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R33S2

By R33S2,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted
wouldn't i go for bkr7es (or bcpr7es) for the colder plug? or am i getting confused?

Black soot would indicate a hotter plug is needed but you might not need to change the plug if gapping it down does the trick.

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R33S2
R33S2

I did a search and came back with 100+ results soooo... I know there are three different types of plugs Copper Platinum Iridium I have heard of gaps from 0.8 to 1.1 Platinum and Iridium last lon

Busky2k
Busky2k

$3.50 AUD ea or there abouts.

R33S2
R33S2

I deleted the neo plug in first post, as I could not find it on the nkg website, I've asked before but does anyone know what they are using in the Neo?, the $650 is for NEW stock coils in factory box.

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SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted (edited)
ahh yep i get it, so the plug is hotter to help burn off the soot, or another way, so its not a cool area in the cylinder for the soot to form on...

That is a dangerous game to play. I would say your plugs are sooty for different reasons, most likely just rich A/F ratios the car could be R & R'ing or could just have a rich idle (bung O2 sensor) or just be a normal rich running RB with upped boost.

If your car is in any way modified, I wouldn't recommend hotter plugs; standard 6's would be a minimum.

Edited by SKiT_R31
  • 2 weeks later...
Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted

just changed my ngk coppers (bkr6es-11's) to bosch fr7dp's (equivalent to ngk platinums gapped at 0.8) and the car is now drivable again. the coppers died after 5000km and on the day i changed plugs the car was barely drivable. was very sad.

still missing problems every now and then but that'll be the coilpacks, they're desperate for a change

  • 1 month later...
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted

I have standard copper BCPR6ES and the car misses a few beats at idle.

At higher rpms I could not detect anything unusual.

(running 14PSI)

Is it normal that the car misses a few fires at idle?

RB25DET

Thanks and sorry for being slightly off topic.

Cheers,

Andrew

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted
I have standard copper BCPR6ES and the car misses a few beats at idle.

At higher rpms I could not detect anything unusual.

(running 14PSI)

Is it normal that the car misses a few fires at idle?

if you're really keen to make it a bit smoother do a search, it's a pretty common problem but most people just leave it. first things to do are clean the iac and aac valves, there are diy's on them in the diy section...

but as said above, it's pretty normal

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
Posted (edited)
miss at idle is usually the ignitor getting tired, pretty common

Thanks guys .. I was a bit worried about the pops at low idle.

And to contribute something to this thread:

I am using these V-Line Spark plugs in my Skyline (on the right)

VLine

NGK on V-Line

I have no idea if there is any advantage to multi electrodes, but on my motorcycle it really made a difference.

(though I don't believe in Snake-Oil :verymad:)

And here's a link from NGK with some videos included (technical advice on installation):

NGK

More:

Edited by Torques
  • 2 weeks later...
Samuel Leonard Rising Star

Samuel Leonard

Posted
Posted

i've had a miss fire problem for months and just assumed coilpacks. hadn't even thought to change plugs. i'll just go copper so that's BCPR6ES right? RB20 running 7 PSI?i drive fairly tame 70% of the time. i bring it up on full boost probably only once or twice every drive. so that means i should go a hotter plug? or doesn't it really matter and i should just get the bcpr6es?

Galois Veteran

Galois

Posted
Posted
i've had a miss fire problem for months and just assumed coilpacks. hadn't even thought to change plugs. i'll just go copper so that's BCPR6ES right? RB20 running 7 PSI?i drive fairly tame 70% of the time. i bring it up on full boost probably only once or twice every drive. so that means i should go a hotter plug? or doesn't it really matter and i should just get the bcpr6es?

go bcpr6es-11's cos it's stock boost. 6 is a hotter plug, 5 is recommended. have a read of earlier pages in this thread, plenty of answers there

  • 2 weeks later...
KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted

After finally getting my FMIC return flow installed, it took me awhile to narrow down this thing my car is now doing. If you've ever had or driven a front wheel drive car with maybe old or spongy front shocks, you'd know the feeling when you are trying to floor it and hit bumps. The car kind of shudders a little and you can feel the traction slipping.

Now with my car I have a standard turbo running the ground boosting trick. What happens is when I put my foot down, there is for sure more power there, but there's also this feeling like the car is slipping or hiccuping. Could this be due to my Bosch Plats being gapped at 1.1?

I don't know where to start to go about fixing my problem, but at first I thought I was just imaging it, but after driving around more it's there for sure. Oddly I notice it more than I have the Overdrive ON. When it's OFF and I have the Power/Snow switch set to Power it still does it, but I think the increase in revs is helping to hide the fact I've got a problem somewhere.

So guys, where do I start to look at this problem?

SKiT_R31 Experienced

SKiT_R31

Posted
Posted
go bcpr6es-11's cos it's stock boost. 6 is a hotter plug, 5 is recommended. have a read of earlier pages in this thread, plenty of answers there

5 is a hotter plug, 6 is reccomended. 7 Is a colder plug and is more ideal if running more than stock boost imo. Also, a 1.1 gap is fine providing your coilpacks are in good shape, but 0.8 are what your supposed to run and will give you the least issues (especially if your coilpacks are getting old).

After finally getting my FMIC return flow installed, it took me awhile to narrow down this thing my car is now doing. If you've ever had or driven a front wheel drive car with maybe old or spongy front shocks, you'd know the feeling when you are trying to floor it and hit bumps. The car kind of shudders a little and you can feel the traction slipping.

Now with my car I have a standard turbo running the ground boosting trick. What happens is when I put my foot down, there is for sure more power there, but there's also this feeling like the car is slipping or hiccuping. Could this be due to my Bosch Plats being gapped at 1.1?

I don't know where to start to go about fixing my problem, but at first I thought I was just imaging it, but after driving around more it's there for sure. Oddly I notice it more than I have the Overdrive ON. When it's OFF and I have the Power/Snow switch set to Power it still does it, but I think the increase in revs is helping to hide the fact I've got a problem somewhere.

So guys, where do I start to look at this problem?

It's common for a missfire to clear in the higher revs, its definitely your gap, i would down it to 0.8. If you still have issues you need to source some new coil packs - you can happily gap down to ~ 0.6 but any lower and you start to really hurt your idle and light throttle/off boost.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted
It's common for a missfire to clear in the higher revs, its definitely your gap, i would down it to 0.8. If you still have issues you need to source some new coil packs - you can happily gap down to ~ 0.6 but any lower and you start to really hurt your idle and light throttle/off boost.

Ah ok. I still have my old Autolite plugs, so might clean them up, gap them to 0.8 and see if that cures anything. If it does, then I'll have a go at gapping the Bosch Plats. I don't want to damage them if it turns out it's not the gap, so the Autolites will be testers hehe.

KrazyKong Proficient

KrazyKong

Posted
Posted
bosch plats gapped at 0.8 are like $5 more than the 1.1's, well worth the dollars cos u dont have to risk damaging them

Where can you buy them from? I got mine from Repco or something for a 6 pack @ $38 or something. They only had the 1.1 gapped ones.

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