Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Ssq Bov = Car Stalling

twoquik

By twoquik,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

LatinR33 Experienced

LatinR33

Posted
Posted

Just sell the HKS SSQ as atmo bov's always cause problems. If you want sound use the money and buy a pod and put your stock BOV on and dont forget to heat shield the pod. No more stalling and you still keep the sound. its a win-win situation.

Kaido_RR Grand Master

Kaido_RR

Posted
Posted
Just sell the HKS SSQ as atmo bov's always cause problems. If you want sound use the money and buy a pod and put your stock BOV on and dont forget to heat shield the pod. No more stalling and you still keep the sound. its a win-win situation.

atmo bovs cause problems if you dont install them on right.

I have had 3 different atmo bov and have not had a problem with one of them (hks,apexi,blitz)

LatinR33 Experienced

LatinR33

Posted
Posted

Michael i think u have a very tolerant R33 which makes you a very lucky man. Many R33 have super sensitive air flow metres. The majority of the skylines dont have atmo bovs i have noticed. I wouldnt mind having a hks ssqv but its 100% atmo but unless ur running a aftermarket ecu or piggyback computer it would cause probs if its not stalling then u'll be running rich az and stuff your cat converter,black smoke out of exhaust and back firing. is it really worth all that i dont think so.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

any car that runs a AFM (Skylines!) cannot run Atmospheric wankerized, look at me, whoosh whoosh, fully sick, where are the chicks, Blowoff valves.

The Engine reads air.. Inserts fuel. The Atmospheric blow off valve dumps the air before it gets the the engine.

Put the stock one back on, or get a plumb back BOV.

The other option is to get a Powerfc DJetro with a MAP sensor and then put your spinny twirly whoosh chicks hurricane atmospheric BOV back on, and you'll be fine.

So yeah..

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

driving style also affects if it stalls or not.

I didnt have a bov for a while... i got used to hitting the accel & clutch at certain times so it didnt stall.

So you might have adjusted your driving style to minimise the problem

JnJ Experienced

JnJ

Posted
Posted

is it still stalling? check if there's any wind draft coming out where air is supposed to be released - the fin part. My friend's one was leaking before so we had to open it up and align the black face, the circle one. then just tighten the screws that hold it, after that it was perfect.

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

It amazes me the amount of people that think they can "fix" a car from stalling with an AFM and atmospheric BOV...

The only way to fix it is to plum it back..

There are a lot of people here that don't have a clue eh?

Fangz Collaborator

Fangz

Posted
Posted
Yep the mafia explained it nicely. I agree. Hey the mafia you have a awesome Pod set up I remember. If you have pics put them up.

i aslo agree with mafia, if u wanna make w@nk noises buy a wrx fully sic bro

in all seriousness if u want to make ur car run properly u need a plum back (turbosmart make a awesome black stealth 1)

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

I think this works with most cases....

take off the HKS SSQ, repackage it, and sell it to some WRX owner LOL

then...

go buy a Plump Back BOV of your liking or use the stock one..

too simple !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...