Duncan

OK, finally warm enough to not freeze in the garage, so v1 of the rear panel rodent excluder is in place. Cut a section from ally flyscreen mesh The plan was to sika it in place, but happily there was flange on the unit so I used the magic of cable ties to install it. I'll check it at the end of a season and see if its still in place...

Got a pic or diagram of the bush you are after?

I just keep a spare of the lift and main fuel pump in the track parts kit. Easy enough to swap over if one fails, and easy to tell if one fails with fuel pressure alarm/display/logging

Not as purple as an HKS one

Done

The mesh definitely goes inside the bumper. I don't know how the 33 one is attached but in the 32 the mesh is held by clips which go behind the mesh, biting into plastic teeth that are moulded into the bumper. After 30+ years those teeth may be gone and you'll have to use cable ties like everyone else...

Yeah, I'm not 100% sure on rb25 but in rb26 there is a sub loom for the engine that has knock sensors, oil pressure and temp gauges, starter motor signal and a couple of other things.

Best not to connect a heater hose there, they are actually knock sensors and the wiring harness plugs into them

lol looks like wrong thread, I've got a short attention span. you should be able to tell as soon as you bolt the wheel with tyre on if you are going to hit the strut

Sorry, I should add, your alignment should be reasonably correct before you test it because it can make e big difference to the geometry. Camber can tuck the wheel inside the guard at full compression, caster can cause clearance issues to the front bar, correct individual and total toe can affect wheel location at full lock etc etc

It's very straightforward to check. Just take the springs off each corner, put the shocks/struts back in. On the hoist, put the rear on a jack and move it through the full range up and down, just needs a mm or 2 for tyre deflection. At the front same deal except turn from lock to lock at say 5 points in the travel as well (top bottom middle and the in betweens). With the GTR, the first place it hit was on the front bar at mid travel with wheels turned, because the caster pulls the wheel forward towards the bar compared to factory. Obviously you've dealt with the inner shoulder on control arm already, the other place is full lock, full compression hitting the inner guards

Re the fuses, when I moved to a PDM I removed all except 2 fuses from the car - the only 2 remaining are one for the Rallysafe so it has direct electrical connection to the battery, and the other is the power supply to turn on the PDM itself. I did what you said, made a little cf panel with 2 panel mount fuse holders. I also added a simple battery voltage check where a momentary switch provides 12v to a voltage display to help any trouble shooting. Then I went and repeated that dumb mistake and mounted it well under the dash where I can't access it (which was a pain when the Rallysafe fuse popped one day. I'll be moving it to an accessible location somewhere, maybe where they ashtray was (since I can't find one for a reasonable price)

The springs seem like a reasonable start for track work, although you probably want adjustable sway bars as well. The adjustable arms themselves are no use, you need to know the alignment. Generally you want a little toe in to 0 static at the rear for stability and at the front as much caster as you can get, camber you can decide by tyre wear but around 3-4o From there, basically the more tyre grip you have, the less roll you want as the cornering forces increase. So best get the semis on (some are better than others, and new is always better than old) to see how the balance is front to rear. Also, a locked diff is NFG for track work. You want a mechanical LSD, preferably 1 or 1.5 way

Lots of choices out there these days, but if you current pump is working and you are not running out of fuel during tuning there is no benefit to changing it

Welcome Bryce, and you could either ask in this thread, or in the RB series forum for more complex questions https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/79-rb-series-r31-r32-r33-r34-1986-2002/

They look excellent. Michelin is a bit of an odd choice unless they are second hand off porsche cup or similar though?

fitment looks great, but they are super low profile tyres for track use

Please link me to 5x $10k GTRs, I will buy them now for parts

I have not been through the process under the new rules, but it looks like any car > 25 years should be possible https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/department/media/news/how-import-your-older-vehicle-25-years-or-older However, not that if they are not on the RAV you have to apply and get them approved, this may not be simple (or possible), so best get advice from someone who has been through it

Does the 4wd actually work at all? Since it is at a shop they could put it in gear on the hoist and make sure all 4 wheels turn. Potentially not being able to get pressure in the system would look the same as the switch failing because it would always be on. Increasing numbers of R32 owners have had to replace the nitrogen cannister to get pressure in the system (otherwise the relay clicks regularly as the pump keeps turning on. Since the scan tools are not nissan consult, they may or may not be able to read the attessa computer as well, so the second scan not finding anything may not mean too muc.

Well firstly, good searching. I'm not convinced there is a definitive answer (noting pipster11 quotes a translated workshop manual which is a good sign). The accepted knowledge on the forums is that in 33 and 34 platforms, even with the electronics off there is still some potential drag on the clutches inside the transfer case. That means that even if the front wheels don't turn any more, the transfer case clutches themselves may be slipping and causing damage (requires a rebuild to fix). My guess is that people who have said it works OK had worn transfer cases already and they may not have much 4wd in the first place. To be safe I take the driveshaft out if I am putting the Stagea on a 2wd dyno, it is 4 bolts and out it comes. In the 32 platform the setup is different (slower) and it is OK to electronically disconnect 4wd (remove the fuse, use a 4wd controller to turn it off etc)

In that case, leave the socket on there and bash the back of the socket (hopefully its an impact socket) Its tricky to give specific advice without knowing the exact setup (which model skyline is it?), but I guess it is something like aluminium on steel galling, so heat and shock are the answer

Did you take the nut off? OK kidding! But put it back on so it is just before level with the end of the driveshaft, then bash that (straight on) with a heavy metal hammer

A pic of that might be helpful, if the cross member is bent the car has had some sort of hit along the way and wheel alignment might be an issue

My tip is....it's bogan cruise ship, not harley, weather down here at the moment mate