R31Nismoid

Yep, half a dozen users on E85 over 350rwkw with a single in tank

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

360rwkw? A single Nismo will support that day in, day out.

You spend more than that on a tank of fuel... As John said - things like admin costs, liability insurance (for all the events), free BBQs, subsidies on Merch and entry costs to events. Add to that with the member discounts, that on just a single translation, could save you more than $70... SAU-Vic is one of the cheapest CAMS Affiliated club in the state (affiliation costs money, fact of life). Most are $100+

Poor mounting.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Read the e-flex thread or whatever it is, there is a much more affordable option than the Powertune one. There are pics as well!

Yep heatsoak definately will have an effect on power, no question at all there. Just make a air guide up, and block the edges off from the front bar to force the air through. It will also help cutting, but once you cut - you can't go back

PFC can do this The things a PFC can not do. So it's just a case of you answering your own question: A ECU will only ever be as good as the guy setting it all up for you. That's basically the answer. So most peoples "experiences" will just be "yep my car drives sweet, runs great", and probably because they had to go a Vipec for Flex setups and extra logging (EGT for eg). It's the tuner that is responsible for that. Also note there are plenty of people out there however they will say their car "runs great, drives awesome", but then you might see it and it's utterly rubbish (10 sec to fire, doughy off throttle etc) - all because they don't know any better. This isn't a mark of a bad ECU, just a rubbish tuner. Same also will go for those coming from a PFC, it was bad, wouldn't idle etc - it's nothing to do with the ECU in almost every instance.

everyone should be ok now.

Just the first 4 numbers tell you its totally different RB25 vs RB20 = two totally different engines, that means both head AND bottom end. RB20 on a RB30 is a total waste of time, better off sticking with the single cam.

If the motor is built right with restrictors and enlarged returns - you do not need an external drain.

Oooo interesting indeed! Hope whoever buys it is a true enthusiast and has the proper money behind them to maintain/run etc so it doesn't end up in disrepair down the track like some other historics have!

To me it sounds like you are using the wrong engine builder, or someone that knows nothing about the issues RB's have in that department. Restrictions are mandatory with a larger pump, oil filter will not blow off either. Bit surprised a company, making a product well above spec, won't give you advise though given they would've tested the product and know the issues their product would create (on a stock motor).

Closed/edited. It's illegal to do what you are doing.

Ok so I did some more digging over the pricing into that GB thread. According to Paypal, their group buy price at 899 pounds for the front 8 piston 356mm kit is $1440 before you add freight, import taxes, customs agent fees and ADR approved braided lines. Freight on these brakes is at least a few hundred dollars for a set as they're very heavy. ADR approved braided lines are a minimum of $150 a pair to have made up (which I've already said). $1440 brakes $200 freight 5% import duty 10% import GST Brokerage ($80 minimum) Braided lines @ $150 Unless they have every combination in stock (they don't, they've specified they only have black) they would have to order them in from D2, get them to the UK and then ship them to Australia. You'd be looking at a minimum of 3 months before anyone saw their product. And then wouldn't have the ADR approved lines. And would be more expensive than the group buy. And then, as if the above isn’t enough – with this group buy, you get to - Purchase from a long term SAU sponsor and community supporter Purchase from an authorised Australian D2 Racing dealer with local support Price is fixed, fully inclusive of all taxes and freight to Australia.

Somewhere around 365rwkw from memory/19psi, was a long time ago now (12 months easily), and the exhaust i put on ($100 special) was a tad restrictive, knew that before i put it on there. You're also running very different tyre setup too. Just bury the foot and hit 8200 already or I'll come do it for ya lol

On a loaded dyno it's almost the same Bris, which I've always found interesting. But the -5s hold the torque curve on the dyno longer no doubt Having had both sets of turbos it's clearly different once you actually drive it. -5s kept hauling ass to 8500rpm on my car with a Racepace head and stock cams no worries -9s were all over by around 7500rpm with the same motor config Chris has done a 1:19 with the -7s on he AO50 i believe, which is pretty nuts and he reckons there was more in that... But alas 2.8ltr and -5s now so we will never know. That said having seen the 2.8/-5 on the weekend, fark me it builds speed fast even @ motorkhana stuff, clearly faster than my 2.6 with -5s outta the hole Having driven Micks 34 on the weekend as well (stock turbos still), -9s dont fall over as hard as them so a good middle ground. Loved the rush of the -5s and on a high speed track they would smash the -9s on a strictly track sense. Although Winton/Wakefield you'd think would favour the smaller ones (unless you are over 400rwkw on super budget type stuff).

Christian will need to fix it. He is a busy man 24hrs won't get it resolved - patience.

1000 Pounds is $1530 AUS for the fronts + $150 taxes + $150 shipping + $150 ADR lines So you'll be spending a minimum of $2,000 fronts alone to get them landed (so $200-$300 more), and dealing with an overseas company that should something go wrong, you're stuffed. The rears are different story that's the price I was told - if that's the best, and it's still cheaper, then that's it really? I can't see how it's $700 AUD less, it's clearly more expensive.

You'd need to talk with VicRoads/VASS Engineer about that with regard to a 4door, i don't remember reading it anywhere.

You'd be surprised, interstate people have posted in the wrong area's before, i back Nik on that lol Rollcages - the laws changed recently. I'd reccommend calling VicRoads and asking to speak to one of their engineers. Or calling a professional roll cage maker like Brown Davis in Bayswater. They should be up with the laws. Coilovers - you need to retain 2/3 the orignal suspension travel from memory, which almost no coil overs do. So as long as you run the correct ride height (over 100mm), you generally wont have a problem as not even the super-TMU's know much about in depth ADRs Seats - Must be recliner and fit the approved standard if you wanna keep the rear sets (speak to a VASS signatory like Enkelman in Braeside for how to get them legal, don't bother calling VicRoads about that, they won't know). Otherwise you can put in fixed back seats but you need to remove the rear seats, seat belts/buckles and re-rego the car as a 2-seater which needs a VASS Cert (engineers cert). If you get done - take the pricks to court. I have many times, and won. Just gotta be prepared to do it and after a couple of times you'll find they will back off. Also ensure you write a nice scathing letter to the Ombudsman about being victimised, feeling threatened in your own community etc and you should be fine after that. ECU/Boost controllers are instant failures and you can realistically never get them engineered/EPA/legal. It's too much cost here in Vic and too much effort. So when you do get pinned, swap to stock - my cars generally can be "made to stock" in an 60-90mins if you mod smartly, and you can still have 350rwkw+

Get out the sound meter They do flow, you were probably asking too much of a dual muffler 3.5" system really as you can never have such quiet and not have minor restriction at that size, for your power/flow levels. E85 just needs a bit more of everything - and certainly costly. Yeah my tri-pass radiator was sensational, 5 laps and tip top water temps but then I wasn't using E85 or as much boost, tyres would be off before the cooling system had an argument.

You went E85, you should've gone 4" dude. To pickup a tiny bit of power (and 34hp @ the fly is, tiny) when removing an entire muffler from a full exhaust system, isn't a major surprise. So it's not about the exhaust not flowing, it's about the wrong exhaust on a car for it's given application/setup I'll also bet it's no longer 90-92dB @ 5200rpm, which also wouldn't be a surprise with a single muffler exhaust vs a dual

Seems there was a bug, good thing that's been highlighted and fixed now