Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1992 R32GTSt with rb20det at 140,000kms

4sp automatic

170.4rwkw @ 13psi

mods:

- rb25 turbo (series 2 with nylon compressor)

- HKS cam gears: inlet and exhaust

- walbro fuel pump

- 3" split dump/front

- 3" high-flow cat

- 3" cat-back

- boost controller 14psi

- high-flow air filter in stock airbox

- rb26 cams

- some kind of chipped ecu, not sure exactly what has been changed - this was done before any of hte mods

- FMIC with custom piping

- auto tans cooler

- 2800rpm high-stall (MV automatics)

- stage 2 shift kit (MV automatics)

Dyno graph below

post-2094-1157090601.jpg

1991, r32 GTS-T

Walbro

POD

Turbotech boost controller @ 12psi

FMIC

On DR Drift's dyno got 135.8 kilowatts. Was really lame, most of the 31's at the place beat me and to make it worse, he said my car was running perfect

Need...New...Turbo...

New turbo on so

Walbro

POD

Turbotech boost controller @ 14psi

FMIC

R34 NEO turbo

Remap by DR drift

460N.M. Torque, 170rwkw was highest run, dropped down to 167 because @ 170rwkw it had some minor detonation.

Pretty happy, hitting full boost at 4200rpm, fangs hard through to peak at 5800rpm, comes onto spool at about 3krpm

Edited by r32 gts-turbo

1992 r32 gtst

198.7 RWKW

707.7 N.M Torque

15psi

mods:

- trust tdo5/o6 turbo

- turbosmart 45mm external gate, with screamer

- 3inch to 3 1/2 inch exhaust

- front mount

- 040 fuel pump

- malpassi reg

- safc 1

post-24129-1153042634.jpg

1989 Type-M coupe.

stock AFM

stock fuel pump

stock injectors

stock turbo running around 0.85 bar

3 inch Xforce turbo back exhaust

JJR intercooler 600x300x76mm

KN pod filter

home made cold air intake

142.7rwkw on Dr.Drifts dyno at night at about 15 deg i reckon.

happy with that for minor mods.

1990 R32 gts-t 43000kms

R32 gtr fuel pump

Z32 afm

rb25 turbo s1 (leaking from compressor seal, pretty shagged)

monsta performance FMIC

apexi power intake pod

3" turbo back exhaust

blitz DSBC spec-r

dr drift dyno tune

156rwkw @ 1bar

Edited by salad

HKS GTRS on RB20 in R32 GTS4.

215rwkw at 18psi.

Mods are the usual:

HKS GTRS

HKS Type-S intercooler

Z32 airflow meter

Nismo 555cc injectors

Full 3" exhaust

K&N pod

Dr Drift remapped stock ecu

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Dr Drift boost controller

BTW: BP ultimate is way better than Optimax! :whistling:

The dyno chart shows the difference in response compared to my old R34 GTT highflow. You can see at 110kmh I now have 50rwkw more than before, which is an amazing difference in drivability on the street >_<

gallery_1619_111_139978.jpg

type m 32 gts-t.

3inch trust turbo back, stock cat

walbro 450pump

300zx single turbo huffin 1.1bar

apexi air filter,

trust fmic

made 196.something rwkw, then we backed it off to a better torque curve and made 192. something rwkw, expected e.t at the drags ??????.i would post dyno printout, but i duno how lol

List of engine mods

Apexi air filter

Z32 afm

FMIC

3' dump to 3.5' cat-back

GCG Hi-flow turbo

GTR Injectors

Bosch 040 pump

Sard FPR

Spitfire coils

Turbo smart 38mm gate with screamer (14psi springs)

Turbo smart E-boost2

I asked Glenn at hyperdrive for 300rwhp and after along run pissin around with things here's the result... happy boi, its really not as laggy as the dyno run makes it out to be!

post-7888-1154684098.jpg

1989 R32 RB20det 4spd Auto

115000kms

mods.

K&N panel filter

stock rb25 turbo

r34 side mount cooler

3" combined dump & front pipe

3" hi-flow cat

3 1/2" Jasma from the cat back

$22 boost controller 12psi

SAFC-1 tuned by HITMAN

219RWHP

post-16944-1154756370.jpg

1990 R32 Gts-t

95,000 kms

stock turbo, injectors etc..

FMIC

Pod

3" Turbo back exhaust, hi flow cat, 3" viken muffler

turbotech boost controller

bosch 040 fuel pump

ecu remap by dr.drift

14psi

169.2rwkw

no dyno pic as yet

comming soon

1990 r32 gtst

stock turbo, internals etc.

stock ecu

dump pipe

3inch exhaust

stock cat

k&n pod

stock fuel pump

no tune done that i know of

13psi

165.5 rwkw

very happy with it soon im going to remap ecu and get a bigger fuel pump

Edited by burnsie
  • 2 weeks later...

1992 R32 Gts-t

Stock Turbo, injectors, ECU etc etc

HKS Pod

3" Exhaust

Crappy intercooler (backyarder -> From japan :P )

Turbo tech Boost controller -> 9psi

And very recently installed Bosch 040 (Today :))

= 150.6 rwkw

171.3 RWKW @ 11psi

Standard RB20 Bottom End

RB25 Series 1 Turbo

Turbotech Boost Controller - 11psi

DrDrift Remapped ECU

R34 GTT Sidemount

3" Turbo Back Exhaust (very quiet/restrictive)

K&N Pod Filter with Heat Shield

Walbro 255 l/h Pump

D2 Fuel Pressure Regulator

dyno001.jpg

dyno002.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...