Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just a word of advice

take your steering wheel off

THe same bit you use to take off the airbag module under the console, is the same type used on the side of the wheel to hold on the horn pad. then its a 21mm nut under the horn

then disconnect the two connectors and yank it off.

Well just to be careful, when I removed my steering wheel, I disconnected battery, then hit the brakes, tried turning the headlights on, to drain any residual power left in the system, then gently unplugged the airbag control unit, then unplugged the airbag, and did the reverse to hook it all back up, hooray, no airbag error light after 5secs of the car running.

Well I didn't need to anyway, I have the new brake pedal box installed and the steering wheel back together.

This is a milestone for me as I've been doing everything at night with a hand held torch. I have many cuts and bruises now.

post-4352-1180436628_thumb.jpg

Well I didn't need to anyway, I have the new brake pedal box installed and the steering wheel back together.

This is a milestone for me as I've been doing everything at night with a hand held torch. I have many cuts and bruises now.

One of the hardest thing I found to do was removing and refitting the smallest part, the saftey pin on the brake pedal to booster rod.

lol, i just turned the car off, and unpluged the airbag.....i dont think ive ever unhooked hte battery for it

and no airbag light....cause there isnt wont

Do you mean there isnt one? Yes there is, middle of the dash in the centre of the speedo.

One of the hardest thing I found to do was removing and refitting the smallest part, the saftey pin on the brake pedal to booster rod.

That wasn't too bad for me. They hardest bit I found was getting that top bolt back into the pedal box. It took me about half an hour just to get that in. apart from that, I found that once you've undone all the bolts you can twist the whole steering column to get the bracket out of the way, and then the pedal box goes in really easily. I wish I'd figued it out while I was taking the old one out.... oh well, we live and learn

I got my clutch in the other night, but forgot to stick a picture up. I managed to install the master cyliner, then realise I'd forgotten to put the clutch line in, which wasn't possible to install with the master cylinder in. So out it came, I put the line in an then back it went. All one now, however the engine is in pieces and I'm short a turbo, so no gearbox yet :D

post-4352-1181129585_thumb.jpg

Well I know it's not directly related to the Manual conversion,but I got my new turbo in last night. First time it seems really hard, but if I had to do it again it would be so much easier now I figured out the hard bits.

I'm going to clean up the gearbox next, then next week some time book her in for a gearbox swap!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...