Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 months later...

How is this thread not a sticky? (or has there been a conclusion version of this added elsewhere to the site?)

I have just spent the last 2 weeks slowly reading through it at work, some really great advice and research.

I have one more questions to throw into the pot if people are still interested:

RE: Risk of flooding catch can via sump vents on hard cornering and running the sump dry:

  • Has anyone tried running a catch can vent from both the intake and exhaust side of the sump, I know that due to the rotation of the crank the exhaust side would be less affective but on cornering it would provide an alternative route for blow by instead of flooding the catch can and potentially running dry (or would a baffled and extended sump fix this issue anyway)

Baffled/trapdoor, extended sump and putting the -10 lines as high as possible on the sump will negate most of that issue. My oversize sump takes about 6.5L. I don't imagine I will ever have an issue.

  • Like 1

How is this thread not a sticky? (or has there been a conclusion version of this added elsewhere to the site?)

I have just spent the last 2 weeks slowly reading through it at work, some really great advice and research.

I have one more questions to throw into the pot if people are still interested:

RE: Risk of flooding catch can via sump vents on hard cornering and running the sump dry:

  • Has anyone tried running a catch can vent from both the intake and exhaust side of the sump, I know that due to the rotation of the crank the exhaust side would be less affective but on cornering it would provide an alternative route for blow by instead of flooding the catch can and potentially running dry (or would a baffled and extended sump fix this issue anyway)

The build up of pressure that need to be relieved seems to be more on the inlet side. My catch can is about 3L and by the look of it the max level would be about halfway and since I fill with 6L of oil I don't see it emptying the sump. And yes an extended sump with baffles and gates would be an added safeguard.

How is this thread not a sticky? (or has there been a conclusion version of this added elsewhere to the site?)

I have just spent the last 2 weeks slowly reading through it at work, some really great advice and research.

I have one more questions to throw into the pot if people are still interested:

RE: Risk of flooding catch can via sump vents on hard cornering and running the sump dry:

  • Has anyone tried running a catch can vent from both the intake and exhaust side of the sump, I know that due to the rotation of the crank the exhaust side would be less affective but on cornering it would provide an alternative route for blow by instead of flooding the catch can and potentially running dry (or would a baffled and extended sump fix this issue anyway)

I have two -10 fittings welded to the oil pan on the front right side of the engine (under intake manifold).

Since I'm single turbo I also modified the front factory turbocharger oil drain line (behind AC compressor on exhaust side of the block) with a -10 steel AN fitting as well.

I like your idea of tying the left side to the right on the vent for the catch can. But yes if you can go single you can free up another port on the exhaust side.

How is this thread not a sticky? (or has there been a conclusion version of this added elsewhere to the site?)

I have just spent the last 2 weeks slowly reading through it at work, some really great advice and research.

I have one more questions to throw into the pot if people are still interested:

RE: Risk of flooding catch can via sump vents on hard cornering and running the sump dry:

  • Has anyone tried running a catch can vent from both the intake and exhaust side of the sump, I know that due to the rotation of the crank the exhaust side would be less affective but on cornering it would provide an alternative route for blow by instead of flooding the catch can and potentially running dry (or would a baffled and extended sump fix this issue anyway)

I have done it on both sides for rb25. My setup mimics a rb26. My approach is very very differnt. But i have no regrets. Not one sign of oil at 28 psi beating it hard in corners and on the drag strip. I at the moment dont even have a hose attached to the valve cover, and not one sign of oil. Soon i will add a catch can Not returning to anything. I hope the photos help. c7ab85347bd2ec2ceef5c43a320dfd46.jpg787c0f37738719ebc381c8b761934f32.jpg61a6262a28b04c4b4f23b62f9527f535.jpgdd2628cfadcb8ee0c0a11737aba12f20.jpg
  • 3 weeks later...

just opened my R33 GTST late S1 (with S2 engine) to see that all oil feeds have a 1.5mm restrictor in! bought a 1.5 mm restrictor and had plans to block the middle but after seeing this I guess I'll just leave it like that and add a vent to catch can from sump

  • 4 months later...

Gday RB fans,

I'm relatively new to this forum, GTR's and also to circuit racing but have been running my R32 at Winton sprints for almost two seasons without a hitch. My engine has had quite a lot work done such as a bigger sump with wings, 3ltr catch can (located up front on driver side inner guard replacing the battery), cams, rebuilt head, bigger turbos etc. All work done by a GTR guru with 20yr experience. Bottom end is standard I think but "apparently" was new prior to buying the car. 400Kw at wheels.

I would like to do some bigger circuits such as Philip Island and Eastern Creek but have been told I must have a 2nd catch can or I risk the engine. Does anyone have any thoughts on why this is necessary and what might happen if I just go for it! Keeping in mind that I have not had any overflow from the current catch can or ever noticed too much oil pressure, except for when the engine is cold. When hot and at revs the pressure seems to run 60-70 psi and at idle 20psi.

I'm eager to get on some bigger tracks but prefer to finish the track days with the engine intact.

 

If you value your RB26 take the time to read a big whack of this thread - start half way through if you like and take your time and you will see what the consensus is.

3 minutes ago, KiwiRS4T said:

If you value your RB26 take the time to read a big whack of this thread - start half way through if you like and take your time and you will see what the consensus is.

Exactly what Bob said. 

I've pestered him in the past and the guy knows what he's talking about! :) He also sells excellent oil restrictors (very high quality) and has some sound advice that will likely save you a lot of $$$ and heartache. Not just brown nosing, but spend the time reading this thread and you will be a whole lot bloody wiser, thats for sure. I'm super confident with all my builds from now on, as basically it makes common sense to allow the thing to breath and drain well. 

 

(PS Bob, I expect high dollar kickbacks for the kind words! :P haha Jokes, I'm just telling the truth. ) 

Thanks Dave but have to give credit to Sydney Kid for kicking it off and then a number of people refined it with their own real life experiences until a pretty well defined consensus was reached as to what works best and why...

13 hours ago, GTR George said:

Gday RB fans,

I'm relatively new to this forum, GTR's and also to circuit racing but have been running my R32 at Winton sprints for almost two seasons without a hitch. My engine has had quite a lot work done such as a bigger sump with wings, 3ltr catch can (located up front on driver side inner guard replacing the battery), cams, rebuilt head, bigger turbos etc. All work done by a GTR guru with 20yr experience. Bottom end is standard I think but "apparently" was new prior to buying the car. 400Kw at wheels.

I would like to do some bigger circuits such as Philip Island and Eastern Creek but have been told I must have a 2nd catch can or I risk the engine. Does anyone have any thoughts on why this is necessary and what might happen if I just go for it! Keeping in mind that I have not had any overflow from the current catch can or ever noticed too much oil pressure, except for when the engine is cold. When hot and at revs the pressure seems to run 60-70 psi and at idle 20psi.

I'm eager to get on some bigger tracks but prefer to finish the track days with the engine intact.

 

I've had a look at your car at Winton a few times and judging by how you seem to be going there I don't think you'd have an issue at any of the bigger tracks.

My car is much more basic than your's and I don't have any issues. Changing gears before 7500rpm on the long straights seems to help with blow by.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
On 3/13/2014 at 6:54 PM, iruvyouskyrine said:

 

2hmqhS2.jpg

661b9f1b-8133-4ace-a4b5-50b5dcaaa0bf_zps

Looking at doing some track work with my 32r. Figured it would be important to do something about the oil issue in the rb’s while im swapping the turbos. It will be a standard motor with cam gears and arp head studs. Single turbo RB26 with about 300-350kw on e85. I will be limiting revs to 7k and only doing minimal hot laps at a time.

After reading through the thread and the hi octane article, this seems to be the ideal setup

  • ·         Extended sump with baffle
  •      Oil restrictors
  •      Oil drain enlarging with chamfered holes
  •      Cam cover baffle plates
  •      Oil/air separator
  •      Well setup catch can

The first three on the list are engine out jobs from what I understand.  I want to try avoid pulling the engine, so I thought overfilling the stock sump up to the hump on the dipstick and running an accusump would be good enough alternatives. Will also run oil cooler for temps and oil filter relocate for easy swaps. 

Looking at running an oil/air separator from the cam covers, which feeds to the catch can. The setup above looked like the best. Couple of questions in regards to this. Some have mentioned they don’t run sump breathers with e85. Is this just a myth or whatt? Also, would sump breathers (#3, #4) be able to be fitted to the sump with the engine still in the car?

Would this setup be pretty decent, or just a waste of time and money?  

Edited by Darmanin10

You dont need an accusump.

No idea what the fuel type has to do with the sump breathers which vent blowby via a route that is not the head.  But it is next to impossible to fit sump breathers with the engine in.  You can, if you try hard enough, remove the sump and leave the engine in.

It all depends on how much bother you want to go to.  If you leave the system as is you will get oil dripping out of the bov's and generally through your induction system.  If you vent the catch can to atmosphere you will probably get oil spread around your engine bay.  If your engine has a good amount of blowby you will definately get these things happening.

You have to fix it properly if you want to fix it and even then it wont be perfect.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...