Duncan

90 is certainly not dangerously hot, obviously you want temperature to be stable when idling and driving at low speeds but it would have to get much hotter to do any damage

But, did I correctly understand.....it doesn't overheat idling and stationery? That is normally when a poor quality fan or fan install causes issues.

That's a "twin pass" radiator, there is a divider in the centre of the core forcing water to go to the other side before it can reach the exit. Much more expensive design, if a radiator has that it will say so

Spent half the day washing the stagea so it's not so obviously a farm bitch. Hopefully there is a category for 400kw, 400,000klm family vehicle, I'm a chance.....

Either way, if you can crush it with your fingers it won't directly damage a gear. I'd do as you suggested, fill it with something cheap, run a few klm, flush and refill.

Thats pretty much exactly where my filter is on the race car, no issues so far, obviously the GTR has a pair of BOVs forward and below that would get hit first. I also have my oil cooler thermostat block up and forward of that location. It's all still behind the reo but potentially a problem in a medium or larger front crash Also, having it angled down like that really helps tidy oil changes, and access to that location is good without getting under the car

Hard to be sure without more context in the picture, but likely that is the transfer case oil drain. The fill is higher and on the side (or, you could fill the transfer case through the shifter, not the shifter does not go into the gearbox case so you can't fill gearbox oil that way). You said you put Motul ATF in the transfer case, how did you drain it first?

When you say "motor was locked", when, how did you learn that, and what did you do to unlock it? The resistor pack should have 5ohm between pin 3 and all other pins If you want to test the spark side, here are the resistor pack and coil pack values Noting this is RB26 not Rb20, but 99% sure they are the same

Is the purpose of the SGI box just to keep speed sensitive power steering? Because the ic7 and Plat Pro both run off the Haltech GPS, right? I've been running without speedo input to the ECU for about 15 years since I removed the standard speed limiter (by cutting the speed wire :)), have only decided to add it back in lately when IC7 gained odometer function which is super useful for fuel planning in rallies. No idea why but I've never had a heavy steering issue (or maybe it's just heavy and I've never noticed because race car)

Basically, yes. The fuseable links are required unless you've changed the wiring but they are just spade connections I use one of these as a lot changed when I moved to a PDM, although note it is for large terminal battery SAE not the JIC factory style. https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/projecta-battery-distribution-terminal-3-stud-positive-bt925-p1

But not too hard, give future you a chance to get it back out....

It isn't hyro-locked, if it was it would not turn on the starter. However, that doesn't rule out a bent rod (rods will bend as they are applying the force from the crank, valves will be fine) The JECS resistor pack is just a set of resistors that increase the resistance to the injectors, it won't have failed, particularly if the injectors are opening/closing when you turn the CAS. The ignitor pack on the other hand might be an issue, perhaps the spark is weak. However, on thinking again, I wonder about the exhaust and in particular muffler being blocked. Can you disconnect the exhaust from the front pipe down near the gearbox and try again?

I'd be crying too if I had an Evo 9

Time to upgrade from BMW to Skylines mate. If you are super rich and find some sucker to buy the BMW, you could even afford an RB series one

I'm glad the Wakie petition is getting good support, but it is pretty sad that 6,000 people less cared about Sydney's Koalas. Sign that one too!

If the engine turns, air will be moved from the intake to the exhaust. An engine is just an air pump. I've got no direct expertise with a physically flooded car, but like you said the basics will always turn up the answer. So, fuel, spark, compression, and the timing of the the three. I'm not convinced your test for good fuel is sufficient. I would still drain and replace all of it. Just because you can ignite some in open air doesn't mean there isn't water in it. You've got to do a compression test. It is absolutely possible there was water in there when you first tried to start it, you've said both the turbo and intercooler had water in them so some water must have been sucked through the intake into the motor On electrical, the whole system's key job is to apply fuel and spark at the right time in the compression cycle to burn. If you have turned the CAS manually and heard the injectors click and seen spark at each plug, you have enough for it to at least cough even if not start (because there might be secondary issues like restricted air, fuel pressure, idle air control etc etc). When you said "starting fluid" have you tried spring some start ya bastard in it while cranking? If you have compression and timed spark it should cough or run for a couple of seconds

Don't worry about missing wheel nuts/bolts until the 3rd one fails. 4 will be fine indefinitely unless you are heading to the track. But if I can just add, I know brand tradition is important, and I kind of get it with an over the top modernisation of a kidney shaped grille from the 70s....but using a wheel bolt is an arsehole of a way to locate and affix a wheel compared to a stud and nut

Does anyone have an RB25 AAC valve that they don't need? I'm after one for parts (looking at you Dose....)

There are more modern ways to do it, but what I've described has been working fine on setups like this for 30 years....

well, that sucks. So it cranks OK but no sign of starting? Is there any possibility of water in the fuel via breathers? I'd drain and refill the tank, although you did mention you tried "starting fluid" Also, you probably need to change engine oil, gearbox and diff fluids, they all have breathers.

Good update, thanks

So true, I went from hoist back to ground (well quick jacks, but they are only a little better than chassis stands), it sucks!

That's f**king awesome, and who knew you had a Skyline as well! Good news for old bones I guess you couldn't go clear floor due to ceiling height, how is it getting the car over the link?

Yes, and you have the option of masking your phone too (for extra cost of course). But Dose is better putting in the swap section of the Trading Post. "Jousting Sticks!"

A slightly larger than standard aftermarket fuel pump is a good idea if you have -5s and a tune in it. You don't need to go significantly larger. The stock airbox is fine for -5s and beyond. Since you have some sort of ECU just take the trigger wire from the ECU to standard fuel pump relay, run a fused wire from the battery to a new relay and replace the fuel pump ground with one direct to chassis. This will bypass the factory fuel resistor and upgrade the wiring giving about 10% more voltage to the pump As for the rest, it is difficult to advise without more information. Generally -5s would have upgraded injectors, factory ones run out about 250awkw. You should be able to tell from the tune file if you can read it. You would normally have 3" exhaust to support that too. FPR does not need to change and nor do fuel lines (unless they are old). Spark will also be fine if it is working correctly. Do you know maximum boost level? You might already have or might consider changing cams or even just adding cam gears for that level of tune, and it will probably have noticeable lag with full boost over 4,000 I'd still strongly recommend changing the timing belt etc unless you are certain about it. RB26 is an interference engine, so a failed timing belt will munch the valves. Considering these cars are 33 years old, they respond very easily to around 2x factory power. From there some weaknesses need to be addressed. Re transfer case, correct it fills just like the gearbox. It takes ATF, I use Castrol Transmax Z in the race car. The ATTESSA system takes the same stuff and you bleed it at 2 nipples; first at the rear of the transfer case and then above the rear driveshaft. When the engine is running or that bypass connector is open the pump bleeds continuously.