Duncan

Assuming it used to run without errors, either the crank angle sensor has failed, or it's wiring is damaged. swap it over for another one

its got to be a sticky relay. the attessa ones are both in the boot between the tail lights on the left of the lock

what engine? I've got at least one spare for an rb26. Even if not I think you can find them second hand, they are often removed when cooling systems are modifiied

Assuming you are not insured....otherwise call them I would have no concern pulling it back straight, all the upper radiator support does is hold the radiator, bonnet latch, horns and some wiring in approximately the right place. Yes the "proper" way to fix is to buy a new one from nissan, cut the old one out and weld a new one in. the only difference would be the latter would be much less obvious repair when you sell the car.

Personally I'd be deeply embarrassed to be seen in an evo, and I don't have specific suggestions. but you can find all workshops that can comply evo 8s in NSW here: http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubSearch.asp#results , i got 19. And yes one of them appears to be a trading name from good old sunrise cars/edward lees, since shut down to avoid legal action for winding back odometers

Why on earth would you need to add an engine number in the car? did you buy a new block and are concerned about rego?

Assuming the pedal is like a block of unresponsive wood, vacuum booster issue would be the most obvious. not sure exactly what you have checked from the post above...I'd check for Split in the line from the plenum to the one way valve to the vaucuum cannister to the booster under the master cylinder. Check the one way valve works properly (blow through should work one way but not the other) Possibly failed booster (although they are generally reliable) Easy to check the booster because the pedal will feel totally different when the car is stationary with engine off vs engine idling Alternatively it could be horrible pads, cracked brake pedal bracket. But they shouldnt feel *that* bad ABS seems unlikely, the most common failure is a leak and while there are lots of interesting internals I can't see how a hard pedal would be a result

lol yes, after 20 years and a couple of hundred thousand ks the limited seems to go missing, leaving a slip diff. Might have been the non-turbos that have an open rear diff

I suspect it's because that's what the import laws require. Furthermore they have to destroy all aftermarket parts and retain proof of their destruction. It is possible not all importers always follow the law though, there might be some bad apples out there.

Isn't the auto also an open diff? not sure....the manual is viscous LSD

hmm well it looks like Liam's awesome run of reliability (luck?) has come to an end, some sort of diff problem last night and retirement today Kel and Steve changed a gearbox after the symmons plains day and a kingpin bearing failed today but they've changed the upright and still going OK. 3rd in EM today. Looks like Ben's running 2nd in GT4 in the dirty subbie just behind super sub Timmy also in a dirty subbie, good luck guys I love Quinny's style.....what do you post up if you put your lambo up a bank? (and he blamed the bloody nissans and other rough cars ....)

lol evos are broken, not for broken men. And FWIW it weighed 1450ish with me onboard after qualy. damn quick little cars though... Since this thread is about the GTR build not my racing, here is my bathurst 6hrs story in pictures Practice and Qualy The race The crew and only CXC car that finished

good luck today, hope you have fun (and some good luck) out there

lol 747. nasty. good luck down there guys, Kel is heading down again too, looking to pick up her 10 year trophy (and I hope I didn't just jinx her)

factory tow hook at the front is very low, particularly if you are bogged 200mm down in a sand trap. I would not attach one of those straps in the factory location. here's where mine is and with the bar back on

very unlikely to be shim related, most likely you have seized pistons in both calipers, or potentially a wheel bearing issue (although less likely to happen on both sides).

Japan is a long way to go for something which can readily be made from a cut end of a tie down strap. Or if you want it in packaging the local race shops like Revolution racegear sell them. I've run a homemade one for years, there is no real downside to the longer one; if it moves around you could always cable tie it down. You will need a new hole in the bumper and a strong mount on the bumper reo somewhere.

if you get the vin we can FAST check....

there is a second tiny little stud (M5 or even m4 maybe) that it is meant to stop on next to the tensioner stud. sounds like yours is missing

Indeed....when has adding more lanes ever made traffic move faster? eg, 2 years after the major M2 upgrade: "The largest fall was on the M2 Hills Motorway from North Ryde to Carlingford, where the average afternoon peak hour speed plunged by 25km/h to 46km/h" [/size]http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/peak-hour-in-sydney-is-getting-worse--and-longer-data-shows-20160310-gnftvd.html#ixzz43UZPvpCq [/size] I was unfortunate enough to have to take that daily during the upgrade; full toll, horrible traffic, and once it was finished within a year or 2 it is back worse than ever. The only people who benefitted were Transurban and their shareholders

and don't worry, it's likely just 1 or 2 problems that haven't been found, not an overall lemon. these are well engineered and built cars, so once you get someone who knows them to sort it, it will probably be great

well actually. depending when your car was complied (or if it was), you may have had an Oz spec fuel filler restrictor installed (well, or poorly depending on the shop). these can affect how it breathes when filling and therefore make the pump cut off early. have a look at whether a restrictor was fitted, and consider removing it. I understand they are no longer required anyway

I did all mine with whiteline stuff recently, contact Sydneykid on these forums he has all the part numbers. It is a job best left to a mechanic unless you want a few solid days' worth of fun. And much harder without a press

both subframes I have here are 45.8mm long (W62925), however 3 in a row does not guarantee they all are

It's St Patrick's Day today. Double posting is to be sure, to be sure.