Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

iruvyouskyrine
iruvyouskyrine

Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is s

fatz
fatz

less thinking more doing shit that works in the getto Dash ten on pasengers side Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up note

SimonR32
SimonR32

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can. This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stoc

Posted Images

  • 1 month later...
SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted

Has anyone seen or used mines cam cover baffles with no foam ?

i Have mines cam cover baffles but without foam (was like that since previous owner built the engine) and also my friends uncle imported a 34 Gtr from japan built by JUN many years ago and he said his was the same

pros and cons of this ? Should I be adding the foam in there ? 

Also im not sure if the stock metal gauze/mesh is in there either

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Well, obviously, if you have nothing in there to keep the mist in the engine the mist is going to flow to your catch can setup and you will have to deal with an increased amount of oil - whatever that "dealing with" entails.

They should have foam in them and if they don't they will still "work", for a given smaller value of the term "work".

  • Thanks 1
  • 11 months later...
Nate NRP Rookie

Nate NRP

Posted
Posted

Well.... Dyno just finished on my forged rb25det build. Fitted a blanking plug on the centre hole and left the other 2.

It now has noisy lifters above 5K rpm and gets worse as it revs. Oil pressure is spot on. My tuner said to never use restrictors in a hydraulic lifter head as he has seen this before... 

Lesson learnt, never take advice from this page without discussing with professionals.... FFS.... 

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
Posted
21 minutes ago, Nate NRP said:

Fitted a blanking plug on the centre hole and left the other 2.

I can't see that as a recommended option in "the table"

 

21 minutes ago, Nate NRP said:

My tuner said to never use restrictors in a hydraulic lifter head as he has seen this before

How does he explain why so many other people (including me) have fitted restrictors / blocked oil feeds, and haven't had noise problems?

 

 

Nate NRP Rookie

Nate NRP

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, GeeDog said:

I can't see that as a recommended option in "the table"

 

How does he explain why so many other people (including me) have fitted restrictors / blocked oil feeds, and haven't had noise problems?

 

 

Did exactly what it says on the table. Have you always been a flamin mongrel or do you still have bits of your mum stuck to you from birth? 

Screenshot_20190315-185603.png

GeeDog Experienced

GeeDog

Posted
Posted (edited)
8 minutes ago, Nate NRP said:

Have you always been a flamin mongrel or do you still have bits of your mum stuck to you from birth? 

 

Which part of the table did you follow? I can't see any of the options that say to leave the rear feed as is.

You'll make lots of friends here dude - good luck with your engine..... FYI my mother died a few months ago - so lets hope we meet up one day and I'll rip whatever is left of your mother off you, you fcking arsehole.

Edited by GeeDog
  • Like 1
  • Haha 3
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That table would probably be better with 1.25 restrictors instead of blocked off for the standard pump cases.  That would include the N1 pump, because it's really not that much larger (if at all) than a stocker.  Neos have the N1 pump, for example.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I used to sell restrictors and often for hydraulic lifters including my own RB30 with an N1 pump and external fed VVT ...think it was 2 x 1mm from memory but was years ago and my memory is fading.  Joe Kyle built the RB30.

  • 2 weeks later...
Darmanin10 Mentor

Darmanin10

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, I'm getting oil come out of my catch can.

Its a 2.6, which was just recently built, after spinning a bearing at the track with an inferior oil control setup (small hi octane catch can and overfilled sump lol). 

- 9l sump baffled, with trap doors
- 1mm restrictor
- Hi octane cam cover baffles
- 5l baffled catch can setup  (2x breathers from the head, sump drain, sump vent and a big filter vented to atmo)
- Nitto head drain
- Nitto oil pump
- Nitto crank collar, with crack tested crank
- Custom oil cooler setup

Now the issue is, I'm getting oil coming out of the filter on the catch can. This even happens on regular drives with a pull here and there. I cant quite work out why, as the catch can is a decent size, is heavily baffled and it even has a drain. 

I don't like the fact oil is spilling out. Is there an issue with the breathing of the engine, or is it just a problem with where the filter is located?

image.thumb.png.0d19682d8b4d9f49f584cc3d6313e403.png

Edited by Darmanin10
  • Like 1
R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted

To help you diagnose - try putting a vacuum/pressure sensor on the sump and logging it.

You might find it is being pressurized - hence oil can't get back to the sump from catch can or rocker covers and fills the can. 

Also (what I can't quite see) you have two breathers to the catch can, and only one to atmo?  Consider making this larger otherwise the velocity of air out can be high and drag oil mist with it.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

I was going to say the same things as R32 TT just did.  Pressure gauge hooked up to the breather vents, see what sort of pressure is in the system.  (OK, not same, similar.  He says measure at sump, and if the situation is bad the pressure down there will be higher than at top of engine).

As to the catch can, a single small vent to atmosphere may be restrictive relative to the volume of flow coming out of the engine and lead to pressurisation, high velocity through it and easy oil mist carry over.  The solution might be a 2nd catch can in series to try to give somewhere for the oil mist carryover to drop.  If that worked, I would plumb the exit back into turbo inlet to not breathe to atmosphere at all and the suction from the turbo would also help to reduce the back pressure.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

It looks like it should.  It's certainly more than double the XS area of the 2 main inlets, so it should be less restrictive than the pipework leading to it.

Doesn't mean that the whole package isn't just being pushed too hard by excessively large amounts of blowby.  Probably should check that, as described above.

R32 TT Mentor

R32 TT

Posted
Posted

One other thing to check.    Are you absolutely sure that you haven't slightly overfilled the sump?

If it is just a little too full, more than you need then suddenly you have the crank churning up oil and frothing it up.. that will sit up in the rocker covers and be pushed out - the aeration makes more volume, which is turn makes it worse and gets churned up by the crank more.

Try taking a litre out and go for a drive.  (watch you oil pressure obviously, but a litre shouldn't hurt)

That catch can exit looks like plenty I would have thought.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...