Duncan

Sounds like you 've had a bad run there, I've never seen paint damaged like that

good call

neutral switch to the rear, reverse switch to the front that other cover where the breather support goes though, you need to confirm what goes there. CH-80 in the GTR manual suggests there should be a spring and interlock ball in there, if so you need to confirm and put them in there.

Good idea to check those flanges, is there enough meat to get them milled flat again? You don't need issues with the manifolds sealing once everything is in. I've never made a set but I understand the go is to tack the flange to some much heavier steel box or even i beam to ensure it stays straight

That is a good diagram, but it doesn't show where the temp sender is (and it is kind of a moot point since you are looking for rb25 not rb26). It does show the filter is the last thing before the main oil gallery which makes sense, you want the oil to be cleanest when it enters the engine. You are right, the oil warmer is of use in cold climates in the morning, although the alternative is just to go easy until the oil is up to temp (which is of course what you would do anyway), I don't know how much difference it makes in warm up time. The reason I like the relocator kit is that it both gives a great place for oil senders, and lets you move the filter somewhere nice (whether that is for you or a mechanic). You don't need to do an oil cooler at the same time but it makes it easier if you decide to later (you just run the out from the engine to the oil cooler, and the other oil cooler port to the in on the filter mount) An oil sandwich block can also work but has 2 problems compared to relocating. 1 they are generally screw mount (using the oil filter thread) so you need to make sure they are done up tight and stay done up tight. 2 they space the oil filter out (say 20mm? depending on model) which can make it VERY tight for a decent sized oil filter, and for the hand/tools that are changing the oil filter

Sorry, I should add, you may have troubles bedding the rings on cylinder 3 if you have had an injector problem. It is probably worth getting it on a dyno to run the engine in once the injector is sorted as it may never break the glaze on the bore with just street driving

good choice! so, almost certainly injector was stuck open. clean/test or replace injector, problem solved. How was it running BTW? It should have been missfiring with that much fuel in cyl 3

while it sounds like a pain, the best way to address this is probably an adapter on the block and a remote oil filter mount somewhere convenient for oil changes (I put mine upside down near the sump so easy to access underneath and it drains oil straight into an oil pan Like this: https://www.efisolutions.com.au/oil-filter-relocation-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26-rb30 The trickiest bit is that you will have to cut the hose to length and assemble the ends. It is a straightforward job but can seem intimidating first time you do it. If you choose the black instead of silver line all you need is a hacksaw, vice, some imperial spanners and attention to detail. And it is a good opportunity if you want to add an oil cooler as well because you already have everything you need except the cooler itself. Re the oil warmer etc, the RB26 system has the warmer between the block and the filter, and the factory oil temp and pressure sensors is in the warmer's casting according to the manual. I don't physically have one any more to check, but I expect (hope) the oil goes to the sensor before the warmer, it's not much point knowing a temperature different to what it is at the actual engine components.

As long as the sender is in the oil path to the interwarmer, its all good. Any properly designed sandwich block should work that way. I used a t piece initially (because easy) but wasn't happy I was getting accurate results. My current setup has it in the oil thermostat block, pressure sender goes there too.

I think there is a place for remote mounting pressure sensors. In an endurance race car perhaps. But back to your original question.....pressure can go anywhere because you have the same pressure everywhere in the system (between the pump and the oil galleries at least). However, you do need to be more careful with your temperature location. It needs to be in a freely flowing oil gallery rather than it a t piece out of the way, and it needs to be before the oil cooler so it gets properly flowing oil at the hottest point in the system

The main thing I can say is setting your goals by dyno sheet is likely to be disappointing (too expensive and not nice to drive). Anything more than 300rkww will be wheelspin city in 1st and 2nd. For genuine fast street fun I would stay under 350rwkw and put the best tyres you can on it; this will also cost about half as much as 450+ like you are talking above.

I only got 30klm out of one of mine, but that was an rb26 not a 25

I've never put them back, and never had a head gasket issue (not that the race car runs big boost or power)

Yes, change the oil. And before that, check the oil level as a major fuel leak to the sump will show up as overfilled oil It will be pretty obvious if the oil is fuelly.

Good choice, they will be Nissan's last petrol performance car for sure. We are looking at importing one for race/rally use atm

No, it has rods and pistons and a GTW3884R. All the best with your build

Looks like a big job. How did you go with clearance for steering rack and anything else down there?

perfect

Yes, but to be fair it didn't move far, you can see the cap of the reservoir in that pic too.

well, I can see"...a rectangular box at the rear right of the engine bay with a series of brake lines in and out...." so ABS it is

This is the high mount exhaust manifold in my Stagea. The ABS is behind the heatshielding in the top right. I have absolutely no idea how any high mount manifold could ever foul the ABS, but regardless choosing the ABS version would be both most likely correct , and least likely to have any fouling issue. If you can't get a pic of your engine bay and in doubt, ask them if the ABS version would be a problem in a non-ABS car (and why)

Not a lot of information in that question. Can't see how any manifold on the car affects ABS, even a high mount exhaust manifold is miles away from it. Anyway, ABS is a rectangular box at the rear right of the engine bay with a series of brake lines in and out. If you don't know what it looks like, a pic of your engine bay would help. I've never heard of a Stagea without ABS

If you can have the car off the road and have space to work on it, taking the dash out is not such a big deal. Just take it slowly, label what you disconnect and it is pretty straightforward.

hopefully the tank is pretty empty....pull fuel pump fuse, crank until it does not run any more, remove fuel lines from fuel pump cradle lid, unplug pump and sender wire, take the lid off, check that the sender arm is connected properly to the cradle. If so, use a multimeter to check continuity between the sender scale and the plug on the top of the hat. If that is OK, pull the dash, find the wire for fuel level and check it has continuity with the wire that plugs to the top of the cradle

awesome, thanks for the quick response and I'd appreciate the tailshaft check too when you get a chance. that way I can do my bit to keep a hectic drifter a on track somehwere