Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there allsorry to hear bout Steve was great guy, "He will be missed." I just have a quick question about when a skyline burnouts. I have a 95 r33 gts-t and I want to know what gear is the best to do a burnout in 1st or 2nd. Its completely stock and whats the length the burnout should go on for it you fang it real hard also when you are driving it really hard when shiftinh from first to second if u hear a little screeching of the tires does this mean the engine is runnin well and would you normally hear tht same little burnout when shifting from 2nd to 3rd or is this just a 1st and 2nd thing remember its a completely stock skyline. Is this normal? Andif it isnt tell me wht is please. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133447-performance-question/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey if a car cannot handle a redline dump and burn for atleast one set of tires then you didnt build it stong enough...

LOL

I busted my old clutch at willowbank doing a 3rd gear burnout... The crowd loved it, I was really impressed. But whats most impressive is that i did it in a controlled enviroment.

what you want to do is get your right foot completely sideways so it's across all 3 pedals. have them all nailed to the floor, then start by sliding off the clutch abit, now you're doing a burnout, use your left foot or knee to nudge the gear stick into second, as the smoke builds ease your right foot further along so now your just on the gas and powering along with a nice smoke trail. then you will have performed the perfect burnout. it will take some practice. give it a go and let me know how you get on with it.

You other threads are

Oil pressure while thrashing a car:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=132579&hl=

Is High RPM bad for the gearbox.motor or whatever:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=132577&hl=

Now your asking about the best gear for a burnout?

Are you serious mate?

By the three threads of yours so far, it seems you are one of the reasons we enthusiasts are being targeted.

I suggest you re-asses the reason your purchased the car

I remember years ago in a ff&r* a turbocharged pulsar SSS where the journalist said that he did a standing start 5th gear burnout, which i dont really think is possible, you may need get an r34 gtr 6 speed if you want to beat that.

*I do not endorse the reading of FF&R

maybe he is asking for the drags? for warming his tyres up.

Depends if you have an auto or manual.

Auto - Put it in 1, mash the brake with your left foot, stall it up, slowly release some brakes until the car is just about to start moving forward, your wheels should be spinning by now, release brake when desired.

Manual - Put left foot all the way in on the clutch, dial up some revs with the right foot, either slip off the clutch or dump it, quickly put left foot on brake to stop you moving forward, spin all of first and then quickly shift into second (fast as possible to avoid moving forward or loosing revs) and then continue with foot on brake in 2nd. When you want, lift off the brake and forward you move.

yeh, need hellavalot of power to start them in 2nd gear :(, ive seen a guy do it in a pretty much stock supra before, but i got no chance in the line, modified as it is. Was a struggle hitting it from 1st to 2nd, whilst keeping the wheels spinning stock, haven't tried recently, performance tyres +90kph not moving = about $50 of tyre every 10 seconds =( Lucky i get free tyres from dunlop/goodyear i suppose

Speaking of rooted clutches, is mine shagged if i cant hit it into 3rd from 2nd whilst still spinning? My mates got a property up at diamondcreek, and even on wet pavement, i couldnt hit it into 3rd, it would just rev out like it was in neutral, bummed clutch or to-be-expected?

How do school kids find this site? Shouldnt they be buying a gemini or cortina for their first car. At least it would be one less import to be wrecked.

thats better for us more parts to pick out from hehe LoL

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...