Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How much? Would I fit in one? Is it easy to die in one?

well, like most things you can spend small or big. Yes, you could fit in one. Most of the good guys in superkart are over 30s, and some have a bit of extra meat on them, and seem to cope ok. Unlike the smaller kart classes a bit of extra weight doesn't give you the huge disadvantage as you have gears and power to help with that! plus it seems to be that the prime factor is the size of your nuts.

Tyres are cheap and last a few meets, fuel is negligable engine rebuild is not huge either. Plus the only thing quicker around EC is an F3 car...

i'm sure it is quite easy to die in one. karts have no brake lights (the only form of land based motorsport that doesnt I think) and i'm not sure if they run seat belts or not. But Karts are easy to repair if you bend them.

Adam, next round of the state champs come out with me and we'll check them out. It's amazing how quick they are for so little money. And mostly if you buy second hand it will come with a small trailer, stand etc.

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=5792

in ur budget but race only :S

This looks pretty sweet. good power for the money: http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=6136

A bit over budget tho :P

Edited by JaFF

if we are getting up my105 adds then this could be a go-er:

http://www.my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=6096

possibly even be able to register it again if you wanted to. 4AG 20 valve with close ratio box beats the shit out of most $10K cars...

The only time I went to wakefield, they had a group of gen 1 swift gti’s for one of those track days where they give you a car and an instructor in a track car.

They were stripped and caged.

And they were screaming.

Failing that..

86-88 corolla 1.6L twin cam.

Any gen Starlet turbo you can buy for the price.

I think the Gen1 (88 model) starlet is about 750kg..

Look like this..

ep71_starlet-320.jpg

Gen 2 – 850kg?

11005392020000000121.jpg

90-95 model)

Gen 3? – 900kg?

16046401.jpg

96 - ?? model

They have 100kw stock.

Whiteline have a suspension kit for it that I believe SK from here helped put together..

$5K on the motor will have it running 12’s so imagine it on a track.(that money gets you turbo, cooler, pump, injectors, ecu and tune.)

Strip the interior and it’s even lighter.

Brakes can be upgraded from a celica gt4. but at the weight it is, you won’t need to.

I just did the most implusive thing... I bought that ex-race/rally TX3 Laser that Adam linked too earlier on !. Got it for next to nothing as it needs a fair bit of work and is out of rego.

It's a 1988 Tx3 turbo - 4WD. What model is this KC / KE ???

It's got the original 1600cc turbo motor - has been rebuilt 40,000 kms ago. It also has a re-built gearbox not so long ago - got receipts for this. So the Engine and gearbox seem good. After driving (on private property of course, the engine seems strong and gearbox doesn't crunch or anything)

Car came with race (rock hard) coil over suspension. By the sounds of the rear - there is a fair bit of rattling around - so I think all the suspension bushes etc need replacing.

Being ex rally, I think the centre diff has been locked - as the tailshaft is out and runs in FWD mode. Car came with the tailshaft - so might have to get a new centre diff to get the 4WD working again.

Engine is controlled by a Haltech ECU - it hasn't been tuned for cold start so it takes a while before it idles nicely.

Wheels are Simmons - 15" I think - they seem in good nick.

Seats are racing type and will need to be replaced for rego (if i ever get it to that stage)

I got this car as a project for myself - I'll put it back to road worthy bit at time.

I'll be in the market for some bits and pieces so I'll keep my eye on the classifieds here.

I'll post some pics later.

Cheers,

B-Man

I'd go with Roy with the Mk1 Escort, I had a coupe set up for rally years ago and theyre a damn fun little car, bit hard too find these days because people like me kept munting them into rocks and trees :(

Guess a bit more looking around and you might be able too lay your hands on a SSS 180B for about 1-2k at the most for a decent-ish one. Leaves a lot of money for spares and fiddling. Plus its a 180B, no one ever suspects the 180B :P heh!

Owned both, had me a lot of cheap fun and thrills in them.

Edited by MK2

most datsuns would be good. you can buy complete bolt up kits (engine mounts, gearbox mounts, etc) to fit a sr20det into them for about $1000. 1600's are popular for putting sr20's into. if you want rwd, you can fit an sr20 into geminis, sigmas (mate has a 12.56 second sigma with a stock sr20 in it, just has a problem with diffs breaking), escorts, datsuns.

a gemini with a v6 commodore motor in it would be good fun too.

or a datsun 1600 with a worked L20 would be good fun. they rev to 9000rpm without any problems. my mate with the sigma also has a worked L20 2.2L stroker sitting under his house that is good for about 190hp. he's a mechanic by trade, and built it up for his borthers 1600, whcih they then put the sr20 thats in his sigma into.

what a small world hey Brendan.

I buy a car from you, then you go buy a car which I owned about 6 years ago.. LOL..

I had that car registered with those seats and harnesses.

Yes the suspension is damn hard.

But if you get that 4wd working again, it does turn pretty well..

Front brakes are from a VL turbo just in case you need to replace bits.

It has no cat.

And when I had it, it was running on SUPER .

The haltech has been repaired before. It had a crack in the board.

I hope it’s been tuned since then cause it had a few problems after about 20 minutes of driving.

The injectors when I had them were some bosch items which were same as some 944 turbo Porsche.

It had no bov

The turbo is a stock ihi rbh5 hi-flowed.

Clutch was a 5 puck ceramic button clutch.

I can ask my mate if he still has the roll cage for it if you like.

But it was a proper rally purpose cage.

Oh Sweet - ! How funny !

I figuerd he cat thing ! :rolleyes:

I can't work out what model Haltech it is ! And how to tune it ? Does it need software ? It does need a bit of a tune - Cold start is crap.

What's the ECU adjustment knob thing ? Ray told me air/ fuel - but I find that hard to understand.

It needs a bluey - so not sure if seats will pass.

Hand brake is hydrolic - so might need some work for bluey.

Also might need to hide the brake bias adjuster.

Something is draining the battery when switched off - thought is was the fuel pump (seems to be on all the time - so that needs rewiring to ignition)

Man - it has some awsome potential - but whoever worked on it recently has done some dodgy stuff :wave: ha ha ha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...