Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTR's this is never an issue though they don't seem to have a problem...

I disagree, there is a master cylinder stopper around that's around ~$80 or so, it looks like it will help with the initial soft pedal feel.

My pedal has no issues once you start pressing it but at first its always soft...

I disagree, there is a master cylinder stopper around that's around ~$80 or so, it looks like it will help with the initial soft pedal feel.

My pedal has no issues once you start pressing it but at first its always soft...

If you visualise how the brake master cylinder stopper helps.... ie. once you have pressed the brake pedal hard enough that the firewall is flexing and the master cylinder can stop that flex..... you'll see what I mean that it can't help with the initial soft pedal.

If your r33 gtr is properly bled with good fluid etc and nothing is wrong with the master and you think its soft you'd be disturbed by how bad ABS equipped gtst's and s14-15 feel!

If you want to sell your brembo's let me know :down:

I recently bought a Cuscu master cylinder stopper. NFI is right in that it does ot change the initial feel, but it did make it feel better under heavier braking. At $80 second hand it was worth it, though it does nothing for the initial feel.

Get someone into your car hand have them put their foot down very hard on the brake - you will see your master cylinder step out a bit (mine was about 1cm). If you have them step on the brake pedal and hold it mid way down to simulate 'initial feel' you will see that the cylinder doesn't move at all.

If your r33 gtr is properly bled with good fluid etc and nothing is wrong with the master and you think its soft you'd be disturbed by how bad ABS equipped gtst's and s14-15 feel!

If you want to sell your brembo's let me know :)

They have been bled a couple times to try and get it right, its always got a little soft feel at the start, haven't driven a GTST, maybe I'm too fussy :(

Only selling the brembo's if your offering even better brakes for the same price :)

The point above about the stopped making no difference to initial brake feel is interesting, I thought it would do something there....

well i just bled the abs ask suggested and i dont think it has made a difference at all

(haven't driven it yet)

but i saw no bubbles so thats good enough for me

will just put up with it and maybe upgrade master cyl eventually

My 32 GTST brakes feel light for I'd say 1/8 of its total travel but with good pads that light area also is very grabby. When jumping out of the Commodore in to the Skyline that light area and its extreme grabyyness is a little annoying when pulling up to a stop as it causes you not to brake smoothly.

The pedal then quickly but progressively goes wood hard and gives very good pedal feel to stop a wheel or two locking under hard brakes.

Running Feredo Pads, Nulon brake fluid - non-ABS.

The commodore on the other hand provides a good firm pedal through the whole of travel but when braking hard the pedal squishes reducing lockup control but really its no biggie as by that time the ABS does its thing, the Commodore also has a master cyl brace standard.

Edited by TheRogue

The description of repairing the master cylinder looks pretty straight forward in the manual (attached). I called Nissan and the rebuilt pieces are $180 dollars as you get the rubbers and the pistons as a set. A new complete master cylinder costs $643.

Has anyone come across a rebuild kit that is cheaper than $180?

Brake_Master.doc

If that's $180 from Nissan I'm sure you can get it cheaper elsewhere. For example, the OEM master cyl is $420 delivered from RHDjapan.com This is for a genuine OEM master for an R34 GTT.

The problem is labour involved in rebuilding is about $300. For me the master cylinder isn't a major issue as all it's doing is making the brake sink slowly when pressed in ..about .5cm every 10 seconds. This doesn't bother me at all. What bothers me is the mushiness and initial travel of the brake pedal..

  • 2 months later...

I am back on this topic. I now have braided brake lines all round, RBA slotted rears with Bendix standrad pads, machined Nissan 296mm rotors rotors up front with QFM 550 pads and a Cusco master cylinder stopper. All-in-all I am happy with the braking performance of the car - it brakes well!

Given that I think that the braking is good I am now focussing on feel - my braking 'feels' crap. I think this is becase I need very little pressure on my brake pedal to start braking which does not firm up most fo the way through the pedal. I am thinking that I need to harden the peday up. There are two ways I have thought of to do this. 1. Change the spring in the pedal increasing the resistence against me pushing down or 2. remove my brake master which is a harder job and requires me to get some extra bits but will also save me space and weight.

Has anyone considered these before?

  • 3 months later...

nismo braided lines

motul rbf600 fluid

qfm a1rm pads

brake cylinder stopper

- just did lines and fluid today

still soft pedal. master cylinder is the next step. What exactly would an upgrade be? GTR cylinder?

  • 3 months later...

Just found this thread (after making my own about same thing...)

I had the single-piston calipers from standard on my 32 GTST & had awesome pedal feel right from top of pedal.

Then fitted R33 4/2 pot calipers & although they pull the car up good, the pedal feels like it goes about halfway down before anything really happens...

So when the engine was out recently I fitted the 33 master & booster but still have the exact same pedal feel!

Doesnt seem like anyone has solved this problem?

  • 1 year later...

R32 GTR 92 model

Upgraded to GTR R33 Brembo calipers and had them fully serviced by PBR before install

New DBA Rotors

New Braided lines

New QFM45 pads

High temp quality brake fluid

I have the stopper

Occasional driving for the last month or so.

No feel at all for 50% of the pedal travel and spongy thereafter before comming on. But it stops.

Pumping several times helps a bit

I have now had it Bled twice by a Brake shop and no difference.

I;ve read the whole thread and gained some knowledge.

Where to now guys - Master Cylinder, Booster, both ?

Silly thing is that the brakes were fine prior to the upgrade :(

No feel at all for 50% of the pedal travel and spongy thereafter before comming on. But it stops.

Pumping several times helps a bit

I have now had it Bled twice by a Brake shop and no difference.

I;ve read the whole thread and gained some knowledge.

Where to now guys - Master Cylinder, Booster, both ?

Silly thing is that the brakes were fine prior to the upgrade :(

There's probably still air in the system (you too SS8 and wlspn). Did they bleed the ABS unit? FWIW the order should be;

Left rear brake

Right rear brake

Left front brake

Right front brake

Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car)

Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall)

Arghhh the bastards.

Did front left, rear left, front right, rear right and no ABS - Grrrrrr

Been back twice. I'll think about getting them to do it again for free

PS. Thanks MrStabby

I'll post the result.

I keep old brake pads for use when bleeding brakes after I have ripped everything off and broken lines.

Throw the heavily worn pads in and bleed the brakes. The pistons will be well out of the caliper. Once you have bled the brakes I remove the worn pads... crack the bleed nipple with a hose on it and push back the pistons all the way into the caliper. I bet you see bubbles

I then install my new pad on that side of the caliper and repeat for the side that still has the worn pad. Once you have pushed back all the pistons and have your new pads in then crack the nipples again and pump some fluid through.

You will find when installing new calipers etc that there is air at the back of the pistons. When you bleed brakes you are bleeding between the master cylinder the the nipples on top of the caliper. if there is air behind the pistons or downstream of the nipples it isnt comign out unless you stroke the pistons all the way out, fill the backs with what fluid you can with bleeding and pumping and then with the nipple cracked push the pistons all the way back into the caliper. Any air will come out the bleed nipple with the flow of fluid rather than back up the lines to the master.

Feel free to post blank cheques to me when this fixes your problem. :thumbsup: if it doesnt do the trick then apologies for making you jack the car up and fluff around with fluid all over your hands etc...farking dirty, messy brakes can be bastards to bleed some times >_<

"There's probably still air in the system "

Issue resolved:

Cause: Air in the system - Brake & Suspension Shop put rear calipers on the incorrect sides thus mounting them up side down. ie: bleed valve at base (air rises!).

ACT Brakes took less than a few minutes to identify this, 20 mins to remedy, then bled in the correct order and the ABS was bled as per recomendation in this thread.

Brakes work great for the street on the existing BMC :)

however to make it even better I'm putting on a new BM57 (17/16) to suit :D

Which I orderd just in case.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Lesson - check the obvious and mark the calipers FR, FL, RR, RL. Perhaps in brail for the blind

Shoulda checked the DIY's and done it myself. I'm such a lazy bastard.

I could forgive a mistake by a new apprentice and the subsequent visit fixed BUT

3 visits to the brake specialists and the owner of the shop doing the test drive afterwards saying "geez mate that's not good - I dunno whats wrong".

Check the internet for a solution.

Serious? Paid mechanics installed calipers upside down ? Fark me there are some thieving muppets out there who have no clue about anyting other than taking peoples money off them :whistling:

+11ty. How can anyone who runs a shop be so casual about their customers safety? Unfortunately, I've become very used to this quality of service and level of competance...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...