Duncan

yeah sorry, bit late now, but 5 year old semis will not be any good, even if they have been stored well over that time. And BTW p zero corsa are in the lower performing, higher price area where you probably don't want to be buying unless you have to (eg available sizes)

hey I'd know...I've been there once or twice

absolutely right. I'd treat nitto as a well priced high end option (ie for 5% of people) rather than a mass option. when looking into the race regs for production cars, nitto were the only forged rods and pistons that came close to stock weight....all other brands were 15-25% lighter than standard. Great for me because I have to run stock weight, but its just overhead and overkill for 95% of people. How many 1000hp engines are there in Australia?

yeah hyraulics were fine. This was a brand new clutch to replace the old one which used to slip if I launched over 6000 (as it did at PI that day). Not exactly what I was expecting. BTW I agree Marlin that wing would be effective. It is at the perfect hight to push around a car with an empty engine bay

ahh I've got the same challenge with my seat. the bride rails are about as low as you can get, but the cross in the cage on the roof will impact helmet room. I had to stick with only 1 diagonal on the roof for that reason

got my epson ej1 working with the nismo dash, and put in the new ricier EL hand controller for the PFC. my volvo is rice-ville!

sorry mate, no idea on life of the clutches at 50/50 split, although I could guess it may be better for them because they may not be slipping.

you are better just to use the standard GTR pump and accumulator. you just need a pulse width modulator output from whatever control unit you want to use. plenty of skyline race cars have tested various split levels, and the quickest has almost always been 50/50 fixed - however due to the much small front diff and driveshafts this most often ends with broken front bits. of course 50/50 may not be the best for your car, but it is about right for the skyline chasis.

no, the real frustration was Neil banning me from doing the enduro with no clutch

Can you try now?

damn, bad outcome. At least it is simple though.

It's RWD right? no 4wd sump adapter? I can only guess it's not caused by blowby if compression is good and there is plenty of breathing. Possibly only happens when the motor is running because when it stops the oil drains back to the sump below the leak? Pull the sump off and make sure both surfaces are flat, and well sealed with gasket goop.

how have you set up the cam cover breathers?

not normal, it's a skyline not a commodore! Best idea is to get it on a hoist and checked out. Most likely wear points are control arm bushes (put a big pry bar under each and see if there is any movement), or tailshaft centre bearing. Other possible problems are cv joints in the driveshaft, incorrectly adjusted diff (backlash) or gearbox, but they are les liekely. BTW I would guess your 70,000klm GTST has a 1 missing from the odometer. Who has a cool car like that for at least 13 years and only does 70,000?

Yes, you are OK to just block off that vacuum hose. You can remove the vacuum resoviour you circled as well, no longer required. The sensor in the heater lines must be related to the heater controls- the engine coolant sensor is at the front of the inlet manifold. For a race car you can disconnect that as well. BTW, you should start a build thread in the build section - there are lots of people interested and experienced in race car builds here

here was my weekend, NSW State Champs at Wakefield

no, the seem to be dead again

clean, straight anti squel shims. maybe a touch of anti squeal stuff (copper, goop, whatever) clean calipers, pins, springs, clips. dust allows movement that causes squeal straight, unwarped discs properly bedded pads. I've used probably 10 different types of pads including very aggressive race only pads, and none of them squeal when installed properly except super aggresive endurance racing pads.

lol keep digging. I need an unbroken centre console surround too after my car's last visit to a professional shop

hahah too late its in a moving box already. also got your ugly mug in some other mag from that dutton years ago. btw fit the r35 front bar to the shitbox rally car instead of the truck bull bar

OMG jenna is as famous as you now. I still have that ralph magazine article from 2002.

ahh that's kind of obvious i guess.....I'll grab a hammer and see if I can 'adjust' them. I did have the passenger seat out. but the driver's one works correctly....no seatbelt in = solid light on. don't think passenger side has a warning?

so...a bit of a strange one....today after removing the busted (again) head unit the seatbelt light was flashing on the dash (it stays solid when drivers seatbelt is undone). anyone have any idea what a flashing seatbelt light is telling me? other that the car missing at times, the only thing I can see wrong on the PFC is the alternator is putting out 15v not 14, might be the problem. nismo dash in a s1 C34 if that makes any difference

lol....look ever closelier....it will take phillips OR flat

yeah there is a wide variety in the currently available mixes. If you have tuned it aggresively I would stick to the same stuff it was tuned for. But for my use a less aggressive tune and $1/l is more important that a little more power at $2.5+/l. It is still cheap compared to most race fuels though