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I have been fixing parts on my R32 GTR to get it where i want it to be. I just completed dropping the subframe, installing the noltec rear subframe bushes, bilstein rear shocks and hicas lock bar, along with removing all the hicas stuff from under the car and engine bay, then installing the tomei interceptor to my hicas light doesnt stay on.

Now for my question, im going to fix the front end of my car now, i need to replace the front shocks, machine discs and install new pads but when i was doing the hicas i noticed the front left cv boots are both split. I bought new CV boots from a local supplier (15 instad of nissans 70) but i need a quick run through of how to do them, i know i need a deep 36mm impact socket to undo the large nut. from there do i pull the cv out the front diff or not? Any help/tricks appreciated as im sure i can work it out but its always much quicker if u know exactly what to do.

Thanks

PS i done a search and didnt find anything to help.

Edited by GTR1993
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135865-r32-gtr-cv-joints/
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  • 5 months later...

YES I KNOW THERE ARE SPELLING MISTAKES I WILL EDIT THIS LATER WHEN I HAVE TIME AND ALSO ADD PICTURES FROM THE MANUAL

Hello everyone i have now recived 2 PM about owners wanting to know how to fix cv boots. I am by no means an expert but this is what I have done to fix them.

TAKING THEM OUT

post-29334-1174219692.jpg

FRONT LEFT

On the R32 from going through the manual it seems the left can not be "pulled" out of the diff, there are 6 bolts that connect the CV to a long shaft that goes into the sump to the diff. undo these 6 bolts. Now on the steering hub (where wheel bolts to) there are TWO bolts that connect the lower ball joint to the hub. Undo these here as its a pain in the ass to get the ball joint out of the lower control arm, when they achive the same thing. Next you must undo the 35mm nut that is on the outer end of the CV drive shaft (there is a split pin etc that must be removed before you can unto this nut)

FRONT RIGHT

I have not done this my self but there isnt the 6 bolts to undo this side, it seems if you gently lever it out of the diff it will pop out. It is help in by a C clip inside the diff on the splines of the shaft. It should pop out if u use a block of wood and a lever. The rest is the same.

REAR LEFT AND RIGHT

Both pop out of the diff, the manual shows 2 screwdrivers being used as levers to get them out. Or alternativly they have the 6 bolts on each side so you can take these off how ever you want. There is also the 35mm nut but this is all straight foward. You will have to undo some of the suspension arms to have sufficient room to swing the cv shaft out.

CLEANING AND DISSASSEMBLY FRONT

Now the shaft is out you can clean/replace your boots. On the outer boot cut the 2 metal straps that hold the boot on and cut the boot off. With the cv shaft in a vice tap on the outer CV end away from the shaft, it will take a bit but it should pop off (also held in by a c clip) If the boot has just split (ie no crap in the grease) get the grease tube supplied with the cv boot and scweeze it in where the shaft was, this will push the old grease out, wipe the old grease off of the out side and replace in reverse order remembering to put the boot on the shaft before you put the cv back on.

At this point if you need to do the LEFT FRONT INNER it isnt a cv as such its a sliding element with 3 bearings. BEFORE you put the outer cv back on the shaft if you push the shaft towards the centre of the car (i know its not in the car but its so you know the direction) a thin metal plate (PLUG on diagram) will pop out (when you look at it you will know what im on about) now you can slide the shaft out of the inner sliding element thing clean grease and replace the boot. Now put the outer back on.

If you are doing the front left the sliding element will just pull out, rather where the left had to be pushed out the other way.

post-29334-1174219720.jpg

Rear CVs are actual CVs inner and outer, with in inner being able to slide in and out.

post-29334-1174220228.jpg

If the CV is full of crap like mine were you will have to dissasemble them and clean them. When you have knocked the cv off the shaft you are ready to begin. There is a a inner star with 6 balls, around this is a cage, and then the outer cv part its self. You will notice that there is 2 slots int he cage that are larger then the other 4. You can rotate the inner star around and remove the 4 balls from the smaller holes first, then the larger 2(this is from the manual to do in this order). Once these are out in you move the cage around you will see that you can actually remove it by aligning the larger holes with the outer cv and it will slide out, again onve the cage is out with the star still inside it moving the star so that it alignes witht he 2 larger holes (they are opposite each other) the star can be taken out of the cage. From here it can be degreased and reassembled in reverse order. You must rember the orientation everything goes, it would even be good to rember in which place the balls go just in case there is any uneven wear.

post-29334-1174220535.jpg

Edited by GTR1993

ive done too many of these now. I just matched up the outers and right inner with a univerial boot kit pretty easly but the left inner was a bit hard to find in Canada so I just use a S13 rear boot for the left inner. It looks funny and is a bit longer but works just fine :P

  • 3 years later...
  • 2 years later...

I realise that this is an old thread however great work Alex (GTR1993). For anyone doing this job, we keep genuine boot kits on-shelf and they can be purchased from our website using the following links:

Drive Shaft Dust Boot Kit (Front Inner, Left) - Genuine Nissan - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR / GTS-4, R33 GTR / GTS-4 & R34 GTR 25GT-4 - $77.00

Drive Shaft Dust Boot Kit (Front Inner, Right) - Genuine Nissan - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR / GTS-4, R33 GTR / GTS-4 & R34 GTR / 25GT-4- $77.00

Drive Shaft Dust Boot Kit (Front Outer) - Genuine Nissan - Nissan Skyline R32 GTR / GTS-4, R33 GTR / GTS-4 & R34 GTR / 25GT-4- $77.00 & Common to LHS & RHS

*Pricing correct at time of posting

If anyone would like further details don't hesitate to ask.

  • 1 year later...

I just did the front LHS of mine (C34 Stagea S1). The outer boot I purchased from synergery mototrsport (s225 is their part number) but the inner I matched up with one from Repco, part no 100-013. It is a tripod type. I will tackle the other side soon.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

No you do not need to change them both; but it is much cheaper and easier to do it while the drive shaft is out if you have any doubts about the outer one. eg $150 to change one boot or $160 to change both including R&R....

  • 3 years later...

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