The entire design is flawed, hence the Tomei is the "best" solution on a budget... EVen then you can even kill a Tomei pump if you try hard enough or the build overall is poor (users have here before).

(so you were told), that sums that up - you don't even know! I didn't get lucky, 60,000kms over the 3 motors says so. And then what about the rest of the motor? Did you have it checked or just blame the pump? Was properly balanced? Crank snout and engagement 100%? Sounds like you don't know that either - so how you can say it "just broke" is... interesting.

N1 pumps don't just 'break', more than enough info on the pages of this forum to work that out. I've run them for 7 years on 3 motors, never broken one and i bash the limiters in them without fear.