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Black R32

R32 Gtr Attessa Fluid

23 posts in this topic

After searching the Forums and the whole internet and i could not find a full write up on this. Everyone seems to have mixed opinions and different explanation of how to do it. And not having a manual or any thing else to go by, i decided to do a write up on it after i figured it out. So here it is, full of pictures. In color too. :P

WHAT YOU'LL NEED:

10mm Ring Spanner

A Piece of clear hose measuring about a foot long and an internal diameter of about 6mm.

About 3-4 litres of Automatic Transmission Fluid/Dexron III (You can use the original Nissan Fluid, but it's damn expensive)

A Funnel.

Bucket or drip tray.

How to:

If your talented enough you can probably do it on your own but i would reccomend having two people. One to open the bleed valve under the car and one to keep refilling to bottle in the boot.

Now onto the process

1. Drive the car up on ramps. Or jack it up and put it up on jack stands.

2. Lay down some card board if you dont have a creeper.

3. Inside the boot on the drivers side is a removable panel. Behind this panel is the bottle of fluid. This is where you will refill it from.

ATTESSA_001.jpg

4. In the drivers side foot well. On the right hand side, there is a kick panel. After removing this you will find a lot of wires and only one plug. A white plug with a Yellow Wire with Green Stripes coming in and out of it. This is the "Air bleed connector". You must unplug this.

ATTESSA_003.jpg

Close up

ATTESSA_002.jpg

5. Going under the car from the front, slide towards the back of the car till you come to the back of the gearbox. At the back of the gearbox and the transfer case, just where the tailshaft begins, you will see a hose coming from the back of the car. This pipe runs to the ATTESSA Pump. Just above this hose is the Bleed nipple. This should have a little black cap on it.

ATTESSA_005.jpg

6. Turn the ignition on. Don't start the car just turn the ignition on.

7. Now you need one person at the back of the car with the funnel in the top of the bottle. And one person under the car. The person under the car must put the ring spanner on the bleed nipple, then place the piece of clear tubing over the nipple. Now with the other end of the tubing, put it in the bucket.

Crack (Undo a little) the bleed nipple. Now the pump recognises a pressure drop and starts the pump intermittently. Only run the pump for around a 30 seconds to minute at a time. Tighten up the bleed nipple and the pump will stop.

Keep doing this procedure till the fluid coming out of the clear tubing turns pink. (Or what ever color fluid you are pouring in.)

8. After all this, tighten up the bleed valve, put the cap back on the bottle, plug the wire back in, put all the trim back and away you go.

Finish

ENJOY

If anyone should find fault in this write up, please notify me and i shall make the adjustments. As i had no manual or anything to go by this is just my way of doing it. And all from just interpreting a mixture of other peoples ideas and explanations

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Good description, well done. One thing tho - there's also a bleed nipple on the ATESSA pump itself, which should be used to bleed the pump first. It's a bit hard to see, but it's on the bottom of the pump and can be accessed from the drivers side of the diff just above the RH drive shaft.

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yeah we bled that too, but looking at how it all works we weren't sure whether it would be neccisary to put that up. thanks

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I assume the process is the same for the R33?

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Crack (Undo a little) the bleed nipple. Now the pump recognises a pressure drop and starts the pump intermittently. Only run the pump for around a 30 seconds to minute at a time. Tighten up the bleed nipple and the pump will stop.

Keep doing this procedure till the fluid coming out of the clear tubing turns pink. (Or what ever color fluid you are pouring in.)

This section should explain that you should bleed until the reservior is empty and then start pouring in the new stuff otherwise you get a mix of old and new. Seems obviously but, ya know!

Great tutorial BTW, I will definetely be using this soon :P

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This section should explain that you should bleed until the reservior is empty and then start pouring in the new stuff otherwise you get a mix of old and new. Seems obviously but, ya know!

Great tutorial BTW, I will definetely be using this soon :P

I know your not supposed to reply here but if you let the reseviour run dry you will fill the system with air and possbily have more of a problemt han when you started. The best way to do this is to remove the old fluid from the reseviour with a sucker like the kind you use with an air compressor. Same as doing a brake bleed.

Once again sorry for replying here but i thought it may be worth making obvious.

Regards,

Deren

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noob question.. What fluid can i use for the attessa??? also i turn my car on and the 4wd light just stays on and when driving there is no 4wd .. the 2 fuses (1 under steering column, other in engine bay) are fine and nothing wrong with them. Someone please let me know how i can fix this or where to look. Cheers.

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i believe the correct fluid is nissan matic D. i have a question. how much fluid do you need for this job?

also: what fluid is uses inside the transfer case? from memory it's ATF too?

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Where can i get this Nissan Matic D from and how much does it cost?

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attesa is meant to take Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special according to the manual.

i used ATF from repco (from memory) though I can't remember how much.

I will check tonight.

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noob question.. What fluid can i use for the attessa??? also i turn my car on and the 4wd light just stays on and when driving there is no 4wd .. the 2 fuses (1 under steering column, other in engine bay) are fine and nothing wrong with them. Someone please let me know how i can fix this or where to look. Cheers.

a search will reveal this, GRKGTR :D

if the 4wd light stays on, you probably have a problem with attesa.

what car is this?

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Yeh its all good i figured out the problem loll.... 4wd light on coz no attessa fluid :P

R32 GTR btw.

Edited by GRKGTR

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in the manual it also says to bleed the return line, does anyone know where the bleeder is for that? It also says that there sould only be a max of 5mm of air in the tank (see pic)

post-5985-1169981554.jpg

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do a search - there's a great photo tutorial in the diy section. the bleed valve is under the car. it's best to have two people on this job.

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can i use ATF for my 4wd?

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sorry for asking a question in here, but as everyone else has i thought i might aswell instead of creating a new topic.

Just wanted to know something exactly before i go ahead with this procedure.

When im at the stage of sucking the fluid out through the nipple, does the other guy in the boot pour the new fluid in at the same time?

Cheers,

Steve.

Edited by GTS4-32

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You don't need to fill the resoviour in the boot until it goes empty, unless the lines have been totally empty you probably won't need to bleed it that much.

Also, Auto Trans fluid is fine for the boot hydraulics and the transfer case as well. 1.8l in the xfer case. We use the castrol synthetic stuff, otherwise use any dextron 3 ATF.

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Sorry I'll put this in another post. I didn't read the bit about not asking questions in this topic till just now.

Edited by Pezhead

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bump for a great thread. helped heaps

Too bad the pics are gone though :D

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