Duncan

sure, just PM me your email....

man, you have a sickness

Someone more Haltech friendly than me could answer, noting Plat Pro is pretty old software. I believe R34 had a MAP sensor from factory and the Haltech could be configured to use the External Map instead of the Internal/Onboard sensor. In my R32 the factory MAP was removed long ago (it only runs the boost gauge and doesn't go to ECU), so I had to connect a vacuum source to the internal sensor nipple. The vacuum source has to be after the throttle(s)

Can I ask if you have a vacuum/boost source connected to the nipple on the ECU? If so, where is the source?

They are pretty much mandatory for hoist lyfe.....many jobs need to be supported temporarily while working

Great idea. Once apon a time there were gauge pods available that replaced the stock clock above the dash as well, would be great to see an option for a printed replacement. How is the visibility to the gauge from the driver's seat?

Dose will drop by in exchange for a passenger ride in something euro

While I was rolling around on cold concrete (I'm too old for this shit, I need a hoist again), I noticed the v1 nocas rack from 2005 had broken in the accident, so out it came. You can see the welds split on the left, but to be fair it lasted 15 years of race rally abuse before the tree was a hit too far These days of course aftermarket is easy, I went GKtech because black and looks reasonable quality I check the inner ends, they were in good condition (not original, I put them in about 5 years ago). Measured the distance between the inner tie rods ends to try and get the wheels pointing something like straight ahead until they get to an alignment and swapped the inner and outer arms over. The Gteck centre was 3.5mm narrower than the old nocas rack so I spaced the arms out with washers When to fit the arms up and found out that the old rack was definately off centre, so I kept the same spacing but took 5mm from one side and added 5mm to the other. I'll try and point the wheels straight once everything is back together, and then will see how hard the alignment guy laughs when he checks my effort I did have trouble with the nut on the left ball joint being stripped (possibly crash damage, who knows), and f**k me if I didn't actually have a spare of exactly the right m10x1.25 half height nut. Happy days, 2 jobs down, 1 million to go

OK, finally warm enough to not freeze in the garage, so v1 of the rear panel rodent excluder is in place. Cut a section from ally flyscreen mesh The plan was to sika it in place, but happily there was flange on the unit so I used the magic of cable ties to install it. I'll check it at the end of a season and see if its still in place...

Got a pic or diagram of the bush you are after?

I just keep a spare of the lift and main fuel pump in the track parts kit. Easy enough to swap over if one fails, and easy to tell if one fails with fuel pressure alarm/display/logging

Not as purple as an HKS one

Done

The mesh definitely goes inside the bumper. I don't know how the 33 one is attached but in the 32 the mesh is held by clips which go behind the mesh, biting into plastic teeth that are moulded into the bumper. After 30+ years those teeth may be gone and you'll have to use cable ties like everyone else...

Yeah, I'm not 100% sure on rb25 but in rb26 there is a sub loom for the engine that has knock sensors, oil pressure and temp gauges, starter motor signal and a couple of other things.

Best not to connect a heater hose there, they are actually knock sensors and the wiring harness plugs into them

lol looks like wrong thread, I've got a short attention span. you should be able to tell as soon as you bolt the wheel with tyre on if you are going to hit the strut

Sorry, I should add, your alignment should be reasonably correct before you test it because it can make e big difference to the geometry. Camber can tuck the wheel inside the guard at full compression, caster can cause clearance issues to the front bar, correct individual and total toe can affect wheel location at full lock etc etc

It's very straightforward to check. Just take the springs off each corner, put the shocks/struts back in. On the hoist, put the rear on a jack and move it through the full range up and down, just needs a mm or 2 for tyre deflection. At the front same deal except turn from lock to lock at say 5 points in the travel as well (top bottom middle and the in betweens). With the GTR, the first place it hit was on the front bar at mid travel with wheels turned, because the caster pulls the wheel forward towards the bar compared to factory. Obviously you've dealt with the inner shoulder on control arm already, the other place is full lock, full compression hitting the inner guards

Re the fuses, when I moved to a PDM I removed all except 2 fuses from the car - the only 2 remaining are one for the Rallysafe so it has direct electrical connection to the battery, and the other is the power supply to turn on the PDM itself. I did what you said, made a little cf panel with 2 panel mount fuse holders. I also added a simple battery voltage check where a momentary switch provides 12v to a voltage display to help any trouble shooting. Then I went and repeated that dumb mistake and mounted it well under the dash where I can't access it (which was a pain when the Rallysafe fuse popped one day. I'll be moving it to an accessible location somewhere, maybe where they ashtray was (since I can't find one for a reasonable price)

The springs seem like a reasonable start for track work, although you probably want adjustable sway bars as well. The adjustable arms themselves are no use, you need to know the alignment. Generally you want a little toe in to 0 static at the rear for stability and at the front as much caster as you can get, camber you can decide by tyre wear but around 3-4o From there, basically the more tyre grip you have, the less roll you want as the cornering forces increase. So best get the semis on (some are better than others, and new is always better than old) to see how the balance is front to rear. Also, a locked diff is NFG for track work. You want a mechanical LSD, preferably 1 or 1.5 way

Lots of choices out there these days, but if you current pump is working and you are not running out of fuel during tuning there is no benefit to changing it

Welcome Bryce, and you could either ask in this thread, or in the RB series forum for more complex questions https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/79-rb-series-r31-r32-r33-r34-1986-2002/

They look excellent. Michelin is a bit of an odd choice unless they are second hand off porsche cup or similar though?

fitment looks great, but they are super low profile tyres for track use