Duncan

I thought the squealing was meant to come from the passenger seat, not the brakes. Are you using factory brakes? And do you know what pads and rotors? More aggressive pads and rotors (eg race ones) are more likely to squeal, but it always comes down to being caused by a tiny vibration when the brakes are being used. You need to pull everything apart, including taking the disc off the hub. Make sure the hub surface that the disc sits on is flat and clean (ie no rust flakes etc). Clean the disc with brake cleaner, scuff the pad surface on some rough concrete to give it a new surface (they might be glazed), clean the rear of the pad and both sides of the anti-squeal shims thoroughly. Make sure the surface of the caliper piston that pushes on the pads is also clean. Then reassemble everything, and if you are still concerned you can buy anti squeal compounds to put between the back of the pad, and each side of the anti squeal shims, although that shouldn't be required and can affect pedal feel. For the pulling to the right, that suggests the pistons in your left caliper are sticking a little, you should be able to tell if the right pads and disc are wearing more than the left. Either way, a rebuild of the calipers might be due

I don't think that is good advice, if you attach a turbo oil feed to a welch plug you will get coolant, not oil in most cases. In this case the oil feed seems to be there, it is just a question of making sure is connected right through.

well just be aware that if you want to hook up some generic switch, it will need to be good quality / high ampage, that is why the original fails. At least 20A rated.

No, the auto and manual consoles are quite different, and there was no s1 manual

Yeah mine shorted out but at least it only melted instead of burning the car down

Of course, it could be a wiring loom or globe issue, so unplug the left headlight and check for 12v when the lights are on low and high

sorry, to read that diagram and test the switch, you need a multimeter on continuity mode. You check the pins from the middle diagram, and the top diagram shows what should be connected when the switch is in particular settings. For example, on OFF, no pins should have continuity to each other. In low, 40, 41 should be connected. In high, 36 should be connected to 37, 38 to 39 and 40 to 41. I guess 42 is earth for the switch's lighting

Last I had to check, if your multi-meter-ing shows it is a dodgy switch (likely), they are available to replace new. *edit* yes, still available: https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-head-light-switch-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts not cheap, but neither is a skyline these days

welcome Ben, looks like you have a bit to do...

Well, like tyres, when it comes to suspension (shocks in particular), a good brand will have a range of options at different price points, so there's no point talking about a brand overall. Noting you are not in Aus so availability might be different, I would go: cheap - BC racing medium - Bilstein B6 with adjustable circlip grooves (this is what I run on my race/rally car) serious - MCA Gold And yes, none of them are japanese....for Australian roads the japanese spring (and therefore shock) rates are almost always too high to be comfortable. There were some local companies modifying Teins with good outcomes but I don't think they are available any more

Awesome updates, thanks for posting. Did I get it right that the auto you bought had a clutch pedal installed BTW how is grumblebee? haven't seen it in a long time.....

Interesting. That diagram you show matches amayama The part I showed was at the bottom of the filler neck at the tank inlet, but neither this pic nor yours shows a part there. It does however show a part 17370M which is described as "anti roll over valve" in a totally different area I haven't come across this before but I assume it was some sort of running change during the series (mine is very late model S1), so maybe it is a S2 part and the catalogue is wrong for this vin (or maybe the tank in mine is actually from another model) If someone can share a S2 VIN, I can check that out

Not really, the second one uses blue hose

#rblyf

absolutely, either a specific product or just throw some diesel in with the oil for 5 minutes.

The extra detail does help. What was it that made you check for a headgasket issue in the first place if it never got hot? I'm thinking it might be fine and the milkshake is just from the original failure. Try changing the oil again and see if it is getting better or still bad. The coolant pressure test is a good check but it can miss an issue which only occurs when hot or at much higher pressures (like compression pressure)

We might be able to advise you better with more detail. When you say What did you notice happened, and what have you done since? For example, did the car run hot? did oil/water mix in the engine, and if so how did you flush the block, oil cooler (if fitted), oil/water interchange (if fitted), radiator? did you use new head bolts/studs? did you get the head checked for straightness? after you prepped the block surface with a sharpening block/wd40, how did you check it for straightness?

Yeah, 'murica has a habit of calling a car the model for the following year. Ie, they are about to start selling the 2024 q50 But you can't directly assume the features are picked up in each car at the same time; those decisions are made by marketing, not engineering

Can you take us back to the start? Why were you doing the head gasket in the first place? It is possible to get simple things wrong in this job.... Did you check every hole in the supplied head gasket matched the block and head orifices? What procedure did you follow to tighten down the head? Do you know your torque wrench is calibrated properly? Are the head bolts still tight now? Also I remember something about some blocks and needing to seal studs to the water jacket, not sure if that was rb30 though

Right, so still been using the Stagea heaps as the Fuga is not back yet (maybe next week they say). But, unfortunately it failed to proceed (as the Bentley people would say) and Kel had to give me a flat tow back home. Not to the bottom of that issue yet so I'll post up more once it is sorted. In the meantime, I had an interesting discovery (noting, I might be the only person in the R chassis world who didn't already know this). As part of chasing what seems to be a fuel issue, I dropped the fuel tank in the Stagea. Since I had just done this in the race car a few weeks back it struck me they were suspiciously similar. Put them side by side, and voila, WGNC34 and BNR32 fuel tanks are interchangeable (R32 on left) Not exactly identical as there are different breathers between them (R32 on right) Different part numbers but identical outer shape Also the stagea tank has some sort of baffling internally (terrible focus) And, in an cool discovery for anyone tracking a R32 GTR, the good people at Nissan fitted a factory roll over valve in the stagea fuel tank filler neck that would also fit in a 32. No idea if they are still available new but they look like a good thing.

Sorry I missed this post in all the replies since, thanks for checking it out! I know they are a special order item, I have the steps installed but all 4 arms are seized. They were awesome when working, turns out they pins are not well chromed and need regular cleaning and greasing to keep them alive in dirty/wet conditions (and let's face it, what other conditions are there for a rural pick up). I just need to catch AMP again during their/your business hours and find out someone reliable I can order them through. Good luck getting your problems sorted.

This either either totally unhelpful or maybe half helpful depending how you look at it....but I remember a thread on the same question in the last year or 2, so have a look back a bit deeper in this forum

Does sound like a head gasket or cracked block, neither of which are common

I don't know what that list is, but it does not have almost every import on it under Nissan; the only ones I could spot were Titan and Almera. There are a bunch of other things like Performax Nissan but I couldn't find them there either You can get a copy of the import approval from DOTARS, that might help instead. Last I got one, the email was: Vehicle Imports <[email protected]>

yeah its good around town but a pain on the freeway, you have to keep an eye on whether the speed is being limited by cruise so you know to overtake, and it starts crazy far out.