Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know there has be much talk about fitting air flow meters into larger diameter pipes etc - However I would be interested to know if there is a modification that can be done to the electronics of the AFM in order for it to see more airflow before it hits 5.1v. I know MINES sold modified RB26 AFM's... just wondering if it is something that could be cost effective for the home "electronics" hobbyist to attempt. Wanted to have a shot at the air flow meters on my GTR...

I know the Z32 / Nismo upgrade has proven to be reliable and effective - however I would love to hear some opinions on this more "invasive" approach?

Cheers

Steve

Edited by Antimatter

This is one of those questions that no-one wants to answer 'cos no-one really knows enough about it. It's a hard question. There are alot of variables, aerodyamics and physics involved.

The Z32 is the same diameter as the RB25 MAF, but will detect a faster airflow than the max detectable airfolw of the RB25 MAF. his gives it a higher "resolution".

You cant get more resolution from the RB25 sensor, however, you may be able to bring the airspeed down so that the airflow through it is in it's readable range.

Something off the top of my head is to make the tube around the sensor bigger to slow the airspeed past the sensor down. You would need to cut the sensor out of the tube it's in and glue it into a larger one.

Another - put a difuser infront of the sensor. A problem wit this method is that there are a lot of variables that can change like occilating windspeeds caused by eddies that a difuser would make.

These both need to be tested on a bench.

A resistor wouldn't work, as it would just take from the resolution of the sensor.

Can't think of anything else...

Hey Chrissso

Thanks for your feedback - however my "very limited" understanding would make me think that buy decreasing the AFM resolution - you are in fact increasing its capacity to flow flow more air before it reaches peak voltage - I guess my question is would the modification be simple (ie a resistor somewhere in the electronics) or more complex (like replacing the hotwire element or substantial modifications to the circuit inside the AFM). Or perhaps somewhere in between...

please dont flame me to hard though - I really do only have just enough electronic knowledge to get me into trouble...

Cheers!

This is one of those questions that no-one wants to answer 'cos no-one really knows enough about it. It's a hard question. There are alot of variables, aerodyamics and physics involved.

The Z32 is the same diameter as the RB25 MAF, but will detect a faster airflow than the max detectable airfolw of the RB25 MAF. his gives it a higher "resolution".

You cant get more resolution from the RB25 sensor, however, you may be able to bring the airspeed down so that the airflow through it is in it's readable range.

Something off the top of my head is to make the tube around the sensor bigger to slow the airspeed past the sensor down. You would need to cut the sensor out of the tube it's in and glue it into a larger one.

Another - put a difuser infront of the sensor. A problem wit this method is that there are a lot of variables that can change like occilating windspeeds caused by eddies that a difuser would make.

These both need to be tested on a bench.

A resistor wouldn't work, as it would just take from the resolution of the sensor.

Can't think of anything else...

my understanding of putting a resistor in:

the problem with putting a resistor in is that the afm will still hit 5.1v, but the ecu will think it is lower. the voltage won't actually go any higher.

the only real way to do it is to make it so the hot wire doesn't have as much air pass by it, e.g. have a tube that lets air bypass the afm. to do this you would need to have an aftermarket ecu and to tune it on the dyno, and hope that the amount of air bypassing the afm is always the same as what you tuned it to be.

what about a small hole drilled in the tube behind the sensor? that would slow the flow past the sensor and is reversible. You could also pipe it to a gate valve that can vary the flow.

I have heard of tripping the afm ,higher Voltage.(Japan)

But the tuners in Australia do not want to work out all the figures to enter into the Ecu after they have done this...........all of them think it is a waste of time.

When you send a higher voltage through the unit the tables all change and each point needs to be re-mapped.

This is my understanding and why Z32's are so popular with tuners...easy put in and tune. :O

The power that is pushed through the AFM is not 5.1V but by memory 5.7V but do not quote me on

the exact figure though could be 5.9V.

So then each figure on the air/flow map changes , by memory I was told that this ment

the AFM could read 1.4 times more air movement .

So then they would read the map previous, and work out the AF/ratios they need to enter on the new map.

Which ment each figure on the map had to be worked out and entered in to the ECU.

I am not sure how they actually increased the voltage though.

Just was told they did :O

what about a small hole drilled in the tube behind the sensor? that would slow the flow past the sensor and is reversible. You could also pipe it to a gate valve that can vary the flow.

Essentially, this is diffusing the flow. Any tube or constriction is difusing the flow.

It might cause alot of turbulance. Need practical bench testing to see if voltage versus flow is stable and accurate everytime.

The tripping is something else I was thinking of, however, couldn't quite get my head around. It makes sense.

As with the remapping, the maths will have to be done for any method of increasing or redistributing the resolution of the MAF.

Resistor will not work. You can lower the voltage output, (or maybe even input to the maf) but the MAF will still only read a maximum amount of airfow.

We know that through a given size of tube, the airspeed will be constant for the volume of air constantly flowing through it.Therefore we either need to increase the resolution to read a higher airspeed, or decrease the airspeed per volume of air (bigger tube). Or possible slow the air around the sensor down. This may not work however due to turbulance, and the result maynot be a linial rereprisentation of the original graph (the later may not matter)

Thanks

all these things are well and good. and will work.. I have even tried using resistors and changing the diameter of an AFM and I can tell you neither are a viable solution...

Why?

The problem lies in the way the ECU reads and references the voltage. This is called a VQ map and is a 128 load point map in the ecu and is callibrated to the AFM.

Once you change the diameter of the afm or modify it the VQ map is no longer a true representation of what the AFM is doing.

BUT THAT IS WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO DO!!!! i hear you say. yes you are trying to get higher resolution at higher flow. bit what you are actually doing is feeding an unknown comodity into the ECU.

Both the PFC and remapped stock ECU have the ability to use SET VQ maps. eg: Z32 afm, Q45. these maps match the AFM you are using so the ECU knows exactly what is going in.

If you change thediameter of the AFM you no longer have a predictable callibration table to work with when tuning

all these things are well and good. and will work.. I have even tried using resistors and changing the diameter of an AFM and I can tell you neither are a viable solution...

Why?

The problem lies in the way the ECU reads and references the voltage. This is called a VQ map and is a 128 load point map in the ecu and is callibrated to the AFM.

Once you change the diameter of the afm or modify it the VQ map is no longer a true representation of what the AFM is doing.

BUT THAT IS WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO DO!!!! i hear you say. yes you are trying to get higher resolution at higher flow. bit what you are actually doing is feeding an unknown comodity into the ECU.

Both the PFC and remapped stock ECU have the ability to use SET VQ maps. eg: Z32 afm, Q45. these maps match the AFM you are using so the ECU knows exactly what is going in.

If you change thediameter of the AFM you no longer have a predictable callibration table to work with when tuning

There is a formula to work out true values when this mod is done...its just that it involves work for tuners....so they opt. out.

If one tuner did the calibration after the higher voltage...this could be used in all the other cars after that.

We are the stupid ones that think by the Z32 and thats it.....especially for a gtr that needs TWO.

There is a formula to work out true values when this mod is done...its just that it involves work for tuners....so they opt. out.

If one tuner did the calibration after the higher voltage...this could be used in all the other cars after that.

We are the stupid ones that think by the Z32 and thats it.....especially for a gtr that needs TWO.

100% true. but usually it is cheaper to buy a $300 unit than pay a tuner another couple of hours.

Well working automation...sensors are typically 0-5V and 4-20mA. I would be very surprised if they drive a signal mcuh past that range as it would ber very difficult to integrate into the hardware, Sure the code and software may be fine, but the hardware may not like the higher voltages. ????

An AFM upgrade is pretty cheap and simple. I understand its cool to tinker, but engien tune is one thing i would not suggest you tinker with. Tune is the end all be all of your car

Well they must do something special in Japan as i have seen some funny things done.

E.G 800HP GTR with stock twin 2 1/2" Air Flow Meters, chipped ECU.

another 700HP GTR with a single 3" Air Flow Meter probe plumbed in after the intercooler.. Single..

So there must be something you can do to change the resolution of the AFMs. Must be some big secret.

I think it has less to do with the AFM and more to do with the fact that they shove the lambda up the bum, and tune for WOT off that. ?????

Also, isnt there something in the PFC software that allows you to change the range/scale of load points ???? Is that somehow related???

I know I am at 5.1v at about 5000rpm on my GTR - tune becomes 2 dimensionsal after that....

Seems to work ok as my AFR still hovers around 12 all the way to rev limit and driveability is very good... I am just looking for an "outside the box" approach to giving the air flow meters more capacity...

I am really grateful for everyones opinion!

I think it has less to do with the AFM and more to do with the fact that they shove the lambda up the bum, and tune for WOT off that. ?????

Also, isnt there something in the PFC software that allows you to change the range/scale of load points ???? Is that somehow related???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For these last 7 years of ownership, I've always had to use a small scissor jack under one of the front tow hooks to raise the front just enough so my low-profile jack fits under to reach my subframe jack point. I'm beginning to get annoyed of always having to do this. Are there any lower low-profile jacks that fit under the gtr lip on a dropped car?
    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
×
×
  • Create New...