Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Has anyone installed the DEh-8500MP or DEH-850MP!!!!

I installed it yesterday but the outside bracket was too large to fit...does this mean i have to pull the headunit out further from the chasis so the frame can fit???

Thanks in advance

I'm guessing you mean the surround, around the outside of the unit? If you have a look, I had to redrill the factory bracket back about 10mm to get the whole surround to fit under the console surround.

Nice guide bruv! Just installed mine, how hard is it to throw in the pulsar tray?  What year Pulsar is it from? Is it a good fit? How much $$$? Ive just got an empty space there! Looks ugly as!!

Cheers!

I believe it was from the current model, it's just a standard Nissan part which they would use across all Pulsars I guess.

Has anyone installed the DEh-8500MP or DEH-850MP!!!!

I installed it yesterday but the outside bracket was too large to fit...does this mean i have to pull the headunit out further from the chasis so the frame can fit???

Thanks in advance

I had the same problem. I used a mini angle grinder to shave a few mm off each side of the surround and now fits perfectly.

nice tut - but here's what happened to me last week...

i worked out how to pull her apart myself - got it out and cut off the stocko JAP steareo connectors..

I used a test lamp to find the constant 12V and switched 12V, I then used a AA battery to locate speakers wires.

I hooked it all up using auto elect clips with crimp tool...

when I had it all up and going - the unit wouldn't light up!!! I have no idea why - all fuses are fine and there is power there (test lamped) - BTW, the colours are different to mine

  • 1 month later...

i got a a pulsar that i use for sound comps which currently has a sony XAV7W with DVD player as my head unit, kicker revolution 6 inch spilts kicker 6x9 and two 15inch kicker comp Vrs running via two Kicker 4 channel amps. Are these subs better suited to a ported/vented box or a sealed enclosure, as i listen to R&B music i like the deep sub bass style of the music to pump from the sub. WHICH SHOULD I USE?? SEND ME A MSG TO TELL ME

CHEERS

I'll post this on the forum rather than a message - the whole point of a public forum is to share knowledge (or lack thereof :thumbsup:)

With that sort of cone area, I would definitely put them in a sealed box. With two 15s you don't really need ported boxes to make big low-down bass.

If you're going for SPL though, a properly set up, ported box with give you the numbers. Keep in mind that with a ported box, because you have to tune the ports for a narrow frequency range, sound in that frequency range will be much louder than the rest of the range. If you play a sine wave from, say, 10Hz through to 150Hz, and you have your box tuned to 25Hz, the sub will be noticeably louder at 25Hz than at 50. Yes, you can 'tune' a sealed box to give better response at a given frequency range, but overall they are a much smoother, more consistent setup.

In a nutshell

Sound quality: Sealed

Volume: Ported

  • 4 weeks later...

Nice work mate, This is probably the most detailed installation guide i have seen......very neat

Ive actually got a kenwood double din in my 33 but it doesnt play CD R's

so im getting rid of it and just installing a standard cd palyer, so ill definately refer back to this guide.

Cheers!!!

  • 1 month later...

By the way the red/purple wire is luminance/dimmer. You can find the same wire on the cigarette lighter. Also im allmost positive that is the same deck (the one removed in the guide) that you will find in a 98 nissan patrol.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey,

great guide mate will use it 4 sure...

does ne1 know how 2 get the bak parcel tray out of these 33's so i can put better speakers in..just confused me and gave me a head ache...

Yep - you have to pull the back seat out (do a search, I think there is a how-to on that somewhere), and pull the grilles off the speakers and remove the child restraints. Between the speakers there are a couple of clips, my preferred method of getting these off is to slide my hand under the parcel tray carefully (palm up) and feel around until you find the clips. Once you've found them, get your fingers as close to the clip as possible and push up until it pops out. Don't push on the clip itself because it'll probably push through the weak fibreboard parcel tray. Repeat for the other clips (mine has a total of three if I remember correctly). Then just pull the parcel tray out.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...