Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 286
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

very impressive solution shane. Are they equivalent pressure on the bearings as the standard girdle? what price?

thanks duncan, it's taken alot of hours and money to make it :(

im not sure what we'll torque the studs to at this point, thats something i've gota talk to mick about. would u reckon giving more clamping pressure on the bearings a good or bad idea? or would u say try and get near to std specs as possible.

it uses rb26 headstuds as the mainstuds aswell (couldnt find an M11 ARP the right length)

Price is $2000 including all nuts/bolts & a 3mm MS template to tap/recess the block

  • 1 month later...
hey shane what would you charge for a adapter like that?

for the girdle? with it fitted into a block thats been machined to suit, youd be looking around the 3k mark (including main studs)

i've got my machinist (different one to who machined the girdle in the pics above) quoting up on it so wont know definate prices til i hear back from him

also i would prefer to sell the whole block/crank/billet girdle as a whole machined to suit, rather than the girdle by itself, as there is ALOT of intrikit (sp) machining and measuring to be done to get it to fit properly

P.S im now getting the adapters done on the cnc out of alloy, so thats why i ahvnt gotten back to you about them yet, next week i will know pricing om them :D

which 4wd rb30 block? not sure how the patrol transfer case was handled, to be honest I assumed it did not have the front drive running through the sump (which is really the problem with 4wd vs rwd)

rb30 only ever came in vl commonwhore (rwd), r31 (rwd), patrol (4wd but different I'm 99$ sure) and some gas powered forklifts in jp.

rd28 was also 4wd like the rb30 patrol.

but in all cases I am pretty sure the 4wd sump wiith driveshaft and diff does not bolt on.

  • 3 weeks later...
I've finally got my billet girdle finished!

It has the adapter encorporated in it. This also means my 4wd adapter plates are good to go aswell :laugh:

girdle004zc7.th.jpg

girdle005qd2.th.jpggirdle006vc7.th.jpggirdle007ao7.th.jpggirdle008ep9.th.jpg

just thought i'd post an update:

the engine with this girlde had a turbo failure at the mid week track day and the motor has been pulled down.

the mains were looked at and there is not 1 sign of cap walk! ;)

  • 2 weeks later...
Hey boys has any one lowered the rb30/26 so the bonnet closes in a r32 gtr

meaning weather you spaced the xmember or modified the engine mounts

thanx in advance

hehe, grab the engine mounts from a LD28 powered laurelor R31 skyline station wagon, because of the deck hieght on the block the engine mounts are shorter,

the Rb30 was a australian only model in the r30, r 31 skylines and the last of nissan's 3l stocks were sold to GMH to power the 1987 holden commodore as this was a cheaper option then trying to engineer a new motor to come in under australia's exhaust emmisions laws as the 202 would never pass.

the patrol runs a live front axle this block could be used aswell as that from a vl or early skyline

3l gxe nissan station wagon for example.

the only major difference between the blocks of that era are the deck hieght and stroke,

i used the rb30 block and crankshaft from a vl, to replace the *$&%ed 26 block from my gtr

had the block honed and faces machined, the crank machined and balanced, oversized bearings, new rods and pistons.

everything pretty much was a straight swap, the sump, pick up , etcetc,....

ran fine still does now, however i had the problem of shutting the bonnet too.

it was an old retired mechanic who told me what engine mounts to try. i would have never have known other wise and probably would have had to get a custom bonnet made.

Edited by nizmonut
hehe, grab the engine mounts from a LD28 powered laurelor R31 skyline station wagon, because of the deck hieght on the block the engine mounts are shorter,

This is interesting! Any idea how much shorter they are? Obviously there is only so far you can lower it before the sump hits the cross-member, particularly once the 10mm 4WD adaptor plate is in there too..

Did you have to cut anything from your bonnet - or nothing at all? And are you running twin low-mounts still?

This is interesting! Any idea how much shorter they are? Obviously there is only so far you can lower it before the sump hits the cross-member, particularly once the 10mm 4WD adaptor plate is in there too..

Did you have to cut anything from your bonnet - or nothing at all? And are you running twin low-mounts still?

clearance is 2 parts of f**k all unfortunately

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Tha...Build/Diff2.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v315/Tha...0Build/Diff.jpg

  • 1 month later...

hi guys, not posted for a while.. after some advice as usual.. my rb26/30 has now done 2500 miles no problem whatsoever, but is under turbo,ed.

specs is as follow,

rb30 block decked bored to 86.5mm

spool rods, cp forged slugs.

acl bearings,arp bolts everywhere.

trust sump

1000cc injectors, twin in tank tomei fuel pumps.

hks drag 4" intercooler..

1.0 tomei headgasket.

jun stage one cams 264/272 9.7mm lift.

full extreme turbomanfolds kit using a gt35r 1.06 rear 4" dump

car made 680bhp 645lbs @ 5500rpm but drops off after 6500rpm,s

pm,ed leigh ref replacement kit as i have a buyer for mine.

thinking of going t4 flange and twin scroll.

leigh suggested gt4088r or 4294r

not sure what rears to use on either, or spooling times on either too?.

looking for 750-850 bhp @ the fly..with a good spool. :laugh::D:P:)

cheers bernie.uk

Edited by rockabilly
  • 1 month later...
just thought i'd post an update:

the engine with this girlde had a turbo failure at the mid week track day and the motor has been pulled down.

the mains were looked at and there is not 1 sign of cap walk! :D

Hey guys, just for your interest, mine was the engine with turbo failure (moral: always ask to see the receipts for "new" turbos). Just about to begin the process of running it in, should be having an early power tune next week. Will keep you posted as to what it ends up with. Running standard garret T28/40's, low mounted. For those thinking of the conversion from a gtr, its a very different beast to drive. If you like your car to feel light and punchy, imho stick with the rb26.

  • 3 months later...

i run one mate in a 33gtr . homebuilt done 5500 miles in it now no probs,. search my name for threads. currently its running 2.5 bar boost on a gt4094r blower about 800bhp @ the fly..bernie uk.

here,s my old turbo spec sheet.

http://www.spoolimports.com/content/Bernies700BHPGTR-UK.asp

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • 100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...