Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Gearbox Into R32

lwboosted
 Share

Recommended Posts

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Yeah, both front and rear uni's look to be beefier than the ones on the 33 tail shaft. Rear one is rebuildable, front one isn't.

If you think 575 was pricey, I was quoted up to $1200 from other places.

I have a 33 speedo drive which i have adapted to the back of a 32 speedo face, in the process of jury rigging it atm to see if i can get it working before hacking up the back of the dash. If i cant get it, then the navara drive goes in. Only concern then is physically fitting the cable up to the drive as there isn't much space in there.

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
Yeah, both front and rear uni's look to be beefier than the ones on the 33 tail shaft. Rear one is rebuildable, front one isn't.

If you think 575 was pricey, I was quoted up to $1200 from other places.

I have a 33 speedo drive which i have adapted to the back of a 32 speedo face, in the process of jury rigging it atm to see if i can get it working before hacking up the back of the dash. If i cant get it, then the navara drive goes in. Only concern then is physically fitting the cable up to the drive as there isn't much space in there.

$1200!!! Made of carbon and balanced to 400kmh??? Far out some people think they can have a lend.

I guess mine did have problems at first, and in the end they had to pay to put the better unis on not me, which I would have had no problems paying in the first place, but as they say thats the way the cock flops.

BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well after a week of mucking around with the r33 cluster and then an s13 one just in case the 33 one was cactus i grabbed a 32gtr drive (thanks risking) and used that.

The shaft is about 10mm shorter than the VL/navara unit so that you get away without removing the key way. and the bottom section of the gear is a nice interference fit over the splines requiring the bench vice to press the gear on. I just chucked a bit of loctite on the splines before installing.

I found that i also had to cut a new slot but only about 120 degrees around, rather than 180 as booster suggested.

Also bashed the bottom edge of the tunnel a bit to give a straighter shot at the drive for the cable.

Has anyone had cable failures due to the tight bends? or has anyone gotten a replacement shorter cable to suit the different drive position?

Edited by BHDave
dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
How much would a mechanic charge to fit a r33 gearbox into a r32?

Thanks

Well, my total conversion cost about $3400... But that included the box and a jim berry clutch, and the one peice tailshaft, not that that cost much more than getting the standard one modded.

So say minus $1400 for the box $1200 for the clutch, mine cost $800 or so, inc the tailshaft, and a few misc bits. But thats also removing the existing box, and he had never done the conversion on a cefiro, so there was a little experimentation time.

  • 2 months later...
lwboosted Rising Star

lwboosted

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i went to nissan today they dont make the r33 speedo cog anymore, or the whole drive!!! and they dont make the navara pinion assembly with the 21 tooth cog..

does any1 have a spare r33 pinion assembly? or are any others the same? i only want the cog off it!!

my tailshaft only costed me $100 i used my r32 tailshaft and just put the yoke off the r33 tailshaft on it..

  • 2 weeks later...
BHDave Grand Master

BHDave

Posted
Posted

Tried it, couldn't find the info on how it's wired, wasn't lucky enough to guess it.

r33 speedo has 4 contacts on the back, one positive, one neg, and what i think is a signal in and a signal out. The speed sensor is a hall effect from memory which means both wires will give a signal, provided the other one is earthed. So through educated guess you can figure what has to go to the dash. Without tracing wires through an r33 you don't know what has to happen in between, which was the point i decided it was all too hard.

The dash requires butchering to fit the 33 speedo mechanism. it's a harder job than chopping off a cog and sticking a the 25 one on there

  • 1 month later...
=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
Posted (edited)

So to round up the three pages what steps or items are needed to do this conversion?

Longer size bell hosing bolts, what sizes?

Tail shaft with R33 yoke, whats best or cheapest, custom one peice or mod the stock R32 one?

Cluch slave. Does anything need to be done to the bearing, housing or clutch fork?

Without going into debate, is there one setup for the speedo drive that has worked without trouble?

A custom cross member, anyone have a pic of theirs?

Slight change of trans tunnel shape, pics?

thanks

Daniel

(starting to sound like its gonna take me more than a morning to do this)

Edited by =premo=
SirRacer Experienced

SirRacer

Posted
Posted

I found a place in NZ who does a replacement part to convert the r33 box speedo to suit r32

I spoke to him today and mentioned Navara parts and he said he didnt use them yet mentioned it was genuine nissan and they had never had problems.

75 NZD and www.dodsonmotorsport.com

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...